914-SHO Motor teardown & inspection

[3d914]

OK guys, decided to tear down the motor and figure out what gives with the poor running behavior, valve noise, and now what sounds like rod noise. I'll track my progress here.

Just started with the exhaust today so that I can get it moved to the back of the garage & my wife can park her mini.

When I pulled the exhaust manifolds they were all dry. Plenty of black, but dry.

I inspected the exhaust ports in the heads and noticed following:

• Cyl #2 was partially soaked & black
• Cyl #5 was fully soaked & black
• All other cylinders were dry

 

[probe_racer]

good luck i have an sho engine that has been sitting for over 2 years and also im worried about the sticking piston rings, i might go your route too and dissasemble it too just to make sure that everything is fine.

keep us update and good luck :wave:

 

[Shovert]

Just a idea. Could 2 and 5 have injectors leaking or stuck open. Just a thought I have no logic to base one except your comment on being soaked. If not already down. Maybe move injectors and see if soaking moves. Maurice

 

[3d914]

Just a idea. Could 2 and 5 have injectors leaking or stuck open. Just a thought I have no logic to base one except your comment on being soaked. If not already down. Maybe move injectors and see if soaking moves. Maurice

Maurice, I'll test those two individually once I pull the intake off. I also noticed that all the plugs looked like this. Motor still seems to be running rich.

 

[3d914]

OK, got it tore down to the heads. So I decided to double check the timing before going any further. Tell me that I didn't F#%^# this up! :banghd: :banghd: :banghd:

First step - the cam positions look identical to the pic in the book. The dots are exactly at the upper face of the head and opposite each other.

Step two - when I set the timing I aligned it based on the book and this picture. Everything still looks the same. The cam sprockets line up with cover #4 marks. I can't see the mark on the crankshaft but I recall lining the dot up with the belt. So far so good.

Step three - I lined up the crank pulley on the key. Seems like it can only go on one way. But when I look at my pulley I have two white marks. Mine lines up with the mark that is counter clockwise from the other. But this pic and another in the book indicates the other mark should be yellow - and its supposed to line up with the zero on cover #1. Did I screw this up?

 

[rubydist]

it only goes on one way, and if you have the timing belt on correctly (the crank sprocket and the 2 cam sprockets lined up right) then the crank pulley has to be right.

 

[jayro]

Are you talking bout the 2 marks for the crank pulley on the iming belt? If so, one mark is for the 3.2 (ATX tensioner setup) and the other is for the 3.0 (MTX tentioner st up). IIRC the 3.0 MTX mark is the first one when moving clockwise around the belt. If I have it backward someone please jump in.

As far as timing....on the chain connecting the cams there should be 2 lighter links. These links should line up with the timing marks on the sprockets. This, along with the method you posted, insures that the timing between the cams are correct. If the chain is off a tooth the car will run, just be rough and down on power.

 

[jimtash]

Cam timing can also be verified using the Rotunda cam position tool. It slips onto the flats at the rear of the cam when they are correct.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Forget about the marks on the belt. Line up the dimples of the two front upper sprockets with the bumps on the timing cover backing plate. It's hard to keep one of the cams in this position because it's on one of its lobes, but it's do-able. Then line up the dimple on the crank sprocket with the bump at 5 o'clock on the oil pump. Put on the belt with NO SLACK in the belt going clockwise from the upper left sprocket to the bottom crank sprocket. It is important that there is no slack on this, the "timing side" of the belt. The back side can have slack; the tensioner will take it up and keep the belt from slapping.

Once the tensioner is released to do its job, THEN re-check to make sure that those three timing dimples are still lined up with their respective marks.

On the chain side, make sure the chains are tensioned when you check to see if their dimples are lined up with the valve cover mating surfaces.

Tom

 

[3d914]

Are you talking bout the 2 marks for the crank pulley on the iming belt? If so, one mark is for the 3.2 (ATX tensioner setup) and the other is for the 3.0 (MTX tentioner st up). IIRC the 3.0 MTX mark is the first one when moving clockwise around the belt. If I have it backward someone please jump in.

jayro, Yes, 2 marks on the pulley. One is supposed to be white (first one) and yellow (second one). The book indicates the second (yellow) mark should line up with zero. (My motor is a 3.2).

