umm...yea...stuck

[paulymick]

so i was driving down my street the other day and hit the brakes...to my suprise i hear the sound of metal grinding on metal on my back right brake...i knew my brakes needed to be replaced but i didn't think they were that bad!!!...so i went to the shop...piicked up nnew pads and rotors...and tried throwing them on there tonite...well after disassembling the pads and rotors...i tried to loosen (or tighten?) the caliper to fit snug around the new brake pads...and the caliper would not budge...i have that little cube extension ratchet that your suppose to use and that things sucks...doesn't grip at all...i keep sliding off after trying to tighten it...so now im stuck and don't knw what to do....


do i need new calipers...should i find a different tool?? what should i do...please help because me not fixing/driving my car tomorrow = me going crazy

 

[CerberuS]

so i was driving down my street the other day and hit the brakes...to my suprise i hear the sound of metal grinding on metal on my back right brake...i knew my brakes needed to be replaced but i didn't think they were that bad!!!...so i went to the shop...piicked up nnew pads and rotors...and tried throwing them on there tonite...well after disassembling the pads and rotors...i tried to loosen (or tighten?) the caliper to fit snug around the new brake pads...and the caliper would not budge...i have that little cube extension ratchet that your suppose to use and that things sucks...doesn't grip at all...i keep sliding off after trying to tighten it...so now im stuck and don't knw what to do....


do i need new calipers...should i find a different tool?? what should i do...please help because me not fixing/driving my car tomorrow = me going crazy

Open the bleeder or the line if the bleeder is stuck, while using your cube.

You might have collapsed rear flex lines (rubber ones) and the callipers dont respond , its very common , lines jams , then caliper jams.

 

[DDakRT]

Don't loosen the bleeder, perfect way to introduce air into your lines.

The cube is also trash, throw it out as it's probably the worst invention anyone can possibly come up with. Go to your local auto parts store and rent their "rear caliper retraction tool" or whatever they choose to call it, you'll get it done within seconds.

Edit: when you said metal on metal sound I'm assuming you meant you pads are totally worn, correct?

 

[CerberuS]

Don't loosen the bleeder, perfect way to introduce air into your lines.

The cube is also trash, throw it out as it's probably the worst invention anyone can possibly come up with. Go to your local auto parts store and rent their "rear caliper retraction tool" or whatever they choose to call it, you'll get it done within seconds.

Edit: when you said metal on metal sound I'm assuming you meant you pads are totally worn, correct?

Yea of course you need to bleed afterwards , i thought it was obvious.

 

[DDakRT]

Well if he's just changing pads and rotors, no need to bleed the brakes right.

 

[CerberuS]

Well if he's just changing pads and rotors, no need to bleed the brakes right.

True , depends if he needs the car to run in 5 minutes , or later on (go to store get the tools and so on)

 

[gmorrell]

Don't loosen the bleeder, perfect way to introduce air into your lines.

Belay that order, ensign...

If the rear suspension is hanging free, the rear brake bias valve can completely block return fluid flow to the master cylinder and MC reservoir. As you retract the caliper piston, the fluid has nowhere to go; pressure will build inside the caliper and blow out the piston lip seal. I watched an apparently experienced mechanic do this very thing on someone else's SHO, despite my suggesting that he open the bleeder fitting.

Pick up a brake bleeding bottle from the auto parts store, put a little clean brake fluid in the bottom and connect it to the (open) bleed fitting while the piston is being retracted.

Give you one more hint: Screwing in the caliper piston is much easier if the caliper is firmly attached to the caliper anchor bracket. You have to pull the anchor bracket anyway to remove the rotor, so just re-assemble the bracket and caliper minus the rotor, which puts the caliper on a solid base, as retracting the piston can require some decent force with the simple turning tools like the cube and disc.

The really good piston retracting tools resemble a backwards C-clamp.

 

[DDakRT]

Good point, didn't even think about it. I usually just load up the driver rear suspension instead.

 

[paulymick]

wow fellas...you answered my prayers and so much more...i feel as though i am always on here for help and i never contribute...i mean i know a thing or two about cars...but clearly not enough...

THANKS BIG TIME!!!


ps - yea i was already worn through the pads...you should see them both...my goodness they look bad!!