1st Oil change
- Thread starter whitecoyote
- Start date
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RonPorter
SHO Club of America
Go back to the doc I posted in #34. Seems to make it pretty clear, plus there's a different spec for the one case that needs 5W-30.
sperold
Last to Know
I loved the wchain story about the Marauder oil change. I always wondered why I had more trouble with my car after it came back from the dealer.
Well they have the techs at dealers, and they have **** techs that they pay 7 dollars an hour. I imagine working on town cars, sables, and grand marquis all day and seeing a marauder is like eating salisbury steak all day, and then someone tossing you a Porterhouse... or something like that. I always do my own oil changes, the prepaid maintenance was a nice surprise, but after one, that was enough for me.
Huntervf
Bored now
When I was with Ford Racing/SVT, warranties could technically be rendered null and void if the failure was in fact traced back to oil. Therein lies the difficult part, because short of not having oil in the engine (or doing something stupid like filling it up with 2-cycle oil), it's very hard to pin a failure on a different kind of oil. Not impossible, however--say there was a rod bearing failure, and there was clear documentation of the owner using a different oil (as in posting about it on a forum), with lab tests confirming a different weight than what's recommended. It would possible that a warranty claim for that spun bearing could be denied, based on improper lubrication. It's not likely, but possible.
I'd get warranty questions all the time from GT500 owners, and I'll tell the forum the same thing I told them: Using a specific product will NOT void a factory warranty. Doesn't matter if it's a different oil, cold air kit, a 200 horsepower supercharger kit or a 400 shot of nitrous. Any damage resulting from from said modifications, however, will void it. Say for example, that you take your 2010 SHO into the local speed shop for a tune and a healthy 100 shot of naaaaaaaaws. A week later, you notice your right headlamp has water in it. Well, the tune and the nitrous have nothing to do a leaking headlamp, so your warranty replaces it just fine. That's not to say there aren't dealers out there who'd say too bad, the naws and tune voided your warranty; that's when you call Ford and go over their heads, because FORD decides what to cover under warranty, not the dealer. Or even say the alternator failed--that could be a gray area but still, in the age of rev limiters, a burnt-out alternator likely isn't the fault of a tune or nitrous. On the other hand, say you're driving to work one day and the trans decides it only needs 2 working speeds; good luck getting a repair like that covered under warranty, because the tune increased power and changed shift parameters, and the nitrous added a shit-ton more power, thus putting extra strain on the transmission.
Long story short, yes, simply using a different weight oil can potentially void a warranty. Beyond that, I know there are people who are very fond of a particular brand or a particular weight of oil, but honestly, the people who design and engineer these engines generally know best. For a brand new car, give them the benefit of the doubt. If you don't want to use the recommended brand, at least use the recommended weight.
I'd get warranty questions all the time from GT500 owners, and I'll tell the forum the same thing I told them: Using a specific product will NOT void a factory warranty. Doesn't matter if it's a different oil, cold air kit, a 200 horsepower supercharger kit or a 400 shot of nitrous. Any damage resulting from from said modifications, however, will void it. Say for example, that you take your 2010 SHO into the local speed shop for a tune and a healthy 100 shot of naaaaaaaaws. A week later, you notice your right headlamp has water in it. Well, the tune and the nitrous have nothing to do a leaking headlamp, so your warranty replaces it just fine. That's not to say there aren't dealers out there who'd say too bad, the naws and tune voided your warranty; that's when you call Ford and go over their heads, because FORD decides what to cover under warranty, not the dealer. Or even say the alternator failed--that could be a gray area but still, in the age of rev limiters, a burnt-out alternator likely isn't the fault of a tune or nitrous. On the other hand, say you're driving to work one day and the trans decides it only needs 2 working speeds; good luck getting a repair like that covered under warranty, because the tune increased power and changed shift parameters, and the nitrous added a shit-ton more power, thus putting extra strain on the transmission.
Long story short, yes, simply using a different weight oil can potentially void a warranty. Beyond that, I know there are people who are very fond of a particular brand or a particular weight of oil, but honestly, the people who design and engineer these engines generally know best. For a brand new car, give them the benefit of the doubt. If you don't want to use the recommended brand, at least use the recommended weight.
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Yep, I had warranty work done on my Lightning which had brake and suspension modifications out the *****, but it was an engine problem - which was stock - and covered under warranty no issues.
What mileage did you get your oil changed at btw? My "Ford Owners Advantage" letter I just got told me my first one was at 7500 miles...that interval is getting longer and longer.
What mileage did you get your oil changed at btw? My "Ford Owners Advantage" letter I just got told me my first one was at 7500 miles...that interval is getting longer and longer.
