Code 332, car dies

[rainbeer]

I searched here on this code 332 and I have tried just about everything people have said but I still get this code and the car will suddenly stall and not restart sometimes for over an hour. CEL is on. Doesnt happen everyday but happens enough. Engine cranks but no start. Very frustrating especially in Cincinnati traffic.

Here is what I've checked: vacuum lines, flow tubes

Here is what I've replaced: the DPFE (EGR sensor), EGR vacuum solenoid, BAP sensor, EGR Valve and then finally a known good PCM.

 

[General Geoff]

maybe it's not related to that code at all. I know when my car refused to start, none of the codes it threw were actually related to why it wouldn't start.

Is the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to restart it (and it doesn't)? If not, try jumping the EEC-IV diagnostic port fuel pump test lead. If that doesn't run the fuel pump, check for continuity between the CCRM fuel pump power out wire and the inertia switch in the trunk.

 

[rainbeer]

Yes the fuel pump primes, I can hear it. I have checked for fuel, spark and air. I'm starting to think maybe its the crank sensor, but I thought a bad crank sensor would result in a "start/no start" condition and wouldnt cause a "stall out" condition.

 

[General Geoff]

More importantly than that, it would throw a code for bad crank position sensor.

The only other issue I can think of that might not throw a code specifically and cause an intermittant problem is a bad coil pack. Might be giving enough spark to verify for testing, but not enough to run reliably...?

 

[SHOdded]

Check the DIS: connections, ground, heatsink paste, etc. Did you do any work on the car recently? Any unusual sounds/smells while cranking?

 

[rainbeer]

More importantly than that, it would throw a code for bad crank position sensor.

The only other issue I can think of that might not throw a code specifically and cause an intermittant problem is a bad coil pack. Might be giving enough spark to verify for testing, but not enough to run reliably...?

Yes I thought it would throw a code for the crank sensor too, but I also have a 98 3.4L and it wouldnt start and the only code I got was the 0412 which has to do with the air pump. Turns out it was the crank sensor after all. I'm still dealing with the 0412 code on the V8 discussion board :banghd:

 

[rainbeer]

Check the DIS: connections, ground, heatsink paste, etc. Did you do any work on the car recently? Any unusual sounds/smells while cranking?

View attachment 1262

Is this the DIS? Sorry still learning, these cars are fairly new to me.

 

[rainbeer]

View attachment 1262

Is this the DIS? Sorry still learning, these cars are fairly new to me.

No strange sounds or smells when cranking.

 

[SHOdded]

Yup

that's the one.

View attachment 1262

Is this the DIS? Sorry still learning, these cars are fairly new to me.

 

[rainbeer]

Checked the DIS and the connections are good, ground okay and there was a good amount of heatsink under the module. Car has been running okay, but I still have code 0332 and this has happened before where it will run okay for a bit, then unexpectedly go into fits of dying on me and not wanting to restart until I wait 30 mins or sometimes up to a few hours. I've replaced just about everything I can think of concerning the EGR. Still wondering about the crankshaft sensor? But, like I said before I didnt think this sensor would cause the car to stall just result in a no start condition.

 

[zak]

EGR issues will cause rough running, and/or poor fuel mileage, but not a no start. Your symptoms sound like a crank sensor on the way out. Make sure your water pump isn't leaking onto it.

 

[rainbeer]

EGR issues will cause rough running, and/or poor fuel mileage, but not a no start. Your symptoms sound like a crank sensor on the way out. Make sure your water pump isn't leaking onto it.

Thats what I thought too. But the car dies on me when driving, the CEL comes on and when I check it the only code I get is the 0332. So I thought maybe this would be the cause of the stall, not the crank sensor. So I guess the question is this and maybe there is no simple answer. Would a EGR problem cause the car to die and then be hard to restart or would a bad crank sensor cause the car to die and not restart? If the crank sensor is going bad would it throw a code?

 

[zak]

Thats what I thought too. But the car dies on me when driving, the CEL comes on and when I check it the only code I get is the 0332. So I thought maybe this would be the cause of the stall, not the crank sensor. So I guess the question is this and maybe there is no simple answer. Would a EGR problem cause the car to die and then be hard to restart or would a bad crank sensor cause the car to die and not restart? If the crank sensor is going bad would it throw a code?

I've lost two crank sensors over the years, and neither of them set a code. In all cases the first symptom was die->no hot restart. Glance at the tach as it dies, if its the crank sensor it should drop to zero before the actual engine rpm does. Hard to catch though.

 

[rainbeer]

I've lost two crank sensors over the years, and neither of them set a code. In all cases the first symptom was die->no hot restart. Glance at the tach as it dies, if its the crank sensor it should drop to zero before the actual engine rpm does. Hard to catch though.

Okay I will check that and most probably change out the sensor this weekend. It is located under the water pump and I have to take the timing cover off correct?

 

[rainbeer]

Okay I found the procedure on here. Thanks everyone and I will let you know if it fixes the stall/no start problem.

 

[rainbeer]

UPDATE: bad crank sensor. Replaced it and after a week and a half no problem with stalling/not starting. Still have code 332 but im ignoring it for now, since I've replaced everything concerning that. Thanks everyone!

 

[glenn-ho]

I had a code 332 and if I remember correctly it was low flow? I removed the throttle body and there is two ports in the intake that run to the egr. one was clogged and the other was almost clogged. You need a flash light to see them. They are on the bottom on both sides of v in the intake. I used a couple of bicycle spokes that I bent up to clear the ports.

In the back of the intake is an allen next to the firewall. Remove it. Stuff some rags under it. Clear the two ports and spray cleaner into the two ports and wait for the cleaner to start coming out clean. then you will know it is clear.