Safety Inspection Failure List

[n2soccer21]

Ok, thanks. Do I have to scrape the rejection sticker off? Will they not just inspect it again? I replaced bulbs and some other things, so it's not the same as before. I've run into this in Missouri, too, where I had 1 LED in the 3rd tail light out. I asked CarX if they would fail it like Dobbs did, they said no, so I had them inspect it; it passed. Are these issues (strut and engine mount) close enough to being in-tact that they would take a look and pass it if I ask them prior? Shoot, I could show them pictures and ask them prior to inspecting it if there's anything wrong with them, right?

 

[itwonder]

Ok, thanks. Do I have to scrape the rejection sticker off? Will they not just inspect it again? I replaced bulbs and some other things, so it's not the same as before. I've run into this in Missouri, too, where I had 1 LED in the 3rd tail light out. I asked CarX if they would fail it like Dobbs did, they said no, so I had them inspect it; it passed. Are these issues (strut and engine mount) close enough to being in-tact that they would take a look and pass it if I ask them prior? Shoot, I could show them pictures and ask them prior to inspecting it if there's anything wrong with them, right?

With the rejection sticker in place, if you go back to the same station and have them reinspect it, then it will cost you just $1.00. Of course, you run the risk they may fail it again if they are in fact an unreasonable station. If you go to another station, you pay the full $16, rejection sticker or no rejection sticker. The reason I have scraped a rejection sticker off is I don't want to taint the second station with what I view as incorrect findings from the first station.

 

[n2soccer21]

I took it to another place for a second opinion, and the mechanic confirmed that the sway bar link needs to be replaced (the rubber boot is gone), the strut is leaking oil and therefore should be replaced, and that the front right engine mount is broken. It's a bummer, but I guess they were correct on the first inspection. This place estimated just under $500 for the sway bar link and engine mount. They said they would pass the strut as-is.

Does that sound reasonable? I really don't feel like replacing the mount on my own. James and Dylan of STL SHO made it look easy, but I don't think I would make it that easy, haha. And I hear the front sway bar links are a pain to replace. Is that right? I'll look to SHOSource for parts, but they showed $156.26 for the mount and $43.60 for the link. Do those seem right? James, where did you get the other mounts you replaced? They were refurbished or something, right? How much are those?

Also, should I go ahead and replace the strut, too? The first place estimated $750 for everything; About how much would the strut cost?

-----Update-----
I just ordered a front engine mount from Autozone for $95, so that's a bit of savings so far.

Thanks!

 

[NoSlo]

The e-brake light can be just a sticky or reluctant switch on the brake pedal; the circuit does nothing but turn on a light when the pedal is pushed down (and this car pops the pedal for you anyway, so it is pointless, but it sounds like it has to work for inspection). Could even be a burned out bulb in the dash.

Fog light bulbs are available, an easy replacement. They burn out all the time, especially if water gets in the fog light. Only two bolts can come loose, likely it is the up/down pivot bolt that just needs a tightening or some lock-washers.

The headlight clips don't become "loose"; unless they are missing, there is no need to replace them. You'll probably need to hunt down what's going on if a headlight actually feels wobbly. Maybe the plastic where one of the three mounting bolts connects to the back of the headlight housing broke. Take off the (annoyingly difficult) clips, pull the headlight, and inspect yourself. They may also be referring to the black front fascia piece, but it would have to be missing many bolts or be broken to be "loose".

This thread has the part list for new end links from Ford: http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=115284. The anti-sway bar end links would be easy, except for rusty bolts. Spray the bolts down with PB blaster every day for a few days before you do the job.

I would recommend taking the car to a u-spray coin op car wash, jack up one side and take off the wheel and inner fender cover, and give the underside of the car and suspension a good dose of foamy engine brite and a spray-down everywhere it's oily, including the weeping strut. This will make working on the car more pleasant (after it's dry), and give the impression of a well-attended vehicle.

Fortunately I don't live in a state with these inspections; it sounds like a racket, forcing customers to shady mechanics who "find" a problem and fail your car if you don't pay them to fix it.

 

[kevinspann]

I took it to another place for a second opinion, and the mechanic confirmed that the sway bar link needs to be replaced (the rubber boot is gone), the strut is leaking oil and therefore should be replaced, and that the front right engine mount is broken. It's a bummer, but I guess they were correct on the first inspection. This place estimated just under $500 for the sway bar link and engine mount. They said they would pass the strut as-is.

Does that sound reasonable? I really don't feel like replacing the mount on my own. James and Dylan of STL SHO made it look easy, but I don't think I would make it that easy, haha. And I hear the front sway bar links are a pain to replace. Is that right? I'll look to SHOSource for parts, but they showed $156.26 for the mount and $43.60 for the link. Do those seem right? James, where did you get the other mounts you replaced? They were refurbished or something, right? How much are those?

Also, should I go ahead and replace the strut, too? The first place estimated $750 for everything; About how much would the strut cost?

-----Update-----
I just ordered a front engine mount from Autozone for $95, so that's a bit of savings so far.

Thanks!

I'd order it all from rockauto.com personally...

 

[n2soccer21]

Wow! RockAuto has MUCH better prices! Thanks for that gem!

 

[kevinspann]

Keep in mind shipping, but it's usually not bad. Also google search (or use the search engine of your choice) for a 5% off code to use there.

 

[itwonder]

I'm pretty sure the Autozone motor mount will be the wrong one for the SHO. New front mounts are not available. A forum search will find posts about how to repair and reinforce the old one. ShoSource sells rebuilt ones. You might find one by posting on the WTB page.

Struts should be replaced in pairs. The easiest way is to get Monroe quick struts. Installation is quicker and cheaper because those just bolt in - no disassembly of the old strut required. And everything is new: strut, spring, mount, bearing, spring cushions and dust shields.

Sway bar end links are very easy to change.

 

[Rubix]

Oh, regarding the e brake warning light, I was failed on this a few months ago on my last inspection too. I'd been noticing that it sometimes worked and sometimes didn't before going in so I rolled the dice and hoped it would work for them; it of course did not. There is a small spring loaded mechanism to the left of the ebrake pedal which is what triggers the light. It's held on by one screw. I knew the fuses and connections were fine but it still wasn't working. So I cleaned that "switch". I removed it, blasted the spring with WD-40, wiped it all down, WD-40'd again, put it back in, and it works for now (and passed inspection). It's just a silly plastic thing with a spring and a pin held on by one screw. I could take a picture if you need it, that might be your problem but then again it could be something more.