tools for replacing tie rod ends?

[Sarge1400]

I'm going to replace the inner and outer tie rod ends on my '93 ATX. Other than a pickle fork, are there any special tools needed? I've never done inners before, is it pretty straightforward?

 

[Irish Pride]

You can borrow an inner tie rod tool from most parts stores. It's pretty straight forward. When you remove the outer tie rod count how many times you have to turn it and then when you put the new one on turn it the same amount. That will help getting your alignment close.

 

[Sarge1400]

Well ****, got the tie rod ends replaced, but when I pulled the driver's side inner boot, it had PS fluid in it. I'm guessing it needs a rack now?

Can anyone point me towards a good how-to? I keep reading things like "lower the subframe", and "no, you don't need to lower the subframe, just wiggle it".

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

Hey Sarge. Steering racks are fairly straight forward. Just make sure you have some patience.

First thing you do is Jack the car up(obviously) and set jackstands on the unibody rails.

Remove outer tierods from steering knuckles on each side.

Remove the two 24MM nuts mounting the steering rack to the subframe

Loosen (but do not remove) all 4 subframe bolts on the 4 corners of the subframe.

Place floor jack on the rear of the subframe on either side of the rear of the subframe rails. Remove the 2 rear subframe bolts. Place a jackstand on the opposite subframe rail of the jack near the rear. Slowly lower the subframe on the jackstand.

Remove steering knuckle bolt off the top of the rack from the steering wheel.

Remove pressure and return lines from the rack (REMEMBER WHICH PS GOES TO WHICH INLET, THE THREADPITCHES ARE EXACTLY THE SAME!!)

Pull the rack out either side.


Hope that helps!

 

[rbruso]

You don't need to pull the subframe to get the steering rack out. That said, pulling a steering rack with the subframe in place is a bit like building a ship in a bottle: The larger the opening you make the easier the job is.

You'll want to pull the rack from the driver's side.

1. Break the lug nuts free on both front wheels
2. Jack up the car, placing jack stands at the rails molded into the floor behind the detachable subframe
3. Remove both front wheels
4. Remove the driver's side wheel well splash shield (if you still have one)
5. Detach both outer tie rod ends from the spindles
6. From inside the car, pull back the driver's front carpet to expose the rubber steering boot at the firewall
7. Remove three nuts and peel back the boot
8. Remove the pinch bolt and pull free from the steering rack
9. From under the car, remove the two steering rack nuts (They're quite large, in the 22-26mm range IIRC)
10. (If MTX) While you're down there, detach the shift linkage/shift cables from the transaxle
11. Detach pressure sensor (and VAPS connector, if equipped) from rack
12. Detach pressure and return lines from the rack. You will lose fluid, so put down a catch can. There are four line that screw into the rack. Make sure you're only disconnecting the ones that run to the pump and to the cooler
13. Place a jack under the rear subframe crossrail, closer to the driver's rear corner
14. Remove driver's rear subframe bolt
15. Loosen both front subframe bolts and the passenger's rear subframe bolt. Just loosen enough to allow the driver's rear corner to drop.
16. Slowly lower the rear subframe, paying attention to all wires and the exhaust. If you can't get it down far enough you may need to pull the Y pipe
17. Wiggle the rack out. The two mounting bolts and the input shaft will conspire to hang up on every outcropping available, as will the passenger side outer tie rod end. Fluid in the rack will also take this opportunity to dribble out. There may also be a small check valve in one of the now open ports on the rack that may try to escape at this point

Installation is roughly the reverse. Make sure the captive nut on the pressure and return lines are turning freely before attempting to reinstall or you may strip the threads on the rack. Ask me how I know about that one

Also, if the new rack comes with teflon o-rings you should use them. If they don't easily fit on to the captive nuts you can expand them by sliding them down a lightly oiled tapered punch until they are almost big enough.

After installation, fill the steering reservoir, start the engine, check for leaks, then crank the wheel back and forth to the ends of its travel to help purge the system of air.

 

[Sarge1400]

Thanks guys.
What's the best place to get a replacement rack? Haven't read too much good about the Cardone reman racks.

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

That's about it for remans. I think some ebay stores rebuild their own. But that's about it.

 

[SHOtime2511]

Hit or miss. A reman rack might last the life of the car or you might get 3 months out of it.
If you can find a motorcraft at a decent price,that would be the best bet.

 

[Sarge1400]

Well the leaked had slowed down for a month or so, but she's back to really leaking again. I ordered a rack from SHOSource last night, will use the instructions provided above to swap it out when it shows up.

Not looking forward to it, but what ya gonna do?

 

[Sarge1400]

Finally got around to replacing the rack today. What a pain!

One thing that would have made it a lot easier would have been to r&r the VAPS module while the rack was still in the car. I know it can be done, because I put mine back on after installing the new rack.

At any rate, I'm glad it's finally done.

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

Where'd you end up getting the new rack from?

 

[Sarge1400]

Where'd you end up getting the new rack from?

shosource.com