2013 SHO Coolant Leak

[996twint]

I bought the car used, so no lemon law. If you pressure test the cooling system, would it definitely show coolant in the oil? Original work order states coolant leaking but nothing wet on the ground. I told the service advisor what I read about other people's SHOs and I wanted them to check the water pump as my powertrain warranty was ending.
Dealer is saying that they pressure tested the system after changing the hose and it was fine when it left. I asked them if there is no external leak, how did they know it wasn't bad when it went out. They said they checked the oil dipstick.
Anyway, Ford was no help, they didn't want to hear my story. Dealer is only willing to discount $400 off the $2500 but I'm not willing to pay anything.

 

[SHOdded]

If you want to fight it, you will need a lawyer to advise you if you have enough of a case. Otherwise start looking for used engines at car-part.com.

 

[Jeff2017]

Sounds like they are trying to screw you over. Might want to have lawyer contact them. I think you have a case.

 

[996twint]

I'll contact a lawyer after I deal with the hurricane coming through.

 

[luigisho]

If you want to fight it, you will need a lawyer to advise you if you have enough of a case. Otherwise start looking for used engines at car-part.com.

I agree with this. They will not budge without legal pressure and,, there is a chance you get a remedy from them- but they will fight like **** not to. I would prepare for either outcome.

Maybe leaking coolant without external signs and then checking the dipstick is normal routine, but I'm not sure that is enough analysis to determine it's good to go vs catastrophic engine damage if it is leaking internally. I would be super ****** if I pointed out the failures owners have been reporting and they blew it off ...and it ended up fragging my motor. I feel for ya dude. You did everything you were supposed to do.

Get to high ground. Maybe take your SHO to low lying areas??? Hydrolock can wreak havoc on a motor...Just sayin

 

[marius883]

Good luck with Fords service department, never had good luck with them either. Found this thread because I was driving home from work yesterday, and saw the temp gauge jump up pretty high, then back down again.

Checked my coolant reservoir this morning, and low and behold the coolant is way under the low mark.
Probably got the same issue you got, water pump.

Looks like it’s time to trade her in, can’t afford to sink anymore money into this car, with 103k on it.

 

[luigisho]

If there is no external coolant leak then hurry up before it won't move and you won't get anything for it

 

[SHOdded]

Check cooling fans for proper operation prior to doing anything else. Does the A/C blow warm at idle/low speeds but great at 40+ mph? That would be the problem right there. But if you never smelled coolant and you are sure it was at the top of the COLD FILL range quite recently, odds are good it has leaked out the weepholes or (gulp) into the crankcase. Check the oil!!!

 

[996twint]

I'm still fighting with the dealer to get mine covered under warranty. Still talking with Ford customer service before I go the attorney route.

 

[marius883]

Check cooling fans for proper operation prior to doing anything else. Does the A/C blow warm at idle/low speeds but great at 40+ mph? That would be the problem right there. But if you never smelled coolant and you are sure it was at the top of the COLD FILL range quite recently, odds are good it has leaked out the weepholes or (gulp) into the crankcase. Check the oil!!!

Funny you should mention that, yes my A/C does exactly that, and the heater too. Blows hot when idling or at low speeds, gets cold as I go at speed.
Started a few days ago.

 

[SHOdded]

New fans time.

 

[996twint]

Another question related to my service nightmare. When I got my car back when they changed my transmission, there was a creaking noise from Driver's side front wheel, when I brought my car back in along with my unrepaired coolant issue, they diagnosed it as the control arm.
Would that be affected if they installed the transmission? It wasn't making the noise when I brought it in before the transmission replacement.

 

[SHOdded]

I don't see any mention of the lower control arm needing to be touched, but they could have. May be they need to retorque every bolt they touched during the assembly/disassembly process. In some cases, we have seen them cross-threaded (!). OR due to age, once linked parts are taken apart, they just do not go back together right. Bushing wear or actual metal wear around ball joints or fasteners.

 

[Original_Savage0]

Funny you should mention that, yes my A/C does exactly that, and the heater too. Blows hot when idling or at low speeds, gets cold as I go at speed.
Started a few days ago.

I know this is old but I have the opposite issue right now. I know it’s winter so it takes a while to get cold but the heat stays cold until I get to higher speeds and then it heats up. As soon as I came to the next stop or stop accelerating, it cools back down? Anyone know what the heck this is about?

 

[luigisho]

My truck used to do that when I had a small coolant leak. Once the level got low enough it didn't produce heat until the circulation kicked back in during acceleration. This probably occurs to a lesser extent with normal amounts of coolant but is pronounced with lower levels. Easy to do quick check.

 

[Original_Savage0]

My truck used to do that when I had a small coolant leak. Once the level got low enough it didn't produce heat until the circulation kicked back in during acceleration. This probably occurs to a lesser extent with normal amounts of coolant but is pronounced with lower levels. Easy to do quick check.

I did notice it low recently so I’ll go through and see if I can find any leaks. Today is one of those I wish I didn’t live in Upstate New York in the middle of the winter because I do not have a garage

 

[SHO-moco]

If not low on antifreeze could be a restricted heater core. Dont wish that on you tho. Can try back flushing it see if that helps with flow at idle. When off idle at speed the water pump is spinning faster creating more pressure, which can then push through the restricted heater core, giving you more heat. If flushing it doesnt resolve it there are guys that talk of filling the heater core with CLR and letting it sit over night then backflushing again. But if you decide to try that look for the automotive/aluminum safe version of CLR.

 

[luigisho]

If the coolant is leaking enough to make it go cool/cold at a stoplight Just a level check in the plastic coolant tank should give you an idea. Any other restriction as mentioned in above post could possibly do this.