I have a 2010 SHO my only mods are CAI and Livernois Evenflo 160 thermostat, I just received my tune from Livernois. My question for everyone is whats the safest bet tune I can put on my car with fear of pushing it to far with the mods i currently have, my tuner has Stage 3, 4 4 Plus and 5 on it.
2010 SHO Tune advice
- Thread starter acompt
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I can assure you that you do not have stage 5 on your tuner. That is a methanol only tune. As a side note, even stage 5 is a safe tune for daily driving. That tune is far more aggressive than a 4+ tune 
You should be fine with any level of the tunes LME provided. Make sure you match the fuel requirements though. If it says it needs 93, run 93, for example. Keep your tuner handy for times you are traveling and the right octane fuel isn't available. You might need to flash to the appropriate level of tune. That's about it.
I can assure you that you do not have stage 5 on your tuner. That is a methanol only tune. As a side note, even stage 5 is a safe tune for daily driving. That tune is far more aggressive than a 4+ tune
Oops, you are right, mine has the stage 1 87, stage 3 91 stage 4 91 and 4+ 91.
marius883
SHO Member
I'm in the process of ordering my Livernois tune as well, I have a 2010 and the only mods I have right now is an AEM drop in filter. My question is, do I need the 3 bar map sensor? Will it make much of a difference? Or can I just get the tune and the thermostat?
mrhighcaliber
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Go ahead and get the 3 bar map. Power/boost builds quickly and stays consistent and strong throughout the rpm range. Just got my tuner and pre-tune parts Friday. Change your spark plugs too if you have over 30k on them. Livernois site has them pregapped to .030. Most of my plugs were around .060 +/-.003 and worn. Forced induction vehicles tend to snack on these.
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marius883
SHO Member
Thank you, I don't know what I was doing when I wrote that, but what I really meant was... Do I need the colder thermostat, or can I get just the tune and the 3bar map..
And my plugs were replaced today at the stealership, free of charge
mrhighcaliber
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That's great news on the plugs. As for the 160 degree tstat, I recommend it. I ran Friday on a lms stage 3 93oct tune. My coolant temps were consistently in the 188-205 range, same as stock. Usually 200ish in the city and 185ish highway. Saturday I installed my 3bar map, 160° tstat and changed my oil then installed the 4+X tune. Temps don't reach above 188 even with the past 2 90+ degree days in Michigan. Temps usually sit around 178ish highway. That makes me feel good especially with all the heat that these turbos see as well as with the hotter tune. 20degree cooler coolant is good. . Plus I would think that the cooler temps would help reduce the likelihood of knock which could mean the pcm will give a bit more of a timing advance, usually meaning more power. But yes you can run the tunes without the 160° tstat. I'm sure Lms would advise against it as the tune itself is designed with the replacement of the tstat in mind. Example : fans come on sooner and stay on longer with the tune, and works together with the lower temp t stat that will open 20° sooner and stay open longer than the stock 180°. It all works together...to prevent Taurus fires *Smokey the bear voice*Thank you, I don't know what I was doing when I wrote that, but what I really meant was... Do I need the colder thermostat, or can I get just the tune and the 3bar map..
And my plugs were replaced today at the stealership, free of charge
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marius883
SHO Member
Thank you again for a detailed reply, the only reason I didn't want to change thermostat right now is because I don't know anything about engines or mechanics.. I don't want to mess anything up :/ it's probably an easy job for most people, but if it involves taking a lot of stuff off I dno... Also, how do I measure the temperature?
sticks1680
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I have a question you may not be able to answer. With the adjustment for colder tstat and fans coming on sooner. I notice my fan comes on damn near within a few minutes of startup. Has there been any tracking - records of the fans wearing out sooner? To me it would seem you're going to wear them out quicker by having them on constantly. Not sure of the cost to replace them but im sure it wont be cheap. Just curious.
Pohnz-1
Wear & tear with any motor/electrical appliance (think CFLs for instance) is greatest at startup. If I could think of a %age, probably 80% is startup related. So at worst, the fans should last same or longer with the startsoonerstayonlonger strategy. In theory.
Thanks for that detailed reply! Hopefully it sheds some light on what is going on post mods for the less mechanically inclined members.That's great news on the plugs. As for the 160 degree tstat, I recommend it. I ran Friday on a lms stage 3 93oct tune. My coolant temps were consistently in the 188-205 range, same as stock. Usually 200ish in the city and 185ish highway. Saturday I installed my 3bar map, 160° tstat and changed my oil then installed the 4+X tune. Temps don't reach above 188 even with the past 2 90+ degree days in Michigan. Temps usually sit around 178ish highway. That makes me feel good especially with all the heat that these turbos see as well as with the hotter tune. 20degree cooler coolant is good. . Plus I would think that the cooler temps would help reduce the likelihood of knock which could mean the pcm will give a bit more of a timing advance, usually meaning more power. But yes you can run the tunes without the 160° tstat. I'm sure Lms would advise against it as the tune itself is designed with the replacement of the tstat in mind. Example : fans come on sooner and stay on longer with the tune, and works together with the lower temp t stat that will open 20° sooner and stay open longer than the stock 180°. It all works together...to prevent Taurus fires *Smokey the bear voice*
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You don't have to be all that savvy for a thermostat installation. You simply follow the upper radiator hose to the engine block remove the hose and stock tstat, and replace. After that, burp the coolant system by removing the radiator cap and adding the fluid until the system stops accepting fluid.
The fans are fine. The electrical fans do not incur the same wear that your older belt driven fans would.
I had the exact same questions I was going to post on here today! Thanks for the answer!
