Loss of power

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Shhoebow

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Yesterday my sho all the sudden lost all power I had just under a 1/4 tank of gas and could not even pass a minivan that was cutting me off..
I noticed that my oar was +96 and was knocking horribly at about +7.25
The few days prior my kr and oar has been around -50 to -96 on the same gas...
I Then I restarted and the car was fine I'm running (AO gearhead tune,gearhead intercooler Catless thunderstorm DPS and MagnaFlow catback) and all the little stuff...
It's been 3,000 mi since I reloaded my tune. I've done data logs in the past five of them. I left Matt from gearhead for now because I only get a few sentences out of them when he reads my logs, I don't matt at all because I know I'll just get it quick answer that doesn't have much information behind it
I do add 1 gallon of e85 with 93 oct. every other tank of gas I was told that I could do up to 2 gallons If I wanted to but I don't adjust do it to keep my KR good and OAR above -50

My question is has anyone experienced this and does anyone know what the rear fuel pressure should sit at mine currently at peaks at around 16.
And what else should I look at to see if I have enough fuel coming in I have a livewire device and I run data logs and look at them all the time but I have nothing to compare it to. Thank you in advance for reading this book.


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SLO_SHO

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Sorry to hear about your loss of power, not sure what cause that episode. I also tune with Matt and he has been nothing but great, answering my questions late at night and adjusting tunes as needed. Sometimes I get short responses as well, when looking for a longer explanation however he did answer the questions I had. I could only imagine how many emails and logs he has to sort through each day. Keeping it to the minimum says him time and that way can help others more. Torrie, from unleashed does it that way as well. If you don't get a response you're looking for, you could always ask him to go more into detail.
As far as fuel pressure goes, 16 is good...ideally you don't want it to drop below 12 , I hold about 15.5 on my e30 tune from GH with a pressure drop at shifts at about 12. Anything below 11 is dangerous so be cautious . Matt is very good about watching the fuel pressure in logs.
Best of luck!

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Shhoebow

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I noticed some errors in my post I meant to say I don't like to bother Matt and that I just want to leave him alone because He is busy all the time and doesn't have much time. Does matter fact I won't keep him more than a couple of minutes and if I need something I'm very careful and respectful of his time.
I have nothing but good things to say He even called me one time when I first received his tune. Now that I can put that aside.

Im trying to find information and wanting to learn more about fuel and data and logging I've been watching all my numbers Even if I don't know what some of the numbers mean I really want to learn more. With Matt's Auto Oct. tune I was able to learn a lot but I still would like to know how all the numbers correlate with each other kind of in the way that OAR and KR are a direct relationship..

Thank you for your answer, I guess I read somewhere that someone had 20 PSI rear fuel pressure and that kind of made me think that was normal.


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SHOdded

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If you post one of your most recent logs here, we could look at it independently and try to help figure out what might be going on.

Going by the profile pic, you have a 2013+ SHO? There was an issue with that generation both with the low pressure fuel pump and the control module, either of which could be faulty. Have you checked owner.ford.com to see what FSA's are currently active (under recalls)? Take a pic of the control module you currently have (under back seat, driver side), and post it please.

Common causes of loss of power otherwise include faulty wastegate actuators, hoses blowing off the solenoid atop the manifold, damaged BOV seals, etc. Check your intercooler for buildup. If it has a ton of crud in it, you need to a) empty it, and b) take steps to contain it. Plus clean your IAT and MAP sensors with MAF Sensor Cleaner.
 

Shhoebow

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If you post one of your most recent logs here, we could look at it independently and try to help figure out what might be going on.

Going by the profile pic, you have a 2013+ SHO? There was an issue with that generation both with the low pressure fuel pump and the control module, either of which could be faulty. Have you checked owner.ford.com to see what FSA's are currently active (under recalls)? Take a pic of the control module you currently have (under back seat, driver side), and post it please.

Common causes of loss of power otherwise include faulty wastegate actuators, hoses blowing off the solenoid atop the manifold, damaged BOV seals, etc. Check your intercooler for buildup. If it has a ton of crud in it, you need to a) empty it, and b) take steps to contain it. Plus clean your IAT and MAP sensors with MAF Sensor Cleaner.
well I just got back and did my best to give you all a great log but How do I upload a data log when i try it wont let me
 

Shhoebow

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Only thing I could do was load a picture unfortunately it will not take the file type. Thanks for taking the time!! 4f7d5c4a97e9954b8f1d5a3e5780d4b3

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SHOdded

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I would upload it to a google file share (i.e., google drive) then link it back here. OR (assuming this is a csv file) upload to a spreadsheet sharing site https://www.zoho.com/sheet/ that you can link back here.
 

SLO_SHO

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Only thing I could do was load a picture unfortunately it will not take the file type. Thanks for taking the time!! 4f7d5c4a97e9954b8f1d5a3e5780d4b3

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Just from a quick glance, I would say you aren't putting the best fuel in. Your OAR is pretty horrible, which could cause knock. What type of fuel are you using, other than 1 gal of e85 every other tank?

