2013 Front Struts

[GreenGemNYC]

Early last month (December), I brought my car into the stealership because of a sound in the front end I couldn’t figure out. Long story short, I needed inner tie rods, rear brake pads, rear driver bearing, and both front struts. Within 2 weeks, I was hearing the same clunking sound when I’d give the wheel a quarter turn either direction while stationary, and I brought it back, new struts again. Now, after another few weeks, the same sound is back but worse, and when I go over speed bumps at low speed, I get a loud hiss from the front end. Brought it back again, and new struts being put in again.
Anyone else have this issue?
And does anyone think I’d be within my rights to ask for some sort of refund from the dealer since i had to bring it in 3 times in about one months time for the same issue?

 

[luigisho]

you getting charged for struts each time? something is defective unless you are smashing into big potholes at speed

 

[GreenGemNYC]

They charged the first time since my car is out of warranty, but warrantied the parts both times it’s been back. And I live in NYC, I’ve been on dirt roads smoother than the streets here, but I haven’t hit anything fast or hard, nothing out of the ordinary.
The real kicker was the tech at the dealer the second time it went in trying to tell me the scalloped tires caused the struts to fail within two weeks.

 

[luigisho]

Usually bad suspension parts cause tire wear like that. Haven't heard of the other way around. At least not that fast. I've never seen anything work that fast. Maybe someone else has experienced this?

 

[GreenGemNYC]

Right, i know the bad struts casued the tire cupping, but there’s physically no way for the tires to cause suspension damage. I’m wondering if anyone’s had this issue with front strut failure

 

[SaveMelMac]

Did they check the strut mounts?

 

[Hebes10]

Right, i know the bad struts casued the tire cupping, but there’s physically no way for the tires to cause suspension damage. I’m wondering if anyone’s had this issue with front strut failure

Could also be from worn out tie rod ends. Are they putting the correct struts on the car? I believe there are A,B,C,D suspension codes.

 

[GreenGemNYC]

Could also be from worn out tie rod ends. Are they putting the correct struts on the car? I believe there are A,B,C,D suspension codes.

Well the inner tie rods were replaced when the first replacement struts went in, as I recall, so that might do it, but doesn’t explain the next two times failing. I didn’t know about the different suspension codes, where would I find that?

 

[SHOdded]

Inner tie rods? Thats a bit of work. Outers are easypeasy. Control arm bushing failure can create clunks, as can sway bar bushings. If you see unexplained fluid leaks, it could be the motor mount.

A little thrown off by the hiss sound tho, unless there is a loose clamp on one of the turbo hoses.

 

[6500rpm]

****See post #6. Did they replace the turn plates (mounts) on the top of the strut, the entire strut asm as a complete unit, or just the strut? Ford had quite a bit of problems with the turn plates a few years back, usually it was pretty obvious when you disassembled the strut. Also known for bad sway bar links.

 

[GreenGemNYC]

So I picked up the car last week, and it was almost closing time so my service advisor kind of rushed through getting me my keys and out of there but his explanation was, that on the strut mount, there was an extra bolt (what?) that every time I hit a bump, that bolt was hitting the top of the strut and damaging it until it punctured. Does that sound ridiculous to anyone else? I’m going back to the stealership today to demand some more answers because this is now two ridiculous explanations of struts going bad way too soon. First telling me bad tires caused the new struts to fail within two weeks (BS), and now telling me an extraneous bolt caused the damage so they removed it (why was it there in the first place?)

 

[SHOdded]

Wow.

 

[GreenGemNYC]

Wow.

Exactly. I guess this is what i get for taking it to a dealership in the first place, but none of that makes any logical mechanical sense to me.

 

[6500rpm]

That's the craziest thing I've ever heard. If you actually take the time to go there, I'd have him show me exactly where the mystery bolt was. For the life of me I can't even phantom what he's talking about. I happen to have a Taurus in my bay now, think I'll put it on the lift and see if what he's talking about is even possible. If they warranted it, you could ask to see the failed part.

Edit-after looking at the car in my bay today, the only "extra bolt" I can see him reference is that the Taurus has 4 bolts on top that attach the strut to the strut tower where most cars commonly use 3. Unfortunately for his explanation, those bolts are no where near any actual part of the strut, and certainly not the gas charged area. In actuality, there is nothing even close to the strut asm anywhere.
Also, I wanted to ask if they aligned the vehicle on an alignment rack after replacing the steering components? You said the tires were scalloped. That term to me indicates a saw tooth pattern or feel as you drag your hand across the tire surface from inside to out (or vice versa). Saw tooth tire wear is an indication of toe angle being incorrect and is one of the fastest tire wear angles. It also needs to be set after replacing inner or outer tie rod (ends). Shade tree is done with a tape measure, proper is on an alignment rack. Cupping is a completely different wear pattern, and is typically caused by bad struts/shocks. Cupping is uneven, high low spots around the tires circumference.