Trans mount install hangup

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Cannon762

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Hey guys, this week I got my fun-pack from GearHead, plugs/t-stat/map/tune, added some MSD coils and holy sh&t. Can't believe the difference it made, it's an entirely different car.

Wanted to add some trans mounts, checked with AD first but he doesn't have any currently so figured I'd try the SSM's (street). As a precursor - I'm aware of the dramatics and am entirely not interested in furthering it.

The front mount went in without any issue, ran the bolts out, replaced the part. The rear one however seems to be a couple mm too long, the bracket holes can't line up with the part and rocking the car seems to take it from a couple mm off to several mm off.

I'm going to talk to SSM about this today, but my question is if I'm ok to roll around with one upgraded trans mount and one factory until it gets sorted out? Has this happened with anyone else that you're aware of? Any tips or simple fixes for this I didn't find in my initial searches?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

Ish416

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I had to finger tighten to just a few threads on the front in order to have enough play to rock everything far enough forward to get the rear one in.

Once you get them both started tighten them down and you will be done. I fought with it for quite a while and was certain the rear mount was too long... it wasn't.
 

High on Ethanol

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I put just the rear one on. I had the factory front mount. No issues really. I used a long prybar to wiggle it easily
 

krewat

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I have a 2018, so I have only the rear mount. Drove the car up on ramps (good ones!), set the parking brake, and when I pulled the rear one, the SSM mount went right in, no problem.

If you have too much "preload" on your drivetrain, the engine will be torqued over one way.

But for starters, yeah, disconnect the front one, get the rear one in place, loose, and then try to get the front one on again.

Also, for the record, around June 2016 production date, Ford removed the front strut, and replace the rear with an "uprated" part. The "uprated" part in my 2018 still acted like a bowl full of jello on a hot summer day.

I have a thread here on shoforum.com with the correct info, including the notice from Ford that the front mount was removed and telling service departments not to install one thinking it was missing. Some vehicles still had the ears on the subframe after it was removed, but my 2018 does not. They must have had to use up all the existing subframes.

Knowing that Ford later used a supposedly stiffer part in the rear mount, and no front, I suspect an SSM or AD rear strut would be enough for earlier vehicles. As I said, my 2018 has only the rear, and it's an SSM part, and no issues so far. (I have a spare front SSM strut now).

Did you get the "street" or "track" bushings?
 

krewat

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Oh, and one more thing - did you try getting it in while the transmission is in neutral?
 

SM105K

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I have no issues with mine. My stock mount came straight out, and my AD mounts went straight in. Probably the esasiest and straight forward mod on my car. Car was on jackstands and in park as well.
 

High on Ethanol

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I have no issues with mine. My stock mount came straight out, and my AD mounts went straight in. Probably the esasiest and straight forward mod on my car. Car was on jackstands and in park as well.


My only issue was the stock mount didnt come out easily. So I had to shake shake shake, shake it off lol.

Once it was out, I had no problems. the bolt was sorta angled weird because of the exhaust being so close but the whole process was less than 10min.
 

krewat

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I happened to think... how many miles are on it? Maybe the motor mounts have settled in or gotten sloppy? Does a jack against the transaxle help the alignment of the bolt hole?
 

Kevin81

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I happened to think... how many miles are on it? Maybe the motor mounts have settled in or gotten sloppy? Does a jack against the transaxle help the alignment of the bolt hole?
This.

Check for movement with a jack. Even a couple milimeters is the difference between easy and impossible.
 

Jordan_R

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Big pry bar to move the drivetrain. Also be sure to check the mount for being twisted out the box. Seen an instance of that with ssm.
 

Cannon762

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I had to finger tighten to just a few threads on the front in order to have enough play to rock everything far enough forward to get the rear one in.

Once you get them both started tighten them down and you will be done. I fought with it for quite a while and was certain the rear mount was too long... it wasn't.

I will try this method next. ^

So far I have tried in both park and neutral - I am using a jack on the driver's side to lift and shimmy under.


Big pry bar to move the drivetrain. Also be sure to check the mount for being twisted out the box. Seen an instance of that with ssm.

The parts appear to be straight/untwisted. Can you describe a little further where you'd put the prybar to move the drivetrain?

Car has is a 2016 with 36k
 

Jordan_R

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If the car is on jack stands or ramps trying turning the wheels by hand or pushing the car back and forth while in park. The entire drivetrain should have play in it to the point where it may shift enough that it moves the way you need it too.
 

yaycandy

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Plenty of room for custom bracing under there. I had an idea a while back but I'll probably never do it.
 

Cannon762

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If the car is on jack stands or ramps trying turning the wheels by hand or pushing the car back and forth while in park. The entire drivetrain should have play in it to the point where it may shift enough that it moves the way you need it too.

Got it in using this method. Im going to try the AD mounts whenever he gets some in, these are rough as ****. I'll give them the 200 mile break in period, but unless they calm way down, these aren't for me.
 

High on Ethanol

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The AD mounts are actually stiffer lol

The NVH wasn't for me either. I really hated the way it changed the car overall.
It made me ****** at ford for designing such a ****** drive train layout.
 

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