Where to locate new brake lines?

[LJRuddy]

In my attempts to unbolt the stock rubber brake lines on the front wheels of my SHO, I began to strip the bolts thanks to massive amounts of rust. I did use an ungodly amount of PB Blaster but it was just not enough. Anyway, my plan is to cut the line in half and remove the entire line from the caliper to the master cylinder as they are rusted pretty bad anyway. I have heard that new brake hard lines are not made anymore so I am curious where I might be able to find someone who can make the bends for me. Anyone know what I could do and how much it would cost? :thankyou:

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Which front brake line ? Left or right ?

The left (driver's) line comes directly off the ABS unit, and has a special plastic sleeving to protect it against road-damage.

The right (passenger's) line comes off the small black plastic union block located well below the master cylinder, then travels along the top of the firewall, to the passenger strut tower, where it then passes-through to the mounting bracket that the flexible brake line bolts to . . . .

Neither are easy to replace. Both have multiple bends and a mix of metric and standard flare nuts at the ends.

 

[LJRuddy]

Which front brake line ? Left or right ?

The left (driver's) line comes directly off the ABS unit, and has a special plastic sleeving to protect it against road-damage.

The right (passenger's) line comes off the small black plastic union block located well below the master cylinder, then travels along the top of the firewall, to the passenger strut tower, where it then passes-through to the mounting bracket that the flexible brake line bolts to . . . .

Neither are easy to replace. Both have multiple bends and a mix of metric and standard flare nuts at the ends.

I need both as the nuts that attach the flare end to the flexible line at the caliper are rusted to the point of no return. My plan is/was to take a dremel and cut the hard line just before the bracket as those nuts are rusted and stripped. Here is a picture describing where and how I want to do this.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

You do realize that the flexible brake line is held in place by the steel spring clip. Personally, I would cut the bracket and retaining clip off of the flare nut fittings, before destroying the lines . . . .

 

[LJRuddy]

Yes, I do realize this. Keep in mind, I was able to replace the rear lines with SS lines this weekend. The problem with cutting the retaining clip is that by cutting it off, it allows the entire line to flex when I apply torque to the nut when trying to break it free. The lines are so rusted that I am afraid that I will snap the solid lines in half when I attempt to break the nut free of the rust. And if I don't have a replacement line on hand if this happens, it will leave me without transportation as my mother is currently using my Mustang and I sold my bike several weeks ago.

 

[gimpysho]

brake hard lines source

I've bought brake hard lines from here:www.classictubes.com. They have the patterns for(seeTim /sales) Taurus. They can do them in OE steel or Stainless. It can save you the hassle and time to bend your own. I recently replaced my rusty ,leaking RR line thriugh them 45 min to remove old line & intall new one !
Gimpy

 

[itwonder]

There is another way! I hope it is not too late. It is quite common for the flare nut on the hard line to be seized in the female fitting on the rubber line. In virtually every case, simply applying heat with a propane or MAPP gas torch to the female fitting will free it right up. Wear safety glasses and gloves when doing this because the rubber line may pop off of the fitting and spit a little molten rubber. If you have rounded over the flats on the flare nut, then perhaps you can still turn it with a flare nut wrench or vise grips.

If it is still stuck after heating, then the next step is to use a cutoff wheel in your Dremel to slice a slot in the female fitting lengthwise. Carefully cut just deep enough until you begin the see the threads. Do not cut so deep that you damage the threads on the flare nut. It may take two slots 180 degree apart. Then insert a stout screwdriver in one of the slots and pry it apart. This will relieve the pressure on the flare nut and it will come right out.