PonySHO
FOG
I got good deal on a maintenance plan with my F250, so I said what the ****. I've got some horror stories with Quick Lane in the beginning. They had a special tech do mine after that. I opted not to get a maintenance plan with my SHO. Receipts for the oil and filter when the oil change was done would suffice they said. The FLM Owner website has a maintenance log on it for your vehicle. In addition to work done by the dealer, it has a feature where you can add your own maintenance and check home for the location. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get it to take my input... keeps coming up with an error.
SHOclub1
SHO Member
Just a point on the M-M act. As I understand it, it applies to parts/lubricants/coolants etc, that are equivalent to those recommended by the factory. In other words, Ford (or other manufacturer) can't tell you that you can't use Mobil 1 as long as it meets the manufacturers specifications.
From this reading, if the manual and manufacturer specifies 0-20 or 5-20 and you put in 5-30 or 10-40, you have NOT met the specification of the manufacturer, no matter what brand oil you use including Ford brand oil!
I run 0-20 in my 300C as the manual specifies that it is necessary for the cylinder deactivation system. I use Amsoil, and have no problem running the 20 viscosity, it will protect just fine.
I doubt if running 0-30 or 5-30 would really make any difference, but if I can get good protection either way, why mess with what the factory specifies?
Since I live where it gets really cold, I won't put a 10-? viscosity in anything and will run 5 or 0 (first number, cold number) every time, and I can run it year round in just daily driver cars. I can run single viscosity or "thicker" oils in my '89 SHO race car, because it doesn't get run in the cold, and clearances are such that it won't make any difference.
YMMV of course!
From this reading, if the manual and manufacturer specifies 0-20 or 5-20 and you put in 5-30 or 10-40, you have NOT met the specification of the manufacturer, no matter what brand oil you use including Ford brand oil!
I run 0-20 in my 300C as the manual specifies that it is necessary for the cylinder deactivation system. I use Amsoil, and have no problem running the 20 viscosity, it will protect just fine.
I doubt if running 0-30 or 5-30 would really make any difference, but if I can get good protection either way, why mess with what the factory specifies?
Since I live where it gets really cold, I won't put a 10-? viscosity in anything and will run 5 or 0 (first number, cold number) every time, and I can run it year round in just daily driver cars. I can run single viscosity or "thicker" oils in my '89 SHO race car, because it doesn't get run in the cold, and clearances are such that it won't make any difference.
YMMV of course!
Brett
SHOs before HOs
Soooo you refuse to let the dealer change your oil because of one irresponsible tech? Personally i would've just said "dont let him *point at said tech* ever touch my car again" and have been done with it, or go to another local ford dealer. Just dont see how that warrants refusing to let a dealer change your oil ever again, that's just me. To each his own.
I prefer and enjoy changing my own oil.
1slickRED89
Guest
why not use recommended oil? there is no power locked up in it, won't make the engine last longer, can't cost more, what am I missing? Also, with so much money on the line if the turbo bearings or cam phasers get zapped from wear earlier in life when the car is out of warranty, why mess with it.
i am aware that there are also issue like the areation of the oil and sludging properties, point being there may be reasons that are not common knowledge for using 5W20.
only thing I would recommend NOT using from the factory is the motorcraft oil filter. this is because the benchmarking tests I have seen show they are not near as efficient (single pass @ 20 micron) as the market leaders, 80% vs 99%.
i am aware that there are also issue like the areation of the oil and sludging properties, point being there may be reasons that are not common knowledge for using 5W20.
only thing I would recommend NOT using from the factory is the motorcraft oil filter. this is because the benchmarking tests I have seen show they are not near as efficient (single pass @ 20 micron) as the market leaders, 80% vs 99%.
SHODWN
Mother Threasa
Guys the use of 0-30 wont hurt anything.. Amsoil makes a superior product.
BUT, you have a warranty on your new car, if you follow the rules! So why not just follow the rules untill you cant make a claim any more? Then do what you want.
BUT, you have a warranty on your new car, if you follow the rules! So why not just follow the rules untill you cant make a claim any more? Then do what you want.
When are you guys making your first oil changes? The dealer asked me back at 5k, the book/website says 7.5k, and my mechanic wants me at 3k.
I don't drive a lot, so I'll probably hit 6-months before any of them, but just curious.
I don't drive a lot, so I'll probably hit 6-months before any of them, but just curious.
PonySHO
FOG
I changed mine at 475 and put on a Mobil 1 filter. IIRC, that filter will catch down to 10 um. When I bought my F-250, I put a magnet on the oil drain and changed the oil at 200. The oil drain had about an 1/8" of fine metal on it. I don't put on that many miles so I'll be changing the oil twice a year.
