2011 SHO Engine Replace

['Ol Smoky SHO]

I know this is someone else's thread so I don't want to take it over. I recently posted to Facebook and had a few requests in regards to the engine replacement from 2010 to later years and whether or not the cam sensors or crank sensors will simply just swap over. I have read the other posts of people successfully doing so during their swaps. The issue I have found is that the early sensors are a variable reluctance sensor type which uses a variable voltage created from a spinning magnetic toothed wheel. The second type used on the later design is what is regarded as a hall effect sensor and basicly uses the toothed wheel to create a digital type of signal (on-off-on-off, ect. By picking up the teeth on the wheel. The good news is I have found that my 2010 car and 2016 engine both use the same part number camshafts which in turn in the parts listing seem have the same trigger wheel mounted on the end as part of the camshaft. This means the trigger wheel should work with with either sensor types. They do list two different sensor part numbers ie. The 3 wire hall effect, 2 wire vr.just wanted to share some helpful info as I was speaking with someone who is having an issue with a later build engine swap into an early build car. Not certain what their issue is unless the harness, sensors or pcm they are using are not compatible with each other or the pcm programing is corrupted. Hard to say with out it physically in front of me.

On a side note. Took my ptu to work today to disassemble. The fluid looked like the color of graphite but no metallic traces in it. I cleaned it out very well. All the gears and bearings and races look to be fine. There are no internal clutches, just a 3 gear set. The internal parts are very robust so it must be the issue of it spending it's life next to the catalyst which overheats the fluid, combined with seal leaks. I added a 6f drain plug to the bottom so fluid changes with be complete and a breeze. Considering it only holds 18oz of 75w140. Changing it every 20k or so should be easy and cheap... changed all the input and output seals. I didn't do the pinion seal as it wasn't leaking and is still easy to do in chassis later if it decides to leak.

Dropped out my engine and trans tonight on some wood blocks on the floor. Turns out I need a top trans mount. Order one tomorrow. Separated the trans, bringing converter to work to flush out tomorrow while it's out. Gonna look and see if I have any axle seals and converter seals in my trans collection. Might as well do them at the same time.


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[MattC]

Absolutely brilliant! Keep updating us all, I'm right behind you and will begin once all my other bills have cleared (damn boat)

 

['Ol Smoky SHO]

Just a small update, got all my sensors and coils swapped over, the crankshaft trigger wheel does need to match the sensor it is designed for. The 2010 engine trigger wheel has less teeth, more spaces than the 2016 wheel. Got the converter seal and left axle seal changed. Got the engine and trans bolted back up and up in chassis. Found out 2010 flex plate has 4 holes, 2016 flex plate has 3 holes. Found this out when I went to bolt the converter. Dropped it back out. Swapped to correct flex plate. Reassembled and back up in chassis. Pulled the bumper, condenser, radiator and cac. Cac had some evidence of metal after I drained it of oil. Gonna bring it and the radiator to work Monday and flush it them out well. The new engine uses specialty orange, the old used specialty green. Going to do a complete flush without the thermostat to the cooling system to prevent cross contamination. Subframe is back up and top end is pretty buttoned up. Just need to replace the bank 2 wideband as the turbine whacked it when it broke.

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[SHOdded]

How did the flex plate and converter look? Any signs of heat stress on the converter? Did it remove easily?

 

['Ol Smoky SHO]

The old flex plate looked fine, the converter didn't look like it got overheated, I used the heated flusher at work just because. Didn't have any signs of contamination. The old flex plate and tone ring swapped over no issue. Just make sure to torque the bolts to the crankshaft.

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['Ol Smoky SHO]

Radiator, cac condensor and fan back in. Both widebands changed. Cleaned and swapped the heated pcv valve and intake fitting so no possible mil. Ol Smoky is alive. Filled and purged the oil filter, then cranked 6 times with injector harness unplugged to build oil pressure. Fired right up, started it a couple times, but no coolant in it yet incase it had to come out again, so not run long. No noise, no misfires, No initial mil light, still need to run koeo and koer, reset Kam and mfm. Just need to change the booster hose end (the later style is a quick disconnect) and front breather tube as the port is in a different location in the front v.c., plug the reservoir port in the valley tube, and clean 2 more cac tubes I left in the trunk., flush the cooling system and change the tsat. Top off trans.. toss the bumber on. next up machine the rotors, change the brake fluid and diff fluid.... And wait for snow... Boosted Awd Fun

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[SilverSH0]

then cranked 6 times with injector harness unplugged to build oil pressure.

