TROUBLE WP/Timing Belt Replacement

[awb85]

big edit:

It just so happens that in the bottom of the head of the allen tensioner adjustment screw, that there is a t10 head. So it doesn't matter if the allen head is stripped, i'll just adjust it using a t10 driver.

Things seem to be working out after all...

<small>[ January 17, 2004, 09:46 PM: Message edited by: awb85 ]</small>

 

[Bizzy]

Did you loosen the tension pulley bolt first?

You might try a bigger allen? Instead of metric you might have to experiment with metric/US allens to find one that will fit it now. If it's stripped entirely then maybe you can grab it with vice grips to turn it.... (?)

<small>[ January 17, 2004, 10:32 AM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[awb85]

good point doh

i cut the belt and took the pulley off....

now i'll have to see if ill need a new screw/bracket


thanks, guess you can tell i haven't done this before

 

[sdpatt]

I have emailed you a procedure to replace the timing belt. You can see many other SHO procedures in the first topic in this section. You really should read the procedures before trying any repair attempt to prevent the kind of mishaps that you have already experienced.

Do you have a damper puller? How about all the parts you are going to replace? Here is a topic with many of the normally replaced parts during the upper and front end 60K sevices.

 

[awb85]

I have all the parts, and had a conversation with my dad's friend (who has 4 SHO's and has gone through at least 3 water pump replacement procedures. He gave me several tips for things to look out for.

Thank you for emailing me the pages!

 

[awb85]

OK.

Why doesn't the mark on the crankshaft dampener line up with the zero when the campshaft pulley mark's are lined up on the timing belt cover?
The two marks on the camshaft pulleys line up, but the cranshaft dampener isn't even close.

 

[awb85]

I used my brute strength to get teh crankshaft bolt off

no i just gotta line things up

 

[awb85]

Ok,

everything is lined up....getting there

 

[rangerj]

awb85,

There are three bolts that hold the tensioner pulley bracket to the engine. This is true of both tensioner pulley brackets.

Remove the three bolts and the bracket. You will see that the "jack screw", that is the one with the allen head, is threaded through the pulley mounting bolt (stud). On top of the bracket, under the allen head, is a "C" clip that holds the bolt (jack screw). Remove the "C" clip.

Now you can apply some penetrating oil to the threads and back the screw all the way out. If the allen head is "rounded out" then replace the screw with a new one (coated with anti-sieze compound).

If the allen head is still serviceable, then clean up the threads with a wire brush, coat them with anti-sieze compound, and reassemble the "tensioner".

If you have two of these type tensioners do both of them, but do them one at a time so you do not mix up the parts or the bolts that hold them to the block. The bracket bolts are torqued to 11 to 17 ft lbs.

The "washer" that goes on before the nut (that holds the pulley on) is important so don't forget it. The nut is torqued at 25 to 36ft. lbs.

You can use a thread lock like "Lock-tight", or a lock nut, as added insurance against having a pulley "spin-off".
Cheers, rangerj

 

[awb85]

I've taken off the tension bracket (and I no longer have an alignment problem).

I definately need a new bolt. It appears that the head was a little messed up before I even started my job. Where can I get a new allen screw?? Plus, before I install the new screw I have to get the old one out (it's rusted in pretty good...been trying liquid wrench and a blow torch, I'm sure i'll get it eventually).

Thanks for the reply. I'm hoping it's an allen screw I can go pick up somewhere.

 

[rangerj]

awb,

Easy with that blow torch pardner (sic), that bracket is aluminum. A good (old fashion) hardware store should have the allen head screw.
Clean as much of the rust off of the screw as you can before trying to turn it.

If you cannot find it at a hardware store, check with a local machine shop and find out where you can buy "fasteners", as in nuts, bolts, etc.

Be careful with the "jackscrew" that tensions the power steering belt. If I remember right it is "reverse threaded". You may have a snowball's chance in Miami finding one of those! As a last resort you could try a Ford dealership parts dept.

rangerj

 

[awb85]

I got it worked off. Used vice grips and a vice and oil. I'm gonna run it back and forth a little and see about getting an allen wrench to work in the head.

Thanks for the warnign though.

The jack screw is fine. If I can't get an allen screw to work (was jambed up from previous person, the allen wrench doesn't seat in all the way) then I may find myself looking in hardware stores tomarrow.

Thanks!

<small>[ January 17, 2004, 05:17 PM: Message edited by: awb85 ]</small>