AllSHO_n_NoGO
New Member
Not sure if anyone is interested but I received a second new Ford front head gasket. Just waiting for the post to show up in the classified section but I am going to sell it off since I wont need it.
About to repair another V8 Cam Failure...
- Thread starter AllSHO_n_NoGO
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AllSHO_n_NoGO
New Member
Details please...
Welding the cams is probably the easiest part of this whole job. I appreciate the offer but there are all set to go.
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NebraskaSHO
Harumph!
A lot of places have the front pads mislabeled. I think that's what he was getting at.
AllSHO_n_NoGO
New Member
Gotcha!
Well the subframe is back up and in the car. Motor is all together, cams welded... just need to reconnect a few odds and ends and it will be ready to run.
Its only a matter of time now...
AllSHO_n_NoGO
New Member
I have a whole box of them... but they are from the spare motor I got.
AllSHO_n_NoGO
New Member
Just came in from the garage and the SHO is no longer All SHO. Just ran it through its paces and it's running pretty good.
Engine light is on so tomorrow I am going to hook up the scan tool and see what its complaining about.
Overall the motor runs like a champ. Has a rough idle right now. Above 1500rpms it feels as if it smooths out. I am thinking the engine light may be directly related to this but we will see.
But for now... it's alive!
Engine light is on so tomorrow I am going to hook up the scan tool and see what its complaining about.
Overall the motor runs like a champ. Has a rough idle right now. Above 1500rpms it feels as if it smooths out. I am thinking the engine light may be directly related to this but we will see.
But for now... it's alive!
Rubix
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Congratulations! Good job keeping another failed v8 on the road, let me go find a hat to put on so I can say hats off to you sir 
AllSHO_n_NoGO
New Member
Congratulations! Good job keeping another failed v8 on the road, let me go find a hat to put on so I can say hats off to you sir
Thanks! Turns out there were two bad coils. Luckily they were both in the front so I didnt have to go mess around with the intake again! Replaced those with a couple extras I had and its nice and smooth.
Now I just need to mess around with the steel line going into the top of the power steering pump. There is power steering fluid seeping out from around where the line goes into the nuts that holds it to the top of the pump. I am wondering if there may be some debris in there preventing a good seal. Its just messy because it seeps down the front cover and leaves a bit of a puddle on the ground.
I am going to do a tranny service hopefully tomorrow night since the last one was done at 50k according to the previous owner. Then it have plates on it and I will see how good it goes down the road.
AllSHO_n_NoGO
New Member
Just curious if anyone knows... I am looking for one power steering hose. It is the one highlighted in the picture going from the pump to the reservoir.
I was able to find plenty of listings for the line going from the reservoir to the cooler, but nothing specific for this one. I kinda want the correct one since the temp one I have on there now is just a regular hose I put in place and it is extremely close to the PS pulley.
I was able to find plenty of listings for the line going from the reservoir to the cooler, but nothing specific for this one. I kinda want the correct one since the temp one I have on there now is just a regular hose I put in place and it is extremely close to the PS pulley.
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The fitting with the rubber end on it is bad and there is no OEM fix other than a new hose.
But you can fix it for next to nothing.
Take the banjo fitting off the pump. Use a 3/8 fNPT pipe tap to thread the hose end. You will not need to drill this out IIRC.
Get a 3/8" mNPT x 3/8" hose barb. Or you can get a 3/8" mNPT x hydraulic fitting thread if you want to use a pre-made hose.
You will also need about 18" of hydraulic hose. If using the hydraulic fittings on the new fittings then you should be able to find one pre-made at most large farm type hardware stores.
If using the hose barbs and hose clamps then you just need some 3/8" hydraulic hose with no fittings. You will end up cutting off the OEM hose where it turns into steel as it loops over the top of the surge tank. So you can cut up your old hose to use with the hose barbs.
