2018 commuter?

[Osiris3006]

Hey guys, my wife currently has a stock 2014 SHO with around 122k on it. I have the ability to buy a 2018 SHO with 80k on the ticker. This car has a tune from AJP, gearhead IC and turbos, catless downpipes, 170 stat and a 3 bar sensor. I drive around 90-100 miles a day 70-80mph cruise control. Do you think this would be a decent and reliable rig for my journey? I am not overly concerned with mpg, but this car does consistently get 23-24mpg on the hwy at that speed. I know the history for the last 50k miles as it is my father who owns it and did all of the work.


Thanks!

 

[Joshw0000]

Hey guys, my wife currently has a stock 2014 SHO with around 122k on it. I have the ability to buy a 2018 SHO with 80k on the ticker. This car has a tune from AJP, gearhead IC and turbos, catless downpipes, 170 stat and a 3 bar sensor. I drive around 90-100 miles a day 70-80mph cruise control. Do you think this would be a decent and reliable rig for my journey? I am not overly concerned with mpg, but this car does consistently get 23-24mpg on the hwy at that speed. I know the history for the last 50k miles as it is my father who owns it and did all of the work.


Thanks!

My 2012 doesn't have upgraded turbos or intercooler but it does have several bolt ons and a 93 octane tune. I've driven it daily for the past 6 years with only a few issues that are common with this car (water pump, torque converter, and power steering). If you're confident that it hasn't been abused, it should be fine to drive daily. Just keep in mind that you should budget for those things for both cars if they haven't already been replaced.

Note - power steering is less common. I guess I'm just unlucky.

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[Osiris3006]

My 2012 doesn't have upgraded turbos or intercooler but it does have several bolt ons and a 93 octane tune. I've driven it daily for the past 6 years with only a few issues that are common with this car (water pump, torque converter, and power steering). If you're confident that it hasn't been abused, it should be fine to drive daily. Just keep in mind that you should budget for those things for both cars if they haven't already been replaced.

Note - power steering is less common. I guess I'm just unlucky.

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How many miles are on your car? I will likely put 40K a year on this thing and I am hoping to get to the 200-250k without anythning major (engine) ect. My wifes car is in need of the electronic power steering box as well.... lucky us!

 

[Joshw0000]

Mine is just shy of 130K now. It had 59K when I got it. I'm more OCD on maintenance than most so I feel confident it's just a 'thing' with these cars.

Research the cost on the torque converter and water pump. Neither is cheap. And you've already realized the price of that power steering. If you can stomach those costs, this is a great / dependable car.

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[kryptto]

If the car is tuned - someone loved it and took care of it hopefully and didn't beat the crapola out of it. With tuning - cars can achieve better MPG over stock, the whole point to tuning them. No one will say they aren't dependable - however costly to service and maintain properly.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Can't speak on the tune side but I've driven mine 60 miles daily for over a year now plus 2 eastern seaboard trips up i95. Only failures were age related and common. Frustrating and expensive but anticipated. But it has its own reward, for a commuter with everything these cars offer there isn't one better. My commute is split city and highway, adaptive cruise out on the long stretches and massaging seats for being stuck in traffic with enough power to have some fun passing. If you can be okay with her needs she'll reward you right back and you'll be happy you did it.

 

[Shadow351]

I daily my 2010 and at 278,000 miles I haven't experienced any *major* engine issues, but it is all stock, no tuning. My commute is only about 30 miles tho.
-You should probably expect to replace the turbos at least once by 250k. I had to replace the front turbo a second time because the impeller nut came loose on the Ford Reman one i bought. That was really disappointing, i expected better QC for OEM parts.
-Mine is on it's 3rd set of injectors *although* I'll note the 2nd set was a used salvage yard set because money was tight at the time.
-I had the transmission gone through at around 250k but the transmission shop talked like it probably only needed a torque converter. These don't have a serviceable filter so a transmission spill and fill should be added to a regular maintenance interval.
-I did timing chains/water pump/oil pump just before 200k. (And I have an intermittent startup rattle again, so it sounds like I'll probably need to do them again before 300k)
-I've done Suspension & wheel bearings in all 4 corners
-Before you buy, check for rust, specifically where the front 2 bolts of the rear subframe mount to the body. I'm in the salt belt so depending on your location, may not be a problem for you.

