Replacing Front Strut Mounts & Bearings

[vortex2450]

Hey guys,

I searched some but didn't find anything conclusive.

My front suspension is pretty wacky right now. The car won't keep an alignment and the right side makes a dragging/clunking sound when I turn the wheel either way at low speed/or a stop.

Coincidentally the same side was exposed to hitting a gruesome pothole @ 45mph which destroyed the LCA, this happened a couple months ago.

I believe it's the culprit because I don't remember this problem before hand.

So I'm diagnosing this to be strut mounts, I'm ordering a set of Ingalls adjustable w/ bearing from SHOsource but I am hesitant to tear apart my front suspension for the 3rd time this year in my DD before I have a clear idea of what needs to be done.

When replacing the mounts which way is deemed the most "efficient"?

I have two trains of though here.

A) Removing the whole strut/spring/knuckle assembly. This would involve have to remove the brake calipers, loosing the axle nut, fighting the axles out, removing the lower ball joints and unbolting the three nuts on top of the mounts right?

I don't really want to have to fight the ball joints again, they were hard enough with two people the first time that I had to reinstall them.

B) Have the suspension in the air (obviously) and disconnect only the strut assembly and beat the shit out of the rusty connection between the strut and the knuckle, but I am wary, I don't if I'll have even room to maneuver the assembly out without having to go through a couple of the steps in plan A.

I know someone here has torn this stuff apart enough to know how to do it in their sleep.

Any input is great.

Thanks,
Josh

 

[rubydist]

I've done it both ways multiple times. imho, it is much easier on the Gen1/2 front knuckle to remove the ball joint than it is to get the knuckle off the strut, especially if there is a bunch of rust. (When I assemble them, I put never-sieze in those joints...)

It is slightly more challenging to compress the spring to get the strut mount off when you have the whole knuckle on there too, but that is the way I would do it if I were doing your project.

However, having just put the Gen3 subframe on my 92, I would use your current issues as the perfect excuse to do the Gen3 subframe conversion. A new lca will be around $65 and you should be able to get all the conversion stuff for $200 or less. Having the Gen3 subframe eliminates all the issues w/ strut rod bushings, rusted strut rod connections, etc. and reduces torque steer, braking squat, etc. and generally makes a better handling and better driving car.

 

[vortex2450]

I've done it both ways multiple times. imho, it is much easier on the Gen1/2 front knuckle to remove the ball joint than it is to get the knuckle off the strut, especially if there is a bunch of rust. (When I assemble them, I put never-sieze in those joints...)

It is slightly more challenging to compress the spring to get the strut mount off when you have the whole knuckle on there too, but that is the way I would do it if I were doing your project.

However, having just put the Gen3 subframe on my 92, I would use your current issues as the perfect excuse to do the Gen3 subframe conversion. A new lca will be around $65 and you should be able to get all the conversion stuff for $200 or less. Having the Gen3 subframe eliminates all the issues w/ strut rod bushings, rusted strut rod connections, etc. and reduces torque steer, braking squat, etc. and generally makes a better handling and better driving car.

So you would suggest for replacement to...... ?

Disconnect pinch bolt, disconnect ball joints, take off tops mount nuts and wiggle it out?

As for a Gen 3 SF conversion, don't tempt me to put off doing this.

Don't I need a jig for a gen 3 SF conversion, and a welder? Neither of whch I have btw :| I'll do the swap one day but for now I need my front suspension in order so I can get a proper alignment and not have my SHO pulling itself all over the road, my tires and my mileage are suffering..

 

[rubydist]

take off the axle nuts also so you don't have to worry about wrecking the cv joints

remove the brake caliper so you don't tear up the brake line

remove pinch bolt, disconnect ball joint

remove the 3 bolts that hold the top of the strut, and drop the strut asm out

use spring compressor on spring so you can r/r the strut mount.


yes, you need to weld the trans mount in the correct spot to do the Gen3 swap.

 

[vortex2450]

take off the axle nuts also so you don't have to worry about wrecking the cv joints

remove the brake caliper so you don't tear up the brake line

remove pinch bolt, disconnect ball joint

remove the 3 bolts that hold the top of the strut, and drop the strut asm out

use spring compressor on spring so you can r/r the strut mount.


yes, you need to weld the trans mount in the correct spot to do the Gen3 swap.

Spring compressor, I don't have one of those, any suggestions?

Thanks,
Josh

 

[Airborne]

Spring compressor, I don't have one of those, any suggestions?

Thanks,
Josh

You can rent it at any auto parts store.

 

[vortex2450]

You can rent it at any auto parts store.

I knew that....

So basically my best bet is a combination of plans A and B.

Disconnect/loosen pinch bolt, disconnect ball joints, remove calipers, remove axles, disconnect top strut nuts and wiggle them out?

Then use a spring compressor to hold the spring when removing and re installing the mount itself?

I prefer to have very clear idea of what I'm doing here so I can make this a one day in and out ordeal without too much fuss. The pinch bolt will be the only nut I haven't loosen or messed with yet but I'm hitting it with PB blaster every other day until my mounts come in and I have time to actually install this stuff.

thanks,
josh

 

[kevinspann]

The easiest way I have found to remove the top nut from the strut is to hold the shaft of the strut with vice grips and use an impact (I have an electric one that works fine, $40 at Harbor Freight) and it will come off. I wish I had known about doing this when removing the blown Tokicos from my car....I ended up cutting the shaft in half with a hacksaw.

Or just bring your car here and we can do it

 

[JRA2000TL]

take off the axle nuts also so you don't have to worry about wrecking the cv joints

remove the brake caliper so you don't tear up the brake line

remove pinch bolt, disconnect ball joint

remove the 3 bolts that hold the top of the strut, and drop the strut asm out

use spring compressor on spring so you can r/r the strut mount.


yes, you need to weld the trans mount in the correct spot to do the Gen3 swap.