For future reference (or anyone reading), you can crank and build the oil pressure w/out unplugging the injector harness. With the car off press on the brake and the gas pedal to the floor. While holding both pedals down, press and hold the start engine button. With the gas depressed the car will crank (and build oil pressure) but won't start. When it's cranked enough, release the start engine button (everything turns off) or release the gas pedal (starts the engine).

 

['Ol Smoky SHO]

For future reference (or anyone reading), you can crank and build the oil pressure w/out unplugging the injector harness. With the car off press on the brake and the gas pedal to the floor. While holding both pedals down, press and hold the start engine button. With the gas depressed the car will crank (and build oil pressure) but won't start. When it's cranked enough, release the start engine button (everything turns off) or release the gas pedal (starts the engine).

What SilverSH0 describes is true. That is called wide open throttle fuel cut off. The reason I did not do that was to prevent possible firing by the pcm not seeing a full wot signal. The injector connectors are easily accessed on the top of the intake manifold. Either way works but if you don't have the accelerator all the way to the floor you risk a quick startup without oil pressure and possibly jumping The chain even with good tensioners (ive seen it done by someone just starting after having the chain off)I have used both methods, I prefer the cut and dry way but to each their own. Sometimes when we get a reman they don't prime the oil pump and you need to do a quick start/stop fire of the engine to get it to pull it up, then continue to crank it until it's built up. Cranking it won't be fast enough to pull it up the pickup dry. Different methods.

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[Johnbigdog]

A third way would to just leave the crank position sensor disconnected.

So many ways to skin a cat....

 

['Ol Smoky SHO]

A third way would to just leave the crank position sensor disconnected.

So many ways to skin a cat....

That's probably the most difficult way on one of these. The ckp is behind the bank 2 turbo/catalyst, behind a heat shield, inside the front of the bellhousing . But yes that would work too.

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[SilverSH0]

That's probably the most difficult way on one of these. The ckp is behind the bank 2 turbo/catalyst, behind a heat shield, inside the front of the bellhousing . But yes that would work too.

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Where does the pigtail connect into the wire loom (just for my general knowledge)? I know on my Jeep it's located at about the 11 o'clock position on the bellhousing and a PITA to replace. However, the pigtail connects on the passenger side of the vehicle near the top side.

I wasn't trying to point out multiple ways to crank the car without it starting. I just figured you might not know about it and doing it inside the car doesn't require any special effort or work. But you obviously had a reason to do it the way you did.

 

['Ol Smoky SHO]

Where does the pigtail connect into the wire loom (just for my general knowledge)? I know on my Jeep it's located at about the 11 o'clock position on the bellhousing and a PITA to replace. However, the pigtail connects on the passenger side of the vehicle near the top side.

I wasn't trying to point out multiple ways to crank the car without it starting. I just figured you might not know about it and doing it inside the car doesn't require any special effort or work. But you obviously had a reason to do it the way you did.

The harness connects at the back side of the sensor. The sensor is located in the rear left side of the engine (front bank in a transverse mounted engine) behind a rubber grommet, behind a heat shield where the engine meets the trans about 4 inches above the oil pan. The sensor is only about 4 inches long and only has a connector on it. No wire harness. The loom passes through the grommet into behind the flexplate/flywheel. Basicly behind the front turbo.

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['Ol Smoky SHO]

The harness connects at the back side of the sensor. The sensor is located in the rear left side of the engine (front bank in a transverse mounted engine) behind a rubber grommet, behind a heat shield where the engine meets the trans about 4 inches above the oil pan. The sensor is only about 4 inches long and only has a connector on it. No wire harness. The loom passes through the grommet into behind the flexplate/flywheel. Basicly behind the front turbo.

