Battery light flickering... who's the culprit?

[hawkeye18]

Aha, that's right, I remember that now. It is the same in the '90 EVTM (or at least close enough as it makes no difference).

So yes, you can disconnect the alternator entirely purely for testing purposes, just be sure to isolate the wires you disconnect, as at least two of them will be hot (all the time in the case of the big charge cable, and when running in the case of the red/green wire). Of course, you will get a battery light on the dash while doing this.

Actually, I don't think you will get a battery light, since by disconnecting the plug you are removing electrical continuity - since there is no ground and nowhere for the electrons to go, nothing will happen. Now, if you were to short that wire to ground...

 

[jonheese]

Aha. You're absolutely correct.

 

[Devin]

All of the lights were steady, there was no pulsating. I'm really leaning toward voltage regulator. I will be getting a rebuild.

 

[hawkeye18]

All of the lights were steady, there was no pulsating. I'm really leaning toward voltage regulator. I will be getting a rebuild.

They do like to go bad on SHOs.

 

[Devin]

I don't think it has anything to do with the SHO, it's integrated into the rebuilt alternator.

 

[jonheese]

I think Jason just means that the regulators tend to die on the SHO alternators. I'm sure he's well aware of the regulator's location.

 

[platoribs]

Be sure to check your connectors/wires on the alternator, I have made the battery light flicker by just wiggling the wires.

 

[moobypets]

that exactly what i say

Be sure to check your connectors/wires on the alternator, I have made the battery light flicker by just wiggling the wires.

before you even replace your alternator


un plug it probe one dise off the conector it should give you the same voltage as the batt when you find it you start to play with the wire near the relay starter and wigle and pull th erest off the wire maybe you have a bad wire or fusible link same as i did an di replaced 3 alternator for no ******* reason

 

[jonheese]

Translation:

Before you replace your alternator, unplug it and probe one side of the connector. It should give you the same voltage as the battery. When you find it, start to play with the wire near the starter relay, and wiggle and pull the rest of the wire. Maybe you have a bad wire or fusible link, same as I did and I replaced 3 alternators for no effing reason.

 

[moobypets]

ok ok i did not read before i push reply sorry

 

[jonheese]

Nah, it's okay, it wasn't too bad, I just thought you had good advice and I wanted to make sure it was clearly understood.

 

[Devin]

I think Jason just means that the regulators tend to die on the SHO alternators. I'm sure he's well aware of the regulator's location.

I misread his reply, I thought he said they do not like to die! Reading comprehension for the lose. Speaking of which:

before you even replace your alternator


un plug it probe one dise off the conector it should give you the same voltage as the batt when you find it you start to play with the wire near the relay starter and wigle and pull th erest off the wire maybe you have a bad wire or fusible link same as i did an di replaced 3 alternator for no ******* reason

I'd follow your instructions but I really haven't the foggiest of what you are saying. All I get out of that is "the fusible link" might be bad. (Edit: thanks Jon!)

Be sure to check your connectors/wires on the alternator, I have made the battery light flicker by just wiggling the wires.

I'd be less concerned if it was just the battery light, but every thing that is illuminated on the dash and the headlamps pulsates. Brake light, clock, door ajar light, headlamp: if it has light it pulsates.

My plan was to take the alt itself to a local rebuilder and have them test the regulator and possibly get the whole thing rebuilt by hand. I'm done with those Reconstrudio en Mexico units.

 

[jonheese]

I'd follow your instructions but I really haven't the foggiest of what you are saying. All I get out of that is "the fusible link" might be bad.

Check my translation.

 

[Devin]

Translation:

Just so I don't bridge something I shouldn't, do I put one probe on the positive terminal and that hot wire running to the stud on the alternator? And this is while the car is off I assume.

 

[jonheese]

Just so I don't bridge something I shouldn't, do I put one probe on the positive terminal and that hot wire running to the stud on the alternator? And this is while the car is off I assume.

I don't actually know what he was going for there, so I'll let Mooby answer that one.

 

[moobypets]

plug the probe in one connector and the other on the negative batt or ground only the a connector will give you a reading then go at the side off your relay starter if (external ) if not im unsure where your wire will be

and then you pull and twist and maybe if your lucky it a fuseable link that broken

 

[Devin]

I checked, and no matter what I did the meter stayed at 11.60 (which is what I measured at the battery).

So I took the alternator out. You don't think that soot is trying to tell me something, do you?

 

[jonheese]

He dead.

Also, did you see "The Last Airbender", or "Despicable Me"?

 

[moobypets]

that because the alternator tried and gave you way more current so it has to ask more off the pully in order to get more voltage it did the same on my 2 replacement alternator

did you pull on the fuseable link ?

 

[Devin]

that because the alternator tried and gave you way more current so it has to ask more off the pully in order to get more voltage it did the same on my 2 replacement alternator

did you pull on the fuseable link ?

I tugged on every wire I could find on the side of the engine and that hangs off of the relay. Don't know what else to check.


And we saw the Last Airbender