Lower A-Arm Replacement/Ball Joint Replacement

[Joel Groff]

On my SHO (2015), I have the dreaded, you hit a bump you hear the metal clunking or clicking sound when you hit a bump. Such as driving over a raised curb lip when turning into business driveways, a small bump or small *** hole in the road, going over train tracks(this is where you really notice it) etc. I think it is time that my right lower A-Arm gets replaced. or ball joint itself. I believe the ball joint replacement you buy the Lower A-Arm assembly and the joint or is it easier to do the ball joint itself? It seems to be the front right on these cars that go bad the most. I had one replaced on my car years ago and that was a 2011 SHO but I had a warranty that covered it and never asked what they did to replace it. Is this an easy fix or is this something that is a pain in the ass?? Any and all help is appreciated!

 

[jasong_10]

Just replaced the whole control arm on my '12, it's a pretty straightforward job, but I have a lift in the garage so that makes most things easier.

 

[Joel Groff]

Care to share how you did it jasong?? A little bit of insight??

 

[LeroyJones]

Care to share how you did it jasong?? A little bit of insight??

Does it sound like the front end rattles when driving over a parking lot/road with a rough surface as well? I've had a noise in the front end of my car for quite a while and I could never figure it out. The passenger ball joint boot is not where it should be. Other than that everything seems tight in the front end. I've given it a complete "shake down" as have many others with no clue as to what the noise is.

 

[Joel Groff]

For me it is more of a clunk or thud like when i had my 11 SHO and I thought it was a ball joint and it was when the garage looked at it and this sounds exactly the same. For me I dont have a rattle. Id guess with your rattle something is loose or broken that absorbs vibration.

 

[Kevin Curley]

My '13 has that clunking noise. I replaced the lower control arms - bushings, ball joints and all - still makes the noise. I put coilovers on it, still makes the noise. Replaced the sway bar links, still makes the noise. I'm about to upgrade the rear sway bar and links maybe that will help who knows. I have looked at everything, inspected everything, it all looks fine and everything is tight. No loose tie rod ends, no loose axles, no ripped or worn boots, toe links look good...no idea what makes the noise.

As far as replacing the control arms, google "taurus sho replace lower control arm" and there are a couple good videos right on top. They come with the ball joints and rear bushings. It took me and a buddy a couple hours to do both it's not too bad. You might need a ball joint separator, I've got one that looks like a tuning fork it worked fine. Just be sure you get an alignment afterwards.

 

[Joel Groff]

Thanks for that Kevin. Ive not had a clunking noise all the time but ive noticed when i hit a bump or anything like it, it makes a noise. Sorry to hear that shit keeps happening with that clunking. You spend all that money and shit aint right or working. Also Ive repaced ball joints before and used the fork if you will and it works wonders(sometimes). I did search for the videos and while they do show it I just prefer actual people telling me how it is versus a video but i get it and its the semantics I look for. I just have to run it through the test to see if thats what it is.

 

[Kevin Curley]

The noise is annoying but it doesn't seem like it's causing any problems. Car drives fine, no abnormal tire wear, handling is way better to me with the coilovers but can be harsh over bad roads. Luckily where I live the roads are pretty good for the most part.

And yes I get that about that getting advice vs. watching videos. Wish I could offer some better advice, I don't remember anything really specific from changing them out that would be helpful. When I'm working on the SHO or my explorer it's a lot of trial and error and learning as I go lol. Good luck chasing down your problem, if you end up figuring out what it is let me know!

 

[Joel Groff]

I will agree it is trial and error and I am particular about working on cars because lord knows what you can mess up if you dont know what you are doing or you push or pull to hard. I really hope it is just my balljoint and nothing else and luckily ive been through this before with the same noise and it seems like the same thing but who knows. Ill keep you up to date once I have news.

 

[LeroyJones]

So far I've replaced the struts, sway bar links, and axles. The cradle bolts along with every other bolt in the front end has been checked as well as a complete "shake down" of the front end. Every thing seems tight as it should be. No abnormal tire wear to speak of either. My local ford dealership even put the chassis mics on it and had it for 3 days trying to find the noise with no avail. My last option is the inner and outer tie rods and the control arms. If those correct the issue I'll let yall know.

 

[jasong_10]

Care to share how you did it jasong?? A little bit of insight??

It's pretty simple with the right tools. The rearmost bushing is in a bracket that is just unbolted and removed with the entire arm (as long as your new arm comes with that bushing/bracket) and the front bushing just needs the through bolt removed. For the ball joint the tuning fork/separator works, I was able to just unbolt it and hit the ear on the steering knuckle and it popped out. I agree that Youtube can be a great resource as well. In regards to diagnosis, I was able to articulate with a pry bar the suspension and see that the ball joint was toast.

