2013+ brake upgrade

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Sho_Ride

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Sorry to beat a dead horse guys as I know I’ve read older threads dealing with this very issue but I want to be sure before I pull the trigger on this purchase. I have a 2011, still not 100% on whether it’s PP or not. I have upgraded front brakes to 2013 specs already and now I need to do the rears. Is it as simple as the front upgrade where I just ordered the 2013 caliper with bracket, rotors and pads and they just bolt right up?
Automotive stuff.com is now selling the Power Stop S-5466 set for $154.86, a couple of days ago it was $225.00 so I want to take advantage of that if I could.
I know I’ve seen some bad reviews on Power Stop but I’m pretty sure most people just weren’t happy with the rotors and pads they sell, which I will not be getting from them. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

One more question about this. It a pair or remanufactured calipers, is there much difference between power stop or any other brand of remanufactured calipers?
 
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mrhighcaliber

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It's exactly the same. I done a few of these conversions.


13+PP and non pp components are completely interchangeable and are the same size. All of them. ROTORS, PADS, CALIPERS, ETC.

Difference:
PP Pads are Semi Metallic
Non-PP pads are Ceramic

PP Calipers have Drilled pistons and High temp Orange silicone seals.

PP Abs calibration is tweaked

These are the only differences.

(I figured I would throw this in because people think there are different rotors sizes for nonpp13+ vs pp13+. This is false)

On my personal 2010, I got the power stop rear calipers (against my better judgement and distaste for their rotor metallurgy). I have genuine motorcraft PPs on the front.

Red calipers, pretty huh? Installed them, went to bleed them. And the piston dust boot on one side exploded with brake fluid. Why? Upon inspection, the internal piston bore seals were never installed!

I sourced a seal and repaired it. Been fine for 2years. But I won't be purchasing anything else from them.

Im sure they're remans. I
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Sho_Ride

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Thanks for the info. This all started after I tried to replace all the seals and rings on the original caliper. I took off the assembly for the parking brake and while trying to get the parts inside to slide out that whole unit came out in pieces. I noticed a couple of ball bearings on the floor and all the other parts were on the table. After trying to find out where the bearings are supposed to go and how many are supposed to be inside, took it to a mechanic to put back together. I’m just not confident that the caliper will work properly and with the roads I drive on I’m not taking that chance.
 

Sho_Ride

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So I got the calipers ordered and Searching for rotors for the 2013+ there are several sizes from 13” to 13.9”. What gives?
 

mrhighcaliber

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So I got the calipers ordered and Searching for rotors for the 2013+ there are several sizes from 13” to 13.9”. What gives?
The 2010-12 are
12.8 front
13.0 rear

The standard sel13+ are the same.

Now,

13.9 are sho front

13.7 are sho rear

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Sho_Ride

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Can’t find 13.7” but I found several 345mm or 13.6”. I assume it’s close enough for rock and roll. I am grateful for the help and I don’t mean to be picky over 1 mm but I didn’t buy and modify my sho to race a 1/4 mile or from street light to street light. I did it to race around the hills with all the blind curves and narrow tree lined roads that are everywhere by me so I’m just worried about being able to brake as well as possible in this pig rather than flying off a cliff. I appreciate your input!
 

mrhighcaliber

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Can’t find 13.7” but I found several 345mm or 13.6”. I assume it’s close enough for rock and roll. I am grateful for the help and I don’t mean to be picky over 1 mm but I didn’t buy and modify my sho to race a 1/4 mile or from street light to street light. I did it to race around the hills with all the blind curves and narrow tree lined roads that are everywhere by me so I’m just worried about being able to brake as well as possible in this pig rather than flying off a cliff. I appreciate your input!
That's them. 13.6. sometimes the fronts are listed 13.8 instead of 13.9. Same thing in this case

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mrhighcaliber

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Stock, Raybestos, Wagner, Centric, Bosch. Are all solid rotors with high carbon/iron metalurgy. I frequent those brands. I've used them all on vehicles I've worked on.

Don't get the cheapest front rotor, they take most of the beating. But usually it ok to Save a few bucks on the rears to be more economical.

I do Rockauto.

Pads:
Stock PP Semi Mets (performance, initial bite, lower temp to friction coefficient=lower heat for the same stop=less chance of rotor warpage)

Stock non Pp Ceramics (rotor and pad longevity, smoother braking)

Raybestos e3 Hybrid
pads are a great mix of Semi Met stopping power and ceramic longevity. (Have them on my wife's car...nuff said. Also have them on my 08explorer on 33's. Traction control works them out pretty good off roading, locks the wheels up quickly, stops great. Great pads)

Wagner brake parts are usually on the expensive side, but are great.

Bosch Pads

Bosch Ceramics are good

Bosch PP semi met Pads on my sho are excellent. Stoptech slotted rotors. I drive the sho only for spirited driving, and abuse with some crusing. Those rotors have 25,*** hard miles on them and on the 3rd set of semi met type pads. 140mph+ stops. No warpage. Rotor Still within specified min thickness. Strong stops. Excellent if you frequent high speeds stops, tracking, etc.



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Sho_Ride

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Doing some research on the rear rotors for this upgrade and I’m noticing that they not only a larger width but also 19 mm thick and vented. I’ll have to assume the new 13+ calipers will accommodate the added thickness.
 

mrhighcaliber

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Doing some research on the rear rotors for this upgrade and I’m noticing that they not only a larger width but also 19 mm thick and vented. I’ll have to assume the new 13+ calipers will accommodate the added thickness.
Absolutely.

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