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The access hole is on the left of the photo and the sensor on the 2016 is gray. The 2010 is black

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['Ol Smoky SHO]

Btw ol Smoky SHO is up and running I've put about 150 miles on it so far. No dtcs, no drivability issues whatsoever. Runs great and makes great power. These photos were about a week and half ago. So far I replaced the broken drivers mirror assy and inlet door actuator..normal.. Not the best fuel economy. Figured out it is a PP with the 3.16 and advance trac off ability. Averaged 20 on my way to work yesturday. Just ordered front rear lca bushings as the wheels shift when braking (torn, . normal..) and rear Motorcraft super duty pads from rock auto all shipped for about $90. The rears are about to grind as I found out when I brought it to work yesturday and balanced the tires. I'm going to change the fuel line to the high pressure pump as the 2016 connection is horizontal and the 2010 is vertical. I just twisted the flex line to connect it but then forgot how easy it was to swap it out. To get it running, the front breather hose needed to be rerouted as the port is in a different location in the composite valve cover, brake booster hose connection was changed, and the extra coolant port was capped off and made a bleed port. Updated all the modules to their latest releases.

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[SHOdded]

 

[SHOinVa]

and rear Motorcraft super duty pads from rock auto all shipped for about $90.

You have this whole thing down, I am so jealous of your knowledge an ability, I live in fear of a blow motor and have a special reserve credit card "Just in Case" Anyway just throw this out there, the 10-12 brakes suck with your ability I would swap out the 13+ brakes if your going to do the pads anyway. Most of the 10-12 guys seems to go through pads pretty quickly. Just my thought, Thanks for all the posts.
Charlie/

 

['Ol Smoky SHO]

You have this whole thing down, I am so jealous of your knowledge an ability, I live in fear of a blow motor and have a special reserve credit card "Just in Case" Anyway just throw this out there, the 10-12 brakes suck with your ability I would swap out the 13+ brakes if your going to do the pads anyway. Most of the 10-12 guys seems to go through pads pretty quickly. Just my thought, Thanks for all the posts.
Charlie/

It is yet to be a daily driver so I'm not too worried about brake life at this point, more or less make it safe. It needs a left rear caliper too. The piston is retracted too far. the super duty pads were about $29. Probably cheaper than my cost at work for the standard motorcrafts. I'll worry about upgrades later. I have been reading about many who have issue with the 10-12 brakes but working as designed is fine for now. What are the upgrades done on the 13+ ? Thanks.

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[SHOinVa]

I'm not too worried about brake life at this point,

Kind of what I thought an it makes since, But when your like me an you have to pay people to do things you try an only pay for it once.

What are the upgrades done on the 13+

Without going back through all the threads I believe its just the size of the rotors, if I remember correctly there about an inch larger. There may be something else but that I know for sure. Not sure why that makes such a big difference but it seems most folks are much happier with the 13+ brakes. The one thing I do know for sure is I have no tune an more then once I got a bit worried she was going to slow down in time. So first of the year I am going to try the 13+ retrofit. Once again thanks for all the information, I think your going to be a poplar guy as long as you are out here.
C/

 

[SHOinVa]

What are the upgrades done on the 13+ ? Thanks.

I was thinking about my answer on this the other day, and I forgot one thing, the other up grade was the brake Master Cylinder an Booster, I read somewhere that just upgrading the Master Cylinder improved the brakes. That is just what I read I don't have any real data, maybe since you actually turn the wrenches you can come up with a better answer when you have a few moments.
I am not going to worry about brakes to well into next year, I have spent too much of the SHO so a brake is in order.
So how is Smoke running and how are you enjoying the SHO.
Have a great Christmas
C/

 

['Ol Smoky SHO]

I was thinking about my answer on this the other day, and I forgot one thing, the other up grade was the brake Master Cylinder an Booster, I read somewhere that just upgrading the Master Cylinder improved the brakes. That is just what I read I don't have any real data, maybe since you actually turn the wrenches you can come up with a better answer when you have a few moments.
I am not going to worry about brakes to well into next year, I have spent too much of the SHO so a brake is in order.
So how is Smoke running and how are you enjoying the SHO.
Have a great Christmas
C/

It's running great. I think i might have a cop intermittently dropping once in a while as a get a slight quiver at idle. They are the original coils to swapped to the new engine so doesnt suprise me, I have yet to look into it. I pulled the console apart as I acquired a ford bidirectional remote start to install but decided to go with a fortin remote start using the factory remote. Works nicely. Less wiring and does not require a key bypass in a box. I have yet to start really driving it as its not plated nor insured at this time. I was just using a dealer plate from work for now. Got the rear brakes done and the caliper piston freed up so no more low pedal. Needs a good cleaning and fix the quarters still. It will be nice to drive something from this century regularly.

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