Valve Stem Seal Replacement

[vortex2450]

It's time for valve stem seals for me. Since I planned on swapping cams anyhow I figured I might as well do the seals while I am in there since this engine is seriously burning some oil.

I have done some searching but what little information is out there is vague and doesn't give me a full understanding of what needs to be done AND what is needed to do the job with the heads still on the block.

I don't have a compressor but have read of mentions of cramming rope into the cylinder near BDC then cranking the crankshaft until the rope is squeezed between the valves and the piston to prevent dropping a valve into the cylinder.

I do know that I need 12 intake and 12 exhaust seals , which are not the same part. I know I need a method of compressing the valve to remove the keeper and springs. Beyond that it's fuzzy exactly what is needed as far as tools are involved.

So I humbly come here to ask for input.

Thanks,

-Josh

 

[msteiny]

The best way and easiest way to do it would be to buy this kit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Rotund...ls&hash=item35c1cc0029&vxp=mtr#ht_1349wt_1161

This is what I did and it made doing the valve stem seals really easy. However it is still time consuming. This is of coarse not the only way as I am sure someone will point out.

 

[zach44102]

The new valve stem seals thats are brown work both for intake and exhaust. I got them from rockauto.

 

[kevinspann]

Really easy, my ass.

 

[msteiny]

The new valve stem seals thats are brown work both for intake and exhaust. I got them from rockauto.

There is a difference that pointed out to Waffles a couple weeks ago. The seals are the same color however they are different in style. One has more material going over the edge of the seal. Look at them closely they are not the same.

Really easy, my ass.

I thought it was easy with the correct tools. I just took my time. Using a magnet and sticky engine assembly **** for the valve keepers helped too.

 

[Irish Pride]

I dont have an air compressor either anymore. When i get around to doing the seals on my 91(no time soon) i will use the rope way. Just get a length of soft nylon rope and cram it in there.

[YOUTUBE]TJ2l5SWfzLs&list[/YOUTUBE]

 

[kevinspann]

This is how it went for me.

But the good news is I now have a low mileage 3.2 instead.

 

[rubydist]

First, that ebay referenced kit will only do you any good if you pull the heads. Which of course is the right thing to do because then you can clean up the pistons and valves and runners. It is not "easy" but it is very straightforward.

Second, the best valve stem seals are different for exhaust than for intake. The FelPro ones are much better than the other brand, imho. The all-brown ones are so flimsy that I tore several of them just getting them installed, so I bought a set of FelPro to fix that.

Third, the keepers get set really tight after 100k miles of use, so I don't know that you can get enough "rope" into the combustion chamber to make it hold the valve enough to get them to release. Another reason to just pull the heads and do all the work that should be done while you are in there.

 

[msteiny]

First, that ebay referenced kit will only do you any good if you pull the heads. Which of course is the right thing to do because then you can clean up the pistons and valves and runners. It is not "easy" but it is very straightforward.

I got lucky then. I had really good compression so I left the heads on. I went to Harbor freight and bought a cheap ass compression tester the threaded into the head then put an air fitting on it. Fed the cylinder around 20 psi and did my valve stem seal work. I thought about pulling the heads and lapping the valves just for ***** and grins but decided against it due to the good compression. The valve seal tools in the kit are nice but I also bought it for the cam position tool and seal expander for the cam seals. Granted I know there are many other ways to do all the work on our cars I just thought I would mention the kit.

 

[rubydist]

yeah, you are right - I apparently was half asleep when I posted that...

 

[vortex2450]

First, that ebay referenced kit will only do you any good if you pull the heads. Which of course is the right thing to do because then you can clean up the pistons and valves and runners. It is not "easy" but it is very straightforward.

Second, the best valve stem seals are different for exhaust than for intake. The FelPro ones are much better than the other brand, imho. The all-brown ones are so flimsy that I tore several of them just getting them installed, so I bought a set of FelPro to fix that.

Third, the keepers get set really tight after 100k miles of use, so I don't know that you can get enough "rope" into the combustion chamber to make it hold the valve enough to get them to release. Another reason to just pull the heads and do all the work that should be done while you are in there.

I would like to avoid pulling the heads because this is engine is extremely stout given that beyond a al. flywheel and a catback it's mostly stock.

And thanks for the heads up on the fel pro seals, those were what i was planning on using. I have a set of heads in the shed that I was going to practice on before I do the heads on the engine.

As for the keepers. They will suck no matter what, I'm prepared for that....

As much as I would like to pull heads all I see happening then is a SHO sitting for months versus a few weeks.


-Josh

 

[Racer X]

This is how it went for me.

But the good news is I now have a low mileage 3.2 instead.

Brought a smile to my face with this gif, thanks. That's exactly how it went for me, and I had the heads off with the Rotunda kit.

 

[jimtash]

Much easier to take the heads off than doing the seals with them still attached to the block. ****, it's much easier to take the engine out.