Valve Cover Bolt Tool

[Xs SHO 1]

pls someone confirm that the tool size needed is a 5mm allen head socket.

also, i know it doesnt require much torque (8-11ft/lbs), so will hand lightly snug tight do? i've read people using torque wrenches with a low setting still breaking the bolts.

thanks

<small>[ June 29, 2003, 11:37 AM: Message edited by: Xs SHO 1 ]</small>

 

[Bizzy]

I used my TQ wrench set at 10lbs/ft and didn't break a single one. I think that if they have been stressed really bad in the past "careless mechanic overTQ'n them) they will may break when you go to the correct TQ.

That's why I have a complete set I have polished super shiny that I am haning onto in case I break one sometime.

 

[SHO--ripper]

Hand tight is fine. If you have a torx head set i would use those. I have stripped valve cover bolts using allen heads.

 

[shotimev6]

torx??? isnt it a hex socket you should be using?

 

[Xs SHO 1]

hex sounds more like it, one way to find out!

 

[SHO--ripper]

I use torx,not hex.

 

[DHMag]

if a hex head is stripped out, a larger torx bit can be used to remove the said bolt. ive done it before without any negative effects.

 

[sdpatt]

They are 5mm Allen head bolts. Just make sure the Allen socket is fully inserted into the bolt head before applying any twist. The torque spec is 8-11 lb-ft. DO NOT use any more than that. I have used an oversized Torx socket hammered into a stripped bolt only in an emergency. Why use a Torx on an Allen bolt if it has not been deformed? you have a better chance of stripping either the bolt or the socket doing that. I scratch my head.

 

[Yamaha V6]

Bugs Scott? wink

Yeah, I was wondering why the Torx on a normal bolt myself. The only time I've seen a bolt start to round the allen points is when it's not seated correctly. If there's any debris in there, I use a pick tool to scrape it out first, the a gentle tap with the ratchet handle helps to seat the allen end fully in the bolt head.

 

[Xs SHO 1]

i used the allen wrench and i really wish i had a socket. isnt the hex and allen key the same? i'm beginning to think that they are....

 

[sdpatt]

The Allen key is a hex head and they are the same.

 

[rangerj]

For those who are interested in appearances!

I use a Dremel tool with a buffing wheel and some mild buffing compound on the valve cover hold down bolts. As stated above clean out the hex slot for the wrench.

When the bolt is cleaned and "gleaming" spray it with clear automotive engine enamel. After it has dried completely, install it. Then coat the hex slot with a fresh coat of enamel to prevent rust.

Any time you remove or install the bolts the wrench may break open the clear coat. So, recoat the slot anytime you remove or install the bolts.

I have found that rust eats away enough material to make the slots loose, and this is one of the causes of the slot getting rounded out.

If a slot is rounded out it can be ground out with a Dremel tool to 6mm or a 1/4 inch. This takes time to get it accurate, but keep in mind the replacement bolts are about $24 each new.

What was stated above bears repeating. Clean the rust and/or crap out of the slot so the wrench fits tight and is seated. Take your timewhen removing the bolts, and DO NOT overtorque them when you put them back in.

I have been told by several mechanics and automnotive engineers that it is better to use smaller torque wrenches when applying light torque amounts.

So, for 10 foot pounds of torque for example it is better to use an inch pound torque wrench set at 120 inch ponds than it is to use a 1/2 drive torque wrench set at ten foot pounds. You are less likely to overtorque the bolt with the smaller wrench.

SDPATT Chime in here if your engineering training gives you an urge to. The same goes for you professional "wrench benders" as well! rangerj

 

[haydenm315]

SHO--ripper:
Hand tight is fine. If you have a torx head set i would use those. I have stripped valve cover bolts using allen heads.

I have witnessed a loose valve cover bolt upon dissasembly when I went back and checked the lash again after running the cams for a little while. You need a good torque wrench. The handle on my torque wrench got out of alignment and the numbers through the plastic window weren't what the wrench was set at. I broke 2 bolts, but found replacements from a sho at a pick and pull.

 

[SHO--ripper]

I've yet to find a loose bolt on any of my 5 SHO's. I have also never broken a valve cover bolt or stripped one with a torx head. I have stripped one with an allen key shrug

 

[Frankiek3]

I saw this thread from a month back.

I would never use a hex head to take the bolts off.
I used the torque star socket, think it is 30T.
Why risk stripping the bolt?(My one friend did this, i dont know the full story)

 

[shojuan]

Frankiek3:
I saw this thread from a month back.

I would never use a hex head to take the bolts off.
I used the torque star socket, think it is 30T.
Why risk stripping the bolt?(My one friend did this, i dont know the full story)

But the bolts aren't torx, they are allen (hex)! As long as the bolts haven't been overtightened and the hex holes are good and clean there shouldn't be any problems removing them. There's not a problem until there's a problem so why treat the bolts that way from the outset by using a torx socket? Start with the proper tools (5mm allen socket) fully inserted into clean hex holes and remove. If those holes strip out THEN slot them, reshape the hex holes, whatever other method you prefer and either reuse them like that or find replacement bolts. If using a torque wrench to retighten then use the lower end of the range: 8 ft-lbs or 96 inch-lbs. If not using a torque wrench then tread carefully (just tighten snug with a short wrench handle) and if you break a bolt or strip out the aluminum threads then kick yourself for not using the proper tools.

Of course people have broken bolts and stripped out the aluminum threads when they HAVE used the proper tools. Guess those people kicked themselves for listening to the stupid Helms manual specs! shrug doh

 

[Mr Anonymous]

I'm a big fan of using the right tool for the right job. I could start my car every day pretty reliably using a hammer and a screw driver, but that doesn't mean it's a good thing to do. A 5mm hex/allen socket is available at Sears for about $5, and is $$$ well-spent IMHO. I would only use a Torx bit on a valve cover bolt as a last resort if it was already rounded-out.

FWIW, I recommend using a 1/4" drive torque wrench set to 100 lb-in (approx 8.3 lb-ft) and holding it close to the head of the wrench for tightening valve cover bolts. I've never broken or damaged a bolt or head using this method. Owning three torque wrenches in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive is, IMHO, a worthy investment for every "shade tree" mechanic.

 

[sdpatt]

Frankiek3:
I would never use a hex head to take the bolts off.
I used the torque star socket, think it is 30T.
Why risk stripping the bolt?

Go back to shop class. Use the right tool for the job.

 

[DHMag]

has there ever been a suitable/inexpensive replacement for these rare, nearing extinction bolts ? i know its possible to always find one from the SHO Community, but what happens when market depletes ? ive always thought a shoulder bolt, milled/lathed to the correct specs would work...

just a curious question...