As far as timing....on the chain connecting the cams there should be 2 lighter links. These links should line up with the timing marks on the sprockets. This, along with the method you posted, insures that the timing between the cams are correct. If the chain is off a tooth the car will run, just be rough and down on power.

I'll look for the lighter links as a double check, but the cams appear correct as indicated in picture above.

 

[3d914]

Forget about the marks on the belt. Line up the dimples of the two front upper sprockets with the bumps on the timing cover backing plate. It's hard to keep one of the cams in this position because it's on one of its lobes, but it's do-able. Then line up the dimple on the crank sprocket with the bump at 5 o'clock on the oil pump. Put on the belt with NO SLACK in the belt going clockwise from the upper left sprocket to the bottom crank sprocket. It is important that there is no slack on this, the "timing side" of the belt. The back side can have slack; the tensioner will take it up and keep the belt from slapping.

Once the tensioner is released to do its job, THEN re-check to make sure that those three timing dimples are still lined up with their respective marks.

Tom, I'll pull the accessory belt off and check the sprocket & belt. I recall setting this initially. It's just the book contradicts the mark that I'm seeing on the crank pulley.

On the chain side, make sure the chains are tensioned when you check to see if their dimples are lined up with the valve cover mating surfaces.

Tom

I believe they are, but I will double check. Thanks.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Ah, I see where you might have misunderstood me now. The crank PULLEY can only be lined up when the plastic timing covers are on since that is where the timing "CHECK" marks are located. If you're out on the road and want to check timing with a timing light, you use the marks on crank pulley and the timing degrees on the middle plastic timing cover.

The crank SPROCKET, which is what you use to actually "SET" the timing, is under all that foo-foo plastic, has the teeth matching the belt, and has one dimple on the outside face. This method is how you set the timing of the valve train to the crank and is what I was talking about earlier.

Tom

 

[jayro]

jayro, Yes, 2 marks on the pulley. One is supposed to be white (first one) and yellow (second one). The book indicates the second (yellow) mark should line up with zero. (My motor is a 3.2).



I'll look for the lighter links as a double check, but the cams appear correct as indicated in picture above.

Are you using the 3.2 timing tensioner etc? Mine is a 3.2 mtx.....so it is the 3.2 block with all the 3.0 accessories and timing set up. This means I time it like a 3.0.

And as stated by OffRoad Sho, you pull the covers to time it. There is a dot on the crank sprocket that you line up with a mark on the oil pump housing.

 

[3d914]

Ah, I see where you might have misunderstood me now. The crank PULLEY can only be lined up when the plastic timing covers are on since that is where the timing "CHECK" marks are located. If you're out on the road and want to check timing with a timing light, you use the marks on crank pulley and the timing degrees on the middle plastic timing cover.

The crank SPROCKET, which is what you use to actually "SET" the timing, is under all that foo-foo plastic, has the teeth matching the belt, and has one dimple on the outside face. This method is how you set the timing of the valve train to the crank and is what I was talking about earlier.

Tom

Tom, thanks for clarifying. I understood what you were saying, but translated it incorrectly.

Working on making a fixture to hold the crank in place while I loosen the bolt.

 

[3d914]

jayro, yes all 3.2 with single accessory belt.

 

[jimtash]

Tom, thanks for clarifying. I understood what you were saying, but translated it incorrectly.

Working on making a fixture to hold the crank in place while I loosen the bolt.

There's a simple substitute that I use as a flywheel holder if you want to try. The door striker bolted up to the rear and set in between the flywheel teeth.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wc...age//713/large/5706688_rnb_38445_pri_larg.jpg

 

[rubydist]

that is beautiful in its simplicity and low cost.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Tom, thanks for clarifying. I understood what you were saying, but translated it incorrectly.

Working on making a fixture to hold the crank in place while I loosen the bolt.

The breaker-bar-and-starter-bump method should work on your setup, I would think.

Tom

 

[intimdatr]

Rope in the cylinder and breaker bar is what i prefer to do. A little less chaos is possible. Lol

 

[3d914]

There's a simple substitute that I use as a flywheel holder if you want to try. The door striker bolted up to the rear and set in between the flywheel teeth.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wc...age//713/large/5706688_rnb_38445_pri_larg.jpg

Thanks for the info. I don't have a SHO door striker, but I do use something similar. Unfortunately I still have the tranny and adapter plate attached, so I can't use the flywheel teeth.