So..in my last posts I was replacing spark plugs and there is oil coming into the plug wells. So now I need to replace the valve cover gasket set. The shop i took it to says that the rear main seal is what the problem is. So, is there any website or store I can go to to get the parts I need and how hard is this to get done? Or do I just need to suck it up and pay the 400 dollars for them to do it for me? Thanks.
Oil Valve Cover Gasket help
- Thread starter ac27854
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
It might take a few days but they have everything you will need.
http://www.rcmautomotive.com/index.html
http://www.rcmautomotive.com/index.html
Last edited:
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
A rear main seal isn't gonna put oil in your spark plug wells. They're taking you for a ride. Yes, the rear main seals leak too, but guess what, that's the one seal that requires removing the transmission. Gee, wonder why they picked that one?
Anyway, it isn't the valve cover seal per se, but the spark plug tube well seals that are to blame. They are part of the valve cover gasket set, which is about $75-90 at most places (rockauto, advance auto, autozone, etc).
I would also recommend removing your vehicle from that shop ASAP and taking it to somebody who knows what in the **** they're talking about.
And, not to sound like a dick, but there's a reason most people end up wrenching their own SHOs; mechanics who know shit about SHOs are very few and very far between.
Anyway, it isn't the valve cover seal per se, but the spark plug tube well seals that are to blame. They are part of the valve cover gasket set, which is about $75-90 at most places (rockauto, advance auto, autozone, etc).
I would also recommend removing your vehicle from that shop ASAP and taking it to somebody who knows what in the **** they're talking about.
And, not to sound like a dick, but there's a reason most people end up wrenching their own SHOs; mechanics who know shit about SHOs are very few and very far between.
yeah..after dealing with those guys seperate times its no good haha. I just took it to them to see what the problem was and then me and a buddy of mine do it ourselves. just need to find somewhere that can have the part. and is it very hard to just replace the valve cover ourselves?
Brett
SHOs before HOs
New valve cover gaskets are a cinch, but ive only done them with the motor out. Ive heard the rear valve cover gasket can roll when the cover is being installed causing a leak, so be careful for that. If you can change a starter, alternator etc. basic mech stuff you can do a valve cover gasket. rear main will not be a good time.
shotime1994
AirHammerAndrew
x2 on the rear gasket can roll. The gaskets are easy to do just take your time.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Removing the intake is the hardest part, honestly. It can take a few hours the first time you do it. There are a few coolant lines (which you can not put back on - search Throttle Body Bypass) and more than a few vacuum lines to look out for. Don't yank anything too hard. The brackets on the corners of the intake, IMHO, are more annoying than useful; putting them back on is strictly optional (again IMHO). Once you get the intake off, you can get at the valve covers.
The thing about those allen head bolts on the valve covers is... those heads will strip out REAL easy if you aren't careful. The sustained application of moderate torque will suit you FAR better than nailing it. i.e. use your hands, put pressure on it until just before you think you're going to strip the head out and keep that pressure on it. The O-rings under the bolts like to fuse to the covers, and that's what causes them to stick. PB blaster can be your friend here.
Odds are, though, that you're going to strip at least one. If you have a bit set, you can try hammering a Torx bit in there (it works about ~60% of the time). Don't forget the two wee little ones on the driver's side on each cover.
Once the covers are off... actually, you know what? just go here and look at the "TOP 60K" procedures. That'll tell you everything you need to know... no reason for me to type it all out again.
The thing about those allen head bolts on the valve covers is... those heads will strip out REAL easy if you aren't careful. The sustained application of moderate torque will suit you FAR better than nailing it. i.e. use your hands, put pressure on it until just before you think you're going to strip the head out and keep that pressure on it. The O-rings under the bolts like to fuse to the covers, and that's what causes them to stick. PB blaster can be your friend here.
Odds are, though, that you're going to strip at least one. If you have a bit set, you can try hammering a Torx bit in there (it works about ~60% of the time). Don't forget the two wee little ones on the driver's side on each cover.
Once the covers are off... actually, you know what? just go here and look at the "TOP 60K" procedures. That'll tell you everything you need to know... no reason for me to type it all out again.
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Where in TX are you?
Im located in Dallas. So anyways, more and more problems. I got the valve cover gaskets yesterday. Took it to some shop. Anywho after that I noticed that I now have problems while at idle. My rpms jump up to 2k when I start the car. And at idle at a stop it goes down to about 500, shakes the car, and acts as if its coming close to stalling. After about 15-20 sec it goes back up to 1000 and just cycles. I checked the codes this morning and i got 114, 157, and 542. So im thinking that replacing the O2 sensors should do the trick. Any suggestions?
Clean MAF sensor with spray MAF sensor cleaner you can buy at auto parts store. Don't use anything else. use forum search to find more about this.
Run KOEO and KOER tests at http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm
Do a forum search on "idle reset" procedure and follow the instructions.
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Go see Tony at http://www.northtexasperformance.com
Similar threads