Nice, quick description. I'd like to sticky this or subscribe to it so that I can do mine on the red car when I'm ready.

 

[sdpatt]

I leave the LCA attached to the knuckle, but remove the sway bar link, tie rod end and brake caliper (hang from a hook, not the hose). I use a 1.5-ton bottle jack between the knuckle perch and the bottom of the spring perch to slide the knuckle off the strut. Ensure the jack is adjacent to the strut tube to limit any binding forces. I have a dedicated 2"x2" piece of lumber about 4' long that is placed above the strut rod and under the subframe to lower the knuckle with a knee or rear end to allow the bottom of the strut/spring to be removed from the knuckle after the three nuts are removed. I have not had to use spring compressors with this process. The lumber lever is necessary to help get the bottom of the strut back in the knuckle with one of the top nuts loosely installed to hold the strut/spring. Knocking on wood, I have never had a problem with the CV joints, but then my CV halfshafts are lifetime warranty remans and have been replaced a "few" times over the miles.

 

[rubydist]

Scott, that doesn't get the spring compressed so he can r/r the strut mount, which what his objective is.

 

[Frisbeeguy]

Wow, he's back!
Thanks or chiming in Scott - I'll be doing this soon on the '89 as well.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Glad he's back, and Scott is the reason I use Castrol 10w-30 with Motorcraft FL400S filters in my 256k 89. Got a WIX in there now though b/c it was on sale.

That is an interesting way to remove the strut. Thread subscribed.

 

[vortex2450]

One last question for everyone.

Ingalls vs Moogs?

I'd like to support SHOsource but shipping to NC is almost ludicrous and they charge $30 for a new set of bearing with their option. I'm not broke but things are still tight.

Moogs are $60 on RA and shipping is moderate, bearing are like $12 vs $30.

Ingalls, worth the extra dough over the Moogs or not?


-Josh

 

[silver93sho]

I just installed the Ingalls strut mounts on my '93....they add about 1/4 of an inch in over all height to the completed strut assy. and therefor even more of a pain to install the ball joint. Here is what i do and doing it this way might not be the fastest way but one person can do it alone.

First to remove the ball joint.....after safely raising the car and removing the pinch bolt at the ball joint, jack up the strut with a bottle jack(since they lift straight up) an inch or two. hit the hole in the knuckle where the ball joint pinch bolt goes through a few times or more on the front and back with a hammer or 4lbs sledge and the LCA will fall right out. I have done this a few dozen times on SHO's and other Taurii and it works everytime. It breaks the bond between the metal that is created by the pinch bolt.

To reinstall the completed strut i loosened the torsion bar nut and then removed the bolt holding the LCA to the subframe. This allows the LCA to spin freely.

Install the stut assy. and install the 3 strut nuts on top to hold it all in place. now you can simply fit the ball joint into the knuckle and get your pinch bolt in and set.

NOW you have the bottom of the ball joint/LCA to jack up with the bottle jack(carefully of course...without the zerk fitting) now you can get your LCA started back into the subframe and the bolt going. this will take some wiggling/twisting and maybe a little up with the jack to get the bolt all the way through but it goes pretty quick, especially on the second one.

Again, this is just my take on how to do this job....it might not work for everyone!

 

[riden2low]

One last question for everyone.

Ingalls vs Moogs?

I'd like to support SHOsource but shipping to NC is almost ludicrous and they charge $30 for a new set of bearing with their option. I'm not broke but things are still tight.

Moogs are $60 on RA and shipping is moderate, bearing are like $12 vs $30.

Ingalls, worth the extra dough over the Moogs or not?


-Josh

Well, I have never had Ingalls but if you go Moogs which I had put on my 93 ATX, go to Amazon.com. I got mine shipped free.

 

[VortecGT]

I find if you spray PB Blaster around the strut where is goes into the knuckle a couple of nights in a row you can just remove the axle nut, pinch bolt, tie rod end, (helps to get just enough room), stabilizer bar, and strut nuts you can get the struts out.

 

[kevinspann]

I didn't remove the axle nut on the last set of struts I did. Then again I just smacked the top of the knuckle with a 4lb hammer to slide it off of the original struts.

 

[shobote]

The easiest way I have found to remove the top nut from the strut is to hold the shaft of the strut with vice grips and use an impact (I have an electric one that works fine, $40 at Harbor Freight) and it will come off. I wish I had known about doing this when removing the blown Tokicos from my car....I ended up cutting the shaft in half with a hacksaw.

Or just bring your car here and we can do it

Even easier; with the strut installed in the car. it is held in place so you can break the top not loose, which saved a lot of time when I did mine

 

[sdpatt]

Thanks for remembering me.:wave:

My procedure above was to get the strut and spring assembly out of the car. Once out, the spring compressor is then applied to protect you and the surroundings when the top nut is removed from the strut. With shorter, higher rate springs such as the Eibachs on my car, I need use only hand pressure to compress the spring enough to remove all spring load when removing the nut.

Either way, once the top nut is installed on the new mount assembly, the spring compressor is removed before the strut and spring assembly is reinstalled in the wheel well. I install one nut (inboard) loosely on the strut mount studs protruding from the strut tower to suspend the assmbly in the fenderwell. I then use the 2"x2"x4' lumber to lower the knuckle enough the slide the bottom of the strut into the knuckle. A bit of muscle is applied to align the knuckle with the strut to allow the strut to slide into the bore of the knuckle. I use the same bottle jack below the lower control arm to slowly press the knuckle onto the strut far enough to align the strut pinch bolt with its hole. Go too far and the bottle jack can be again used to slide the knuckle down the strut to align the pinch bolt for installation.

I have done this a few times with much success.