Road Course Racing car set up info

[Michelle]

Yeah, it scares all of the other drivers off the track...

Scares, intimidates - same thing!

 

[SHO_DOODmorrris]

Yeah, it scares all of the other drivers off the track...

i loled.

P.S... great thread awsome nuggets of info here. Im interested in this cobra 11.6" can somone fill me in?

 

[Sho Amo]

This contains everything you need to know about the swap.

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=56971


Anyone tried the redstuff pads for the cobras on the road course?

 

[SHOspazz92]

Yeah, it scares all of the other drivers off the track...

I'm Sorry but....


LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


With that said, Michelle could probably drive circles around me.

-Sam

 

[zak]

Rear alignment questions?

Lester, are you really running zero toe? I thought that would make the rear end too loose especially under braking when it will tend to toe out..

Going for a rear alignment this week (or will probably do it myself) and shooting for -1.8 camber and 1/32 toe in per side (dual purpose car)

 

[SHOmanBC]

Yup 0 toe in the rear, or as close as I can get with error to toe in. TPR bushings in the tension struts and rod ends in the control arms, it dosn't move much.

 

[K-Dawg]

TPR bushings in the tension struts and rod ends in the control arms, it dosn't move much.

What control arms and bushings are you using?

 

[SHOmanBC]

http://bicknellracingproducts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_103_138&products_id=676

 

[ForcedSHO]

Suspension. Ground Control coil-overs with the SHO source upper mounts are the way to go. Not only are the spring rates much better for the track, plus adjustable corner weights, and ground clearance, but the whole setup knocks 50 lbs off the weight of the car. Half of which can be considered unsprung. As far as I am aware, Koni struts are the only acceptable choice (though more damping would be better.

Where would you get coil-overs for a 1994 SHO. I was looking around and only found these.

http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Ground-Control-15677.htm

 

[gsilva]

I have to 2nd the motion on the SBC's or subframe connectors. Some people call them body stiffeners which seems to be more accurate. I had some welded on then **** the car for a ride and all I can say is what a difference, I can't wait to try them out on the track.

 

[sdpatt]

I appreciate the input to this thread and would like to add that brake pads designed for the track make a big difference. I tried several, but Carbotech XP10s for the '96 SHO calipers and rotors along with R compound tires has provided my car with a distinct advantage in the braking zones. With the limited power of the SHO's engine, the exceptionally powerful and consistently fade free performance of the XP10s has allowed me to make up good distances on much more powerful cars.

 

[RonPorter]

I appreciate the input to this thread and would like to add that brake pads designed for the track make a big difference. I tried several, but Carbotech XP10s for the '96 SHO calipers and rotors along with R compound tires has provided my car with a distinct advantage in the braking zones. With the limited power of the SHO's engine, the exceptionally powerful and consistently fade free performance of the XP10s has allowed me to make up good distances on much more powerful cars.

Yep, Carbotechs rock!!

I have considered the XP-series for my LGT, but since I don't do more than a few track events all years on street tires, I just run the Carbotech AX6 pads year-round (formerly called the Panther+ pads). Other LGT and SHO guys run the XP track series with excellent results.

 

[drivinhard]

we ran panther plus (96 brakes) on our SHO at lemons and they did well, better than I thought they would. The pads are only about 1/2 worn, which is amazing considering we raced on them at comp speeds for 2 days. The other SHO there (89) had to swap pads in the garage after the first day. have no idea what pads they were running on their 10" brakes.

I would probably run the XP8 next go around, I would expect the wear to be about the same.

Frankly looking at them, it's possible you could get another race out of them.

FWIW I have tried XP8/10/12 on my Z06 in time trials, and I can tell no difference between 10 and 12 other than the 12's wear quicker and lighten your wallet faster. The 10's have all the torque and thermal ability I need. The 8's aren't quite there for all out 10/10ths for a 400hp/3100 lb car but the 8's last a LONG time. great pad for the rear brakes anyway.

 

[Shoaz]

Currently I'm running Koni's with 400/600lb springs and 22/26 bars, previous setup 600/600 and 0/26 bars.

SHOman's setup is closest to mine, which is 500/600 and 20/23 bars. I put a 26mm rear bar on this weekend at PIR just to try it (since many others seem to like it), and for me driving my car on that track it was awful. I ran three sessions with it trying to get used to it, adjust the line, etc., etc., and finally concluded it was way better with the smaller rear bar. Swapped the 23mm bar back in for the last session on Saturday and picked up 0.2s, despite the track and ambient temperatures being hotter. And it was way easier to drive.

 

[SHOmanBC]

This last weekend I disconected my 22mm front bar and went 1:19 flat at mission, personal best for me. All this means is that every track/ driver/ car (shoaz is probably the heaviest competition car here) is a little different, and feel for the car is every thing.

 

[Shoaz]

Yeah, every car is different. With so much weight and a bone-stock motor I pretty much have to drive a momentum line, and that fat rear bar just wasn't suited for that. Adjusting the line for that bar slowed me down pretty notably in a couple corners, and cost a fair amount of corner exit push on most.

I'm thinking the next thing to try might be disconnecting the front bar like you did, just as an experiment. It handles quite well as it is, I'm just trying to see if there's much to be gained with easy changes like that.

 

[RonPorter]

In taking a 10,000' view, it's obvious that there is no "perfect" setup, as it depends a lot on your driving style. As well as where you are driving.

Lotsa good ideas here. Folks just need to experiment to find out what works for them.