 

[SeanDev]

So far I've replaced the struts, sway bar links, and axles. The cradle bolts along with every other bolt in the front end has been checked as well as a complete "shake down" of the front end. Every thing seems tight as it should be. No abnormal tire wear to speak of either. My local ford dealership even put the chassis mics on it and had it for 3 days trying to find the noise with no avail. My last option is the inner and outer tie rods and the control arms. If those correct the issue I'll let yall know.

Where do you here this noise from? I am on my third Taurus but first SHO, and they all had this same clunk in front right even when mileage got high and I literally changed everything that had a bearing or a ball joint, the clunk was still there. My SHO only has 46,000 with original parts and clunks over every speed bump from front right side.

 

[LeroyJones]

Where do you here this noise from? I am on my third Taurus but first SHO, and they all had this same clunk in front right even when mileage got high and I literally changed everything that had a bearing or a ball joint, the clunk was still there. My SHO only has 46,000 with original parts and clunks over every speed bump from front right side.

It's from the right side as well. The only thing I haven't replaced is the control arm and the inner and outer tie rods. I've had the front end checked by 6 different shops and nothing. The other day when I was having my tires rotated myself and another guy were taking a pry bar checking things and it seemed like the inner tie rods weren't very tight. I almost duplicated the noise by taking a rubber mallet and hitting closer to where the tie rod goes into the rack.

 

[Bluezone]

Maybe while you are at it, you should have a look at the connection between the CV axle and the extension (intermediate) shaft from the the transmission thru the PTU. Should be no or very tiny amount of play. Also check the support bearing. This connection (splines) can wear. The intermediate shaft doesn't often get replaced. Ford only part.
Also check for worn strut top mount bearing. Did replace this when you did the struts?

 

[LeroyJones]

Maybe while you are at it, you should have a look at the connection between the CV axle and the extension (intermediate) shaft from the the transmission thru the PTU. Should be no or very tiny amount of play. Also check the support bearing. This connection (splines) can wear. The intermediate shaft doesn't often get replaced. Ford only part.
Also check for worn strut top mount bearing. Did replace this when you did the struts?

I have NOT checked the connection between the CV axle and the intermediate shaft. So, thank you for that. It didn't even cross my mind when I was under the car last. I put complete strut assemblies on it when I replaced them. That's the reason I went with replacing those because it sounded just like a worn strut mount to me. I was wrong...

 

[SeanDev]

I have NOT checked the connection between the CV axle and the intermediate shaft. So, thank you for that. It didn't even cross my mind when I was under the car last. I put complete strut assemblies on it when I replaced them. That's the reason I went with replacing those because it sounded just like a worn strut mount to me. I was wrong...

He is right on the carrier bearing on right side, you can by a complete cv axle with bearing. Me personally I think it's the quirk of the car.

 

[Kevin Curley]

He is right on the carrier bearing on right side, you can by a complete cv axle with bearing. Me personally I think it's the quirk of the car.

I have resigned myself to this lol

 

[Joel Groff]

As far as that noise goes I am not sure what that noise would be. I dont have a noise but I can tell mine is due to a suspension problem. I took my passenger side wheel off and then i noticed the inside of my tire was wearing quicker than any other part of it and I checked the tire I cross rotated a few months ago and noticed it was doing the same thing. I then check my strut and noticed the physical boot had broken loose and there was some damage to the strut. I am wondering who drove this before me and what did they do to this. I will never know but I am going to replace both front strut/sprint assemblies. I prob just use high quality quick-struts that are pricey but worth it. I noticed MotorCraft Doesnt sell them but they just sell the strut. I do not have a spring compressor and I spoke to a buddy at a dealership and they want 750 dollars to do the replacement. On both sides....I did check my other parts and they looked good but I have a feeling this will be a nickel and dimer type thing...

 

[Shadow351]

If you do end up replacing lower control arms, and are buying aftermarket control arms, I suggest getting the Ford part number for your VIN (either from parts.ford.com or by calling the dealer) and cross-referencing from that. When I did mine, I ordered the arms listed for a AWD 2010 and they didn't fit, after some back and forth with the manufacturer, we discovered that my 2010 SHO actually has a FWD subframe under it. They said they've seen Ford do this on MY transition cars before.

 

[DouglasB_SHO]

On my 2011 SHO, at 105K miles with some solid "clunk" sounds up front and back, I replaced front struts (complete assembly), lower control arms & bushings, stabilizer links, outer tire rod ends, rear shocks, rear stabilizer links, and rear upper control arms. My EcoBeast is now as solid and silent as it was when I bought it with only 18K miles on it!