Cut the steel line as it turns and runs horizontal over the fuel lines/surge tank area. Get a 3/8" tube compression fitting x 1/4" fNPT thread and put this on the cut off steel line. If using the hose barbs get a 1/4" mNPT x 3/8" hose barb and connect every thing up and tighten down the hose clamps. Use the broader type good ones.
If using the pre-made hose with threaded fittings you need to get the correct type thread to screw into the compression fitting.
I've been driving now for three years on the hose barb and clamps with no problem. The pre-made hose is a cleaner looking setup though. The hose clamps will definitely hold up to the pressure. Most hydraulic hose has a steel braided lining and this will distort and hold fast. You will generally tear up the hose to get it off the barb.
But you can fix it for next to nothing.
Take the banjo fitting off the pump. Use a 3/8 fNPT pipe tap to thread the hose end. You will not need to drill this out IIRC.
Get a 3/8" mNPT x 3/8" hose barb. Or you can get a 3/8" mNPT x hydraulic fitting thread if you want to use a pre-made hose.
You will also need about 18" of hydraulic hose. If using the hydraulic fittings on the new fittings then you should be able to find one pre-made at most large farm type hardware stores.
If using the hose barbs and hose clamps then you just need some 3/8" hydraulic hose with no fittings. You will end up cutting off the OEM hose where it turns into steel as it loops over the top of the surge tank. So you can cut up your old hose to use with the hose barbs.
Cut the steel line as it turns and runs horizontal over the fuel lines/surge tank area. Get a 3/8" tube compression fitting x 1/4" fNPT thread and put this on the cut off steel line. If using the hose barbs get a 1/4" mNPT x 3/8" hose barb and connect every thing up and tighten down the hose clamps. Use the broader type good ones.
If using the pre-made hose with threaded fittings you need to get the correct type thread to screw into the compression fitting.
I've been driving now for three years on the hose barb and clamps with no problem. The pre-made hose is a cleaner looking setup though. The hose clamps will definitely hold up to the pressure. Most hydraulic hose has a steel braided lining and this will distort and hold fast. You will generally tear up the hose to get it off the barb.
AllSHO_n_NoGO
New Member
Thanks Paul. I was reading your write up on V8 SHO that I inadvertently stumbled on while looking for something else as you were writing this one (as you can see by the above attached image!).
I wish I had know about this prior... woulda been a lot easier to do when I had the motor out of the car but thats the way it goes!
I wish I had know about this prior... woulda been a lot easier to do when I had the motor out of the car but thats the way it goes!
AllSHO_n_NoGO
New Member
Hey Paul-
Just figured I would throw this out there. My buddy works for Ford and you can buy just the fitting that screws into the power steering pump to resolve the issue I was having if you do not want to install a new line like what you did. Granted your method is definately nice!
Inside the fitting where the steel line goes there is a rubber o-ring and a steel clip to hold it in place.
All you do is cut the connector off remove the o-ring from the steel line. Then screw in the new connector to the power steering pump. Push the steel line into the new connector and it clips in place. The new o-ring seals the line and its good to. This way you dont have to mess around with cutting the steel power steering line.
For anyone interested the Ford p/n is F5TZ-3F656-A. The dealer I got it from charged me $7.25.
Took about 10 minutes to change start to finish and it works mint. Just another alternative.
Just figured I would throw this out there. My buddy works for Ford and you can buy just the fitting that screws into the power steering pump to resolve the issue I was having if you do not want to install a new line like what you did. Granted your method is definately nice!
Inside the fitting where the steel line goes there is a rubber o-ring and a steel clip to hold it in place.
All you do is cut the connector off remove the o-ring from the steel line. Then screw in the new connector to the power steering pump. Push the steel line into the new connector and it clips in place. The new o-ring seals the line and its good to. This way you dont have to mess around with cutting the steel power steering line.
For anyone interested the Ford p/n is F5TZ-3F656-A. The dealer I got it from charged me $7.25.
Took about 10 minutes to change start to finish and it works mint. Just another alternative.
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