How-to on cam seals change????

[L.L.]

MY cam seals are leaking and need to be changed.
It's dripping right on the passenger side cat converter and smoking.
How hard is this job? Does anyone have a write-up?

Thanks, L.L.

 

[firstgen89sho]

There is a good writeup here, it goes through the whole process of replacing the Timing belt and such, but it also covers replacing the cam seals

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

 

[L.L.]

There is a good writeup here, it goes through the whole process of replacing the Timing belt and such, but it also covers replacing the cam seals

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

GREAT link. Thanks.

 

[jthod]

That article is always helpful, but a couple of notes:

-for punching the hole and pulling the seal out, get a GOOD STRONG set of picks I broke two cheap ones, and even bent one of the good ones.

-is says make sure the go in straigt, but make DAMN sure they go in straight. I messed one up, had to pull it out, and put a new one in.

-the national brand (from RCM) seemed OK, until I go tthe Timken brand seals (from AZ). they seemed to go in a little better, and not have a problem binding and wrinkling on the cam.

 

[firstgen89sho]

I personally prefer spending a few extra dollars and getting the OE seals right from Ford, they still stock them (at least they did, last time I checked)

 

[L.L.]

Thanks guys.

 

[SHOtimer]

I personally prefer spending a few extra dollars and getting the OE seals right from Ford, they still stock them (at least they did, last time I checked)

I agree, Ford seals for the cams and main seals.

I did my cams when the motor was on an engine stand - so it was rather straight forward.

Doug

 

[itwonder]

A couple of important things are missing in the shophoenixproject procedure. First, you must use sealant around the outside perimeter of the seal, especially critical on the rearmost seal that is under the cam position sensor. If you use the rubber coated Ford OEM seal, RTV will do nicely. If you use the steel cased National seal, then use anerobic sealant. Let the sealant cure before you start the engine. Second, I find it easier to tap the seal into place using the PVC coupling and a flat bar of steel as a low-clearance hammer. The levering it in method shown in the procedure just didn't work for me. The rearmost seal will try hard to go crooked as it enters the housing. If you don't catch it and stop that immediately, the seal will be damaged and it will leak. It's good to have an extra it case you accidentally ruin one.

 

[jthod]

X2 on the prying-in method, just ask NebraskaSHO about his pinky finger

 

[SHOtime2511]

ive always just pulled the intake and valve covers,this lets you remove the front cam lash cap and the seal just pops right out. the way the shophoenix site tells you to do it is a pain in the a$$ and will result in lots of cuss words.
oh and X2 on getting the Ford cam seals!

 

[Danz13]

I used a small self taping screw in to there, becareful not scratch anything, one you get it in a little tug it out with some pliers