New and improved! And looking for newer and improvedier ;-)

[TroyF]

Thanks to everyone that offered advice on how to get moving on beefing up my 2015 SHO. I dyno'd last weekend and found 320 HP and torque at the wheels, on the best pull. From there, installed cold air intake, new thermostat, a 3BAR and applied the Livernois SHO 91 octane tune (impossible to find 93 octane in Colorado). I'll dyno again soon to see how much good it all did...

A gearhead buddy of mine advises that I need to get under the dash to see what kind of boost/knock retard I'm facing, if any. Wondering this group's experience/recommendations on the following ideas? Be gentle, I'm pretty much a newbie to all of this:

- "you need an OBD link under dash, meaning a bluetooth scan tool"
- "in the Mazda Miata world (my buddy's world) everyone uses BAFX products 34T5" ... does anyone know this device, or is there something better for the SHO?
- " you need a good KR alarm. Torque Pro for Android is the best monitoring system."

All help appreciated, even if you say forget all of that and do something different... I think I do see the value in measuring the boost, KR however?

Troy

 

[Jeff2017]

Is that completely stock? If so the driveline loss is less that I would have guessed.

 

[krewat]

I've used both an older SCT X3 on my 2013, and on the 2013 and 2016 an el-cheepo OBD-II bluetooth device, to monitor all sorts of things.

That bluetooth device is indeed a BAFX: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS

It even worked with Forscan to modify my as-built data (to turn off the double honk, and enable the AWD gauge for example).

 

[TroyF]

Is that completely stock? If so the driveline loss is less that I would have guessed.

Yessir, all stock. Dyno'd it on an AWD belt driven Dynometer.

 

[TroyF]

I've used both an older SCT X3 on my 2013, and on the 2013 and 2016 an el-cheepo OBD-II bluetooth device, to monitor all sorts of things.

That bluetooth device is indeed a BAFX: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS

It even worked with Forscan to modify my as-built data (to turn off the double honk, and enable the AWD gauge for example).

Thank you!

 

[glockcoma]

A little more pricey, but I've had good luck with this.
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-426...rd_wg=Vxnxj&psc=1&refRID=B9XME5EGX61BRPASHC4C

My first 2 bafx arrived DOA. YMMV

 

[rubydist]

Is that completely stock? If so the driveline loss is less that I would have guessed.

Well, you need to compare apples to apples. He's in Colorado. Dyno tests are corrected to a standard temperature and air pressure. Here in Colorado, we have approximately 12% less air pressure than sea level (~12.9 psia v. ~14.7 psia), so if the dyno actually reads 100 hp, it would get corrected to 100 / .88 = 114 hp here in CO. That is all good when you are testing naturally aspirated engines. However, when you test supercharged or turbocharged engines, that correction is not necessarily valid, because the turbo will cram more air into the engine until it gets to whatever the boost limit is. Let's take an example of an engine with boost limit of 20 psi. Here in CO, the engine is seeing 20 + 12.9 = 32.9 psia. At sea level it would be seeing 34.7 psia. That is only a 5% difference. So, if the dyno operator corrects at the "normal" 12%, the resulting horsepower will be overstated compared to what the engine would actually produce at sea level.

If you look at the dyno sheet, it will typically say something like "corrected to STP" or "uncorrected".

 

[TroyF]

Well, you need to compare apples to apples. He's in Colorado. Dyno tests are corrected to a standard temperature and air pressure. Here in Colorado, we have approximately 12% less air pressure than sea level (~12.9 psia v. ~14.7 psia), so if the dyno actually reads 100 hp, it would get corrected to 100 / .88 = 114 hp here in CO. That is all good when you are testing naturally aspirated engines. However, when you test supercharged or turbocharged engines, that correction is not necessarily valid, because the turbo will cram more air into the engine until it gets to whatever the boost limit is. Let's take an example of an engine with boost limit of 20 psi. Here in CO, the engine is seeing 20 + 12.9 = 32.9 psia. At sea level it would be seeing 34.7 psia. That is only a 5% difference. So, if the dyno operator corrects at the "normal" 12%, the resulting horsepower will be overstated compared to what the engine would actually produce at sea level.

If you look at the dyno sheet, it will typically say something like "corrected to STP" or "uncorrected".

Exactly right. Max HP and Max Torque numbers are both "w/ WCF" (weather correction factor).

 

[TroyF]

A little more pricey, but I've had good luck with this.
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-426...rd_wg=Vxnxj&psc=1&refRID=B9XME5EGX61BRPASHC4C

My first 2 bafx arrived DOA. YMMV

Just bought that one, great reviews. Thanks!