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Shhoebow

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Here's the file also If anyone can see anything That would cause my OAR to fluctuate wildly I would really appreciate it
I did send an email to Matt and a few logs all he said was and a quote. "Your OAR is positive holy crap"
If anyone could help That would be great in I would be grateful !!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FzPjb9QGh-hyXnj56yi4OUywDGcJRgi_/view?usp=drivesdk7abfdcb7d3cb55198a07c7c6d737d601

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Shhoebow

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Just from a quick glance, I would say you aren't putting the best fuel in. Your OAR is pretty horrible, which could cause knock. What type of fuel are you using, other than 1 gal of e85 every other tank?

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Shell 93 and 1 gal of E85 from speedway. I only use BP or Shell.
It's a 2014 and I don't use this vehicle as a daily driver its in the garage most of the week. And is maintained very well, It just turned over 80,000 mi while creating this log so I'm starting to get up there in miles.

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SLO_SHO

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Here's the file also If anyone can see anything That would cause my OAR to fluctuate wildly I would really appreciate it
I did send an email to Matt and a few logs all he said was and a quote. "Your OAR is positive holy crap"
If anyone could help That would be great in I would be grateful !!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FzPjb9QGh-hyXnj56yi4OUywDGcJRgi_/view?usp=drivesdk7abfdcb7d3cb55198a07c7c6d737d601

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I can't get the best look at the log(my phone won't open the file on the program I want it to) but could get a little info out of it. I use the same fuel, BP 93 with 2 gallons of e85 per full fill up, however I'm on an e30 mix right now so I have a bit more. When I first switched to e30 my OAR was horse $&@# but did take some time to learn. Have you tried putting it in 5 or 6th gear manually and lugging the car from 30-90mph? It will trip your computer in the car to learn the OAR.

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Shhoebow

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I can't get the best look at the log(my phone won't open the file on the program I want it to) but could get a little info out of it. I use the same fuel, BP 93 with 2 gallons of e85 per full fill up, however I'm on an e30 mix right now so I have a bit more. When I first switched to e30 my OAR was horse $&@# but did take some time to learn. Have you tried putting it in 5 or 6th gear manually and lugging the car from 30-90mph? It will trip your computer in the car to learn the OAR.

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thank you for looking and Yes when I'm on the highway I can coax the OAR to learn but when Im off the highway it kicks back to positive.
I'm going over everything I can to narrow down what's going on even my boost does not look like it normally does I cant say I know a whole lot but was told by a someone that it's starving for fuel I don't know if that's the case or not and what an I looking at to determine low fuel ? If anyone knows thanks in advance for the help!

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Johnbigdog

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Fuel rail pressure and fuel rail pressure desired can tell you of your h.p. fuel system is working as the pcm wants. HOWEVER the fuel rail pressure sensor can be biased causing the engine to run lean. The engine can run off the pressure from the electric fuel pump if you disconect the volume control valve on the high pressure pump. A mechanical gauge should be within 15 of the FLP sensor and about 35-45 psi to the FRP sensor.

The Octane Adjust is an output of how much knock the pcm sees, so if your knocking you better answer the door before the door gets broken down.
 

SHOdded

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Were you driving in Sport mode, with O/D off? RPMs seem pretty high for 50 mph at 2,300. You are sure the knock sensor wires are not rubbing against the block/chafing? Still no codes, perhaps for underboost?

Try a KAM reset by pulling the neg batt cable for 40+ minutes, and log results. If still no go, you may want to flash to stock, log the results. If all is well, reload the GH tune and yes, log the results :)
 

SM105K

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Were you driving in Sport mode, with O/D off? RPMs seem pretty high for 50 mph at 2,300. You are sure the knock sensor wires are not rubbing against the block/chafing? Still no codes, perhaps for underboost?

Try a KAM reset by pulling the neg batt cable for 40+ minutes, and log results. If still no go, you may want to flash to stock, log the results. If all is well, reload the GH tune and yes, log the results :)

I agree with this. However, you can do a KAM reset within the LiveWire itself. Also check the knock sensor wires.

I personally would be not getting fuel from either of those stations. I would run it out, and then put half a tank of Chevron or QT (if there are any near you) and see if that fixes the problem.
 

SHOdded

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I prefer the old fashioned way LOL. That is your best guarantee it is executed properly. As vehicles age, I find the "touchless" method to not be so reliable.
 

Shhoebow

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Were you driving in Sport mode, with O/D off? RPMs seem pretty high for 50 mph at 2,300. You are sure the knock sensor wires are not rubbing against the block/chafing? Still no codes, perhaps for underboost?

Try a KAM reset by pulling the neg batt cable for 40+ minutes, and log results. If still no go, you may want to flash to stock, log the results. If all is well, reload the GH tune and yes, log the results :)
I was driving normally I never use sport mode, Yes the RPMs were a little high It's been a little funky lately..
What I ended up doing was reloading the gear head tune and what happened was after around 20 miles My OAR returned to -96 it has been there ever since not one single hiccup. Despite all this I did go over everything That was recommended in this thread and then some.
I appreciate the help guys!
So now I know next time it starts running funky I'm going to reload the tune.
It almost makes me think when I put the cat back system on this is what started it all and reloading the tune is just what it needed I guess it's just not learning past a certain level of parameters after a certain amount of miles I know it's vague but I know very little about the brain in this sho

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diego d

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I had a loss of power last week, took it to the dealer and found out it was the Waste Gate solenoid. Luckily i have B 2 B warranty, they replaced the part and now the problem is gone :)
 

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