Warped Brakes

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rangerj

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NWGRN94MTX

Please do not misunderstand. I think Baer brake products are top drawer. However, putting them on a vehicle used for everday commuting is overkill.

If you are able to get the benefits out of the product on curved mountain roads, with little or no traffic, thats great. But spirited heel and toe driving is near impossible in the congested North East. In fact that kind of driving is irresponsible, negligent, and illeagle in this part of the country.

That having been said, I believe that the tires and brakes should be the best possible given the circumstances and envirorment they will be used in.

If the vehicle is used in off-road, organized, and legal sporting events, then the cost of Baer products is justified. But for ordinary street driving, as was the question, then a lesser quality product will suffice.

As for boiling brake fluid, no I have never had brake fluid boil. I have always used a high heat fluid and flush it once a year. I have been using Castrol GT LMA for the last several years.

It is a DOT 4 rated fluid and has a more than sufficient heat range for street driving. The best part is its low moisture absobtion qualities because of winter storage.

I give you a great deal of credit for using top quality brake products and tires for your spirited driving. It is the folks that go out and buy the "blue light" special, and then push the car to its limits, that worry me.

I like nothing better than pushing the envelope, heel and toe, four wheel slides, accelerating out of the apex of a curve, but the streets are just full of inconsiderate folks who insist on using our roads!

Stand on it and enjoy it while you can. The 2000 Census indicates the crowds are headed your way! rangerj
 

twr

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artsho:
The assembly as a whole should operate smoothly...the rotor and caliper should be in perfect operating condition...The slide pins on the rear of SHO's are a problem...they bind causeing added heat...bad for brakes...keep an eye on them and ALWAYS replace the spring nuts when installing new rotors...VERT IMPORTANT !!! you know the ones I'm talking about...they're usually pryed off with a screwdriver ... the rotors should not be held on by the wheels squint eek! squint
Your kidding right?? The little spring nuts do nothing more that hold the rotor in position during assembly. The wheels (lug nuts)are what hold the rotors in place during braking. Unfortunatly most after market wheels don't allow for those little spring nuts. Even at a 1/32" thick, they can throw the wheel out enough to cause a vibration.

<small>[ November 04, 2002, 11:23 AM: Message edited by: twrsho ]</small>
 

NWGRN94MTX

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I give you a great deal of credit for using top quality brake products and tires for your spirited driving. It is the folks that go out and buy the "blue light" special, and then push the car to its limits, that worry me.
I agree with you on all of your points and especialy the one above on the Blue light thing above. When I take my SHO out, It's mostly pushing it hard. I have a Ranger for a daily driver. But you have to agree, that most of the people on this forum drive more "spritly" than the average Cotton Head SLO driver that's afraid to blow the doillie off of the dash board, but the cars have the same brakes. I think I see allot more curvie mountain roads with allot of altitude change than the midwest sees, when I take the SHO out, I go looking for this, and I don't have to look very far. :) The brakes on these cars are very weak, and unless your driving your SHO like a Cotton Head, the 96 upgrade is minimum IMHO. I like the people in the SHO community and I don't want to see the new and unexperienced ones being hurt, and think that we both feel the same way.

beer cheers

<small>[ November 05, 2002, 11:20 PM: Message edited by: NWGRN94MTX ]</small>
 

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