Motorcraft AGSP32PP spark plugs NOS

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itwonder

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Greensales has 716 formerly rare NOS Motorcraft AGSP32PP spark plugs. I bought 12; $4.00 each. Very nice folks to deal with and shipping was reasonable. Phone works better than email. I'm tempted to be selfish and buy them all, but I'm not that kind of guy and I hope others on here will not scarf them up to profit on either. 716 should keep the SHO community going for a while:). I can't imagine what corner of what dusty warehouse has had them all these years.

BTW, they also have the original rear control arm knuckle-end bolts.

AGSP32PP
 

jimtash

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Nice find but my personal choice is plain copper Autolites simply because there's no better conductor. Plus they put less strain on the ignition system.

The V-8 gets platinum plugs because the rear bank is pain to get to. If it weren't, copper plugs would be in it too.
 

Banshee

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Nice find but my personal choice is plain copper Autolites simply because there's no better conductor. Plus they put less strain on the ignition system.

The V-8 gets platinum plugs because the rear bank is pain to get to. If it weren't, copper plugs would be in it too.
If the copper plugs are better why put platinum plugs in the v8 to start with? What I mean is when I buy an older car like the v8. Why wouldn't I want a longer lasting platinum plug since I'm probably not going to change them again for giggles. What are the pros and cons?
 

jimtash

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There's no better conductor than copper. They ignite easier but it comes at the cost of longevity. Platinum and Iridium last longer but are actually harder to ignite and place more strain on the ignition system. Forced induction cars can't use them reliably because the sheer volume and pressure of the air entering the combustion chamber actually prevents them from firing at all. Yet copper works just fine so that's something to think about.

My V-6 is easy to change plugs on. An extension easily handles the rear. The V-8 SHO requires the removal of the surge tank which includes loosening the clamps, removing the EGR tube and the hardest part, removing the bolts from the rear braces on the tank itself. Then unbolting the individual coils and finally the plugs. And for some odd reason after replacing plugs in a V-8, most owners experience a failed coil soon after and usually on the rear. My take is a a combination of heat plus new platinum plugs don't do them any favors.
 
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thegreatbriguy

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There's no better conductor than copper. They ignite easier but it comes at the cost of longevity. Platinum and Iridium last longer but are actually harder to ignite and place more strain on the ignition system. Forced induction cars can't use them reliably because the sheer volume and pressure of the air entering the combustion chamber actually prevents them from firing at all. Yet copper works just fine so that's something to think about.

My V-6 is easy to change plugs on. An extension easily handles the rear. The V-8 SHO requires the removal of the surge tank which includes loosening the clamps, removing the EGR tube and the hardest part, removing the bolts from the rear braces on the tank itself. Then unbolting the individual coils and finally the plugs. And for some odd reason after replacing plugs in a V-8, most owners experience a failed coil soon after and usually on the rear. My take is a a combination of heat plus new platinum plugs don't do them any favors.

I thought the reason for using the double platinum was the way the SHO fired, up through one plug and down throught the other, that's why there is platinum on both tips. Am i confused about how it fires? do copper plugs have the copper on both sides, if so, then it doesn't matter if what i say is correct or not.
 

jimtash

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No, the only difference is that copper plugs will wear faster.

The plugs on each coil bank fire at the same time. One cylinder is on its exhaust stroke I believe while the other one is on its power stroke.
 

turbo79

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Here's a bit of technical info. from the the old SHOTimes site. Basically, if you use plugs made to SAE specs. rather than the ISO specs. that the original Motorcraft plugs were made to, you may be exposing your plug wells to dirt and moisture because SAE spec. plugs for SHO are 2.3 mm longer than ISO spec. plugs.

The original Motorcraft plugs were made by Denso to ISO specs.

For what it's worth:

The Motorcraft AGSP32PP spark plug was designed to the ISO specifications, not the SAE design which makes it's over all size approximately 2.3mm shorter from the gasket to the top of the contact. This is why most name brand spark plugs designed to the SAE specifications do not work in the SHO motor. The same can be said for Honda, Toyota, Mazda or most other Asian designed or produced engine. In fact the Motorcraft AGSP32PP spark plug was not designed or manufacture by Autolite (that's why the APP3924 plugs don't fit), it was supplied by Denso, formally known as Nippondenso. Because of this there are other spark plugs out there that will fit the SHO engine and the well seal spark plug boot and still run perfectly. This is good for several reasons. First, just in case you can't find the Motorcraft spark plugs you can use either a Denso p/n PK16PR-L11 or a NGK p/n PFR5G-11, both are double platinum equivalent spark plugs.
 

Greg Corcoran

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Greensales has 716 formerly rare NOS Motorcraft AGSP32PP spark plugs. I bought 12; $4.00 each. Very nice folks to deal with and shipping was reasonable. Phone works better than email.
greensales.com comes up as "website available" so I take it they are kaput, but I need plugs!!
I found out today the AGSP32PP are obsolete, and the supercede Motorcraft plug measure 1/16" TOO TALL, just like the Autolite. The wikisho and this site still seem to recommend AGSP32PP...?
The Denso and NGK are also taller than the Motorcraft AGSP32PP, but slightly shorter than the Autolite. What are folks using now?
 

Greg Corcoran

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OK Thanks Zoomlater, now you've given me options, and I found shosource.... $30.60 per plug!!! Wowza! For what it's worth, although I didn't believe it at first, but my daughter said to go to Amazon. They were there for around $18.50 a plug. I already had the 6 plugs in my cart on ShoSource when the Amazon idea surfaced just in the nick of time....(There are now 6 less on Amazon).