 

[kryptto]

Before you buy, check for rust, specifically where the front 2 bolts of the rear subframe mount to the body. I'm in the salt belt so depending on your location, may not be a problem for you.

Keep this top priority

 

[Osiris3006]

Yeah that car has been meticulously maintained so I am not too worried about that. Looks like 3k for torque converter? I haven't found a price on the water pump but I assume around the same? Doesn't seem to be too bad, and if I am just cruising the hwy I would think those parts would last a while anyway.

 

[kryptto]

Yeah that car has been meticulously maintained so I am not too worried about that. Looks like 3k for torque converter? I haven't found a price on the water pump but I assume around the same? Doesn't seem to be too bad, and if I am just cruising the hwy I would think those parts would last a while anyway.

Water pumps can be 4-7K and go - should be changed at 100K

 

[Joshw0000]

Yeah that car has been meticulously maintained so I am not too worried about that. Looks like 3k for torque converter? I haven't found a price on the water pump but I assume around the same? Doesn't seem to be too bad, and if I am just cruising the hwy I would think those parts would last a while anyway.

I think I averaged around $1500 each for water pump, torque converter, and power steering. Give or take a few hundred for each. For all 3, I don't think the driving habits make much difference. When it's their time, they go out.

The car is tons of fun. It's hard not to do a hard pass when someone is slow or to be the first one off the line at a green light. You'll enjoy it.

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[Osiris3006]

Water pumps can be 4-7K and go - should be changed at 100K

So just plan on changing the pump at 100k? Does that lower the cost to do it before the chain breaks or does it stay the same?

 

[kryptto]

So just plan on changing the pump at 100k? Does that lower the cost to do it before the chain breaks or does it stay the same?

Look - many will tell you to wait - I say get in there and replace everything at that time to avoid the eventual stretch of the chain or related maintenance parts. Its also perfect timing before spotting the issue. You could manually keep checking the weep hole, but if others are doing your oil changes that might not be happening. I do things preventatively - so my advice is on the side of caution. If you dont catch the pump going, it can be catastrophic instead of just scheduled maintenance.

Doing it at 100K - becomes a planned expense, one missed sign its starting to go - now the engine is trash, and not worth a thing.

 

[Osiris3006]

I think I averaged around $1500 each for water pump, torque converter, and power steering. Give or take a few hundred for each. For all 3, I don't think the driving habits make much difference. When it's their time, they go out.

The car is tons of fun. It's hard not to do a hard pass when someone is slow or to be the first one off the line at a green light. You'll enjoy it.

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Pretty sure I am going to pull the trigger on it. Can't beat it for 15k lol

 

[Osiris3006]

Look - many will tell you to wait - I say get in there and replace everything at that time to avoid the eventual stretch of the chain or related maintenance parts. Its also perfect timing before spotting the issue. You could manually keep checking the weep hole, but if others are doing your oil changes that might not be happening. I do things preventatively - so my advice is on the side of caution. If you dont catch the pump going, it can be catastrophic instead of just scheduled maintenance.

Doing it at 100K - becomes a planned expense, one missed sign its starting to go - now the engine is trash, and not worth a thing.

Makes sense. That is what I was looking for and agree with you on the preventative thing. Way better in the long run. Thanks!

 

[kryptto]

Brad at AJP should have all your tuning info.

 

[Osiris3006]

I have a livewire hanging around my office, any reason to run that as a set of gauges? What would you all monitor if you did?

 

[kryptto]

Intake Air Temp - Boost - transmission temp - battery health - coolant temp

 

[Joshw0000]

I have a livewire hanging around my office, any reason to run that as a set of gauges? What would you all monitor if you did?

I keep a TS+ mounted in mine displaying boost, battery voltage, temp, intake temp, and a few others. I set alarms so it'll flash red if anything is outside of my desired ranges.

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[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

I use forscan but I recommend boost, voltage, and fuel pressure. Boost (I use map at TB) to monitor turbo or intake issues, fuel to monitor....fuel, and voltage because a drop in voltage can mean charging or ground issue and can explain odd behavior of systems. with your transmission concerns you can monitor trans temp and tc % to keep an eye on things