914-SHO Oil Pressure Check - Startup procedure

[3d914]

Getting down to the wire here on bench test of the 914-SHO motor. I have two startup tests on my check list; 1) Oil pressure check, 2) Base idle adjustment.

Here's my procedure for the Oil pressure check. Let me know if I'm missing anything (new to SHO motors).

Pre-start check list:

1. Remove spark plugs to ease engine rotation
2. Remove 4-wire connector from coil pack
3. Check wire from oil pressure sensor to idiot light
4. Check oil level

Starting Sequence:

1. Key in Run - oil press light is ON
2. Key in Start and cranking
3. Oil press light should go out when min oil pressure is reached (or 1 minute - which ever is first)
4. Turn ignition OFF
5. Re-install plugs and coil pack connector
6. Restart motor and allow to run - oil pressure light should be OFF

My other question is about the Base idle adjustment. Since the idle speed controller is disconnected - does the adjustment have to be made with motor at normal operating temp?

TIA

 

[TimboSHO]

You wouldn't have to remove all of the spark plugs unless you are running higher compression (to save starter).

Make sure the oil pressure light works by turning key on and seeing it come on during the light check.

I'm not sure if the oil light will go off while cranking when min. oil pressure is reached. I usually just do it for 20-30 seconds. I think I did it for around a minute when I rebuilt the motor.

Base idle should be set when it reaches operating temp. Of course, if it's way off you can adjust it a little before that. Are you planning on connecting the IAC at some point?

 

[hawkeye18]

You can just disconnect the DIS if you want to crank the car without starting it. You can also just push the throttle all the way down - this will cut off fuel. As long as you don't have leaky injectors, the car won't start.

 

[3d914]

Base idle should be set when it reaches operating temp. Of course, if it's way off you can adjust it a little before that. Are you planning on connecting the IAC at some point?

Timbo, Yes the IAC is installed and connected. It will be disconnected for idle adjustment though.

 

[rubydist]

has the throttle plate stop been messed with? cause if not there is no reason for base idle to be wrong.

you will need it at operating temperature to set it. it should idle at around 500+ with the iac disconnected when warm.

 

[3d914]

has the throttle plate stop been messed with? cause if not there is no reason for base idle to be wrong.

you will need it at operating temperature to set it. it should idle at around 500+ with the iac disconnected when warm.

Don't know for sure. This was pieced together from different used parts. Rather set it now and not have to mess with it once the engines in the car.

Thanks again guys.

 

[Shovert]

I primed my engine first. First could not afford the special pressurized oil primers. I took a NEW hand pump sprayers [The type a person uses to spray a garden]. First put gauge on it and can pressure it to 20psi by hand. I fiqured that was enough. Made up a hose and hooked to the oil pressure gauge port and put the oil in it and pressurized it into the engine. Since I bought a small one [probably never use it again] I had to do it twice. Maurice
http://www.lowes.com/pd_285868-1306...=1&currentURL=?Ntt=roundup+sprayer&facetInfo=

 

[3d914]

Maurice, Good idea. I suspect a pressure-fed brake-bleeder would work much the same.

 

[3d914]

While we're on the subject of procedures - is there one written up for removing air from engine coolant system?

 

[Phoenix]

While we're on the subject of procedures - is there one written up for removing air from engine coolant system?

On my shogun , it was very hard to do it since the rad is up front and both tubes are under the car. So in this version 2.0 , I hooked up a pressure tank in the engine compartment , and make sure its higher then the highest point where theres coolant passing in the engine. As a pressure venting vessel , I used a 2000+ taurus tank , it can pressurised and it looks good. Rockauto has them brand new for 30$. Theres also some racier ones on summit and stuff for 100+$ that does the same job.

 

[Shovert]

I used a basic Mustang radiator system. I jacked up front of car, radiator higher than motor. I then disconnected the small line at throttle body to let air out. Same basic way I had to do on my other Mustang.
3d914 nice idea, I didn't own a brake bleed system either. Maurice

 

[3d914]

OK, here she is ready for the pre-start check-out. I'm waiting on a filler & T connector to close off the PSP, but other than that everything's ready to go. I'll post more pics in my project thread.

 

[Shovert]

Some other advice here. Can a person "cap" the power steering pump? Or does he need a loop of line and a way to fill? unknown to me. Or is that the way you are doing it. I'm confused. Maurice

 

[3d914]

Maurice, I'm planning on a loop with a fill cap. Since there is no power steering, the fluid is only used as a lubricant for the pump - should be a no-brainer.

I'm actually considering for the final install to replace the pump with an idler of some kind.