11 years ago when last I owned a SHO there was a guy named Vadim and a guy names Josh (?) Textiera who had all the good go fast parts. And my local favorite, Gary Morrell, who installed my Quaiffe, sub frame connectors, and other goodies. Are they still around, and are they still the prefered vendors? Once I finish the 60K the DPO started, but never finished (says he did timing belt, water pump, crank and cam sensor, but not shims, or plugs, or wires). I hope the plug well seals, plugs and wires cure the horrible stumble and surge when cold and hessitation from 2500 - 3500 when warmed up. Original plugs are still there with 0.060 - 0.066" gaps and the plug wells have a few mL of oil in them... once I sort the engine, then I want to install a hi-flow Y-pipe, sub-frame connectors, and an LSD (Wavetrac is now the prefered LSD?).

Greg
 

itwonder

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Greensales is not kaput: http://www.greensalescompany.com/

710 in stock, so they are not exactly flying off the shelves. Uhh...they are about 4 bucks apiece from Greensales Company. Whatever floats your boat, but I would return that Amazon order.
 
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zoomlater

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OK Thanks Zoomlater, now you've given me options, and I found shosource.... $30.60 per plug!!! Wowza! For what it's worth, although I didn't believe it at first, but my daughter said to go to Amazon. They were there for around $18.50 a plug. I already had the 6 plugs in my cart on ShoSource when the Amazon idea surfaced just in the nick of time....(There are now 6 less on Amazon).

11 years ago when last I owned a SHO there was a guy named Vadim and a guy names Josh (?) Textiera who had all the good go fast parts. And my local favorite, Gary Morrell, who installed my Quaiffe, sub frame connectors, and other goodies. Are they still around, and are they still the prefered vendors? Once I finish the 60K the DPO started, but never finished (says he did timing belt, water pump, crank and cam sensor, but not shims, or plugs, or wires). I hope the plug well seals, plugs and wires cure the horrible stumble and surge when cold and hessitation from 2500 - 3500 when warmed up. Original plugs are still there with 0.060 - 0.066" gaps and the plug wells have a few mL of oil in them... once I sort the engine, then I want to install a hi-flow Y-pipe, sub-frame connectors, and an LSD (Wavetrac is now the prefered LSD?).

Greg


It looks like you get six plugs for $30.60, from the Shosource site (Matt can probably confirm this)

Tech Notes

Includes 6 Double Platinum Plugs

As far as vendors goes, Shosource, Shonut, RCM are the vendors of most of the sho parts available. Used Quaifes and Wavetracs pop up now and then, but there hasn't been a new ones available for awhile
 
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Devin

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OK Thanks Zoomlater, now you've given me options, and I found shosource.... $30.60 per plug!!! Wowza! For what it's worth, although I didn't believe it at first, but my daughter said to go to Amazon. They were there for around $18.50 a plug. I already had the 6 plugs in my cart on ShoSource when the Amazon idea surfaced just in the nick of time....(There are now 6 less on Amazon).
...

Greg

You either have 36 plugs on their way to your house or you just spent three times as much per plug than at shosource.
 

luigisho

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OK Thanks Zoomlater, now you've given me options, and I found shosource.... $30.60 per plug!!! Wowza! For what it's worth, although I didn't believe it at first, but my daughter said to go to Amazon. They were there for around $18.50 a plug. I already had the 6 plugs in my cart on ShoSource when the Amazon idea surfaced just in the nick of time....(There are now 6 less on Amazon).

11 years ago when last I owned a SHO there was a guy named Vadim and a guy names Josh (?) Textiera who had all the good go fast parts. And my local favorite, Gary Morrell, who installed my Quaiffe, sub frame connectors, and other goodies. Are they still around, and are they still the prefered vendors?
Greg

Josh T at ShoNut is still around. Vadim moved on to other cars years ago and left in a not pristine ******* match with some members-- although he always helped me when I was in a jamb, over the phone, when he had better things to do on the other side of the country.
Haven't seen Gary post in quite some time. Always loved his knowledgeable posts. Maybe he will still do auto stuff locally. I'm sure there are still some members that have access to his email address somewhere.
 

Greg Corcoran

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OK - thanks for all the input! And clarification on the $30.60 price.
I ended up being requested to cancel my Amazon orders by the vendors because one said "the item failed our QC check" and they did not have a date when a replacement would be available. The other mentioned it was out of stock at their supplier and suggested if I 'didn't want to wait for an unknown amount of time' I should cancel the order. Both annoyed me because it plays with their metrics making them look better than they really are...
... So I just got my box from Green Supply Company in the mail today. I got 12 just to be safe since I plan to keep this car quite a while if it is as good as my old SHO. Found 2 NOS boxes of ignition wires in eBay, bought both for same reason. The one from Canada came today, the one from the US isn't here yet. I borrowed a set of shim tools and shims from a former CSHOC member yesterday, got the intake and valve cover gasket sets from NAPA last week, so I'm ready to go as long as I remember the sequence how to do the shim measurement.
Today I hope to rig up an external relay to run the low speed cooling fan until I can find a real "D" code CCRM. Note - NAPA (and probably others) show the Echlin AR763 is a replacement for the F3DF-12B577-AA (a.k.a. 'D code' CCRM) but it does not run the fuel pump. Since I couldn't start the car, I don't know if anything else in that module worked or not.

Greg
 

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