New ford rings for 3.0---hone grit?

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Greg95SHO

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There is no wear on the cylinder walls but I want to bottle hone the cylinders
with the engine in the car. What grit hone do I get to use with the stock Ford rings? I was lucky enough to locate a set of the stock rings.

Thanks in advance.

Greg
 

AREA 91

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I would not recomend honing the cylinder walls.
Excess oil consumption will result.
 

Phoenix

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I might add a waste of money.

Get the woman a dinner instead , you'll get more results with that.
 

AREA 91

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You really never see glazing on the cylinder walls in these engines.
 

sho_sc

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so the ford rings dont require you to break the glaze on the cylinder walls ?

I would run a deglazer down each hole a few times, it really doesn't remove that much from the walls. Just make sure you cut the ring end gaps correctly and clean up ... ATF makes a good cleanup fluid.
 

Greg95SHO

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Yes, I just want to very lightly hone the cylinders so the rings seat well. The 3 arm stone style then is ok for this? I just dind't know if the stock rings were iron or moly.

Thanks,
Greg
 

Off Road SHO

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What are the new rings made out of? Steel, cast iron, chrome? Don't use a bar hone unless you've done this before, and successfully. Get a ball end hone that is about 10-20% larger than the diameter of the cynlinder. Duct tape up the other holes in the block, both oil and coolant holes, because this is a messy job. I would also throw a wrap of tape around the crank journals to seal off the oil passages there also.

Use a good oil, dip the entire hone in oil, you want to have the hone always spinning, though very slowly when ever it is in the cylinder. You don't want ANY verticle scratches, just diagonal criss-crosses. I'd use a 160 grit hone. Probably no more than 3 in and out passes, 4 at the most, and of course always moving, never stop the hone on the inside because that will leave verticle scratches when you pull out the hone.

After you've done all six holes, soak a light colored rag in ATF and wipe down the cylinders until the rags no longer show dark iron grit. Keep wiping. I don't like to hone anything that can't be cleaned thoroughly. A gallon of mineral spirits sprayed up inside the block will help float a lot of that crap off of the rough castings of the block so that your oil doesn't have to do it later.

I would definitely do a couple of short oil changes when you get it back together, if you don't have a way of thoroughly cleaning that block after honing.

Good luck.

Tom
 
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sho_sc

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What are the new rings made out of? Steel, cast iron, chrome? Don't use a bar hone unless you've done this before, and successfully. Get a ball end hone that is about 10-20% larger than the diameter of the cynlinder. Duct tape up the other holes in the block, both oil and coolant holes, because this is a messy job. I would also throw a wrap of tape around the crank journals to seal off the oil passages there also.

Use a good oil, dip the entire hone in oil, you want to have the hone always spinning, though very slowly when ever it is in the cylinder. You don't want ANY verticle scratches, just diagonal criss-crosses. I'd use a 160 grit hone. Probably no more than 3 in and out passes, 4 at the most, and of course always moving, never stop the hone on the inside because that will leave verticle scratches when you pull out the hone.

After you've done all six holes, soak a light colored rag in ATF and wipe down the cylinders until the rags no longer show dark iron grit. Keep wiping. I don't like to hone anything that can't be cleaned thoroughly. A gallon of mineral spirits sprayed up inside the block will help float a lot of that crap off of the rough castings of the block so that you oil doesn't do it later.

I would definitely do a couple of short oil changes when you get it back together, if you don't have a way of thoroughly cleaning that block after honing.

Good luck.

Tom

Perfect!
 

Greg95SHO

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Thanks for the responses! The rings are stock ones in Ford bags. The top ring has a silver edge which I'm not sure means. I can take them to a machinist to verify material. I know the hi-perf rings need a finer hone grit than iron rings.

Greg
 

Off Road SHO

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Different rings take different seat-in times and procedures. The old style cast iron rings would seat in within 200 miles of hard driving. Chrome moly's would take forever and 2000 miles. That was on old style blocks; I don't know about these SHO block's with the high nickel content.

Tom
 

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