Mr. SHO
New Member
My car just failed inspection for a bad inner tie rod end on the driver's side. Has anyone changed the inner tie rod ends on a Gen3 SHO before? I want to do it myself, since the shop quoted me 6 hours labor.
Tie rod ends.
- Thread starter Mr. SHO
- Start date
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Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Just as 'simple' as any other Taurus or Sable. Just borrow the tool from AutoZone for free and go at it. IIWM, I'd do the inners and outers on both sides at the same time since you're going to have to pay for an alignment anyway, and at under $80 in parts it's cheap insurance so you shouldn't have to worry about them again for another long while.
FWIW, you'll probably find it's easier to use a regular hose clamp on the inner half of the boot at the rack since the Oetiker tool is very difficult to get in close enough to be able to clamp the boot clamp.
FWIW, you'll probably find it's easier to use a regular hose clamp on the inner half of the boot at the rack since the Oetiker tool is very difficult to get in close enough to be able to clamp the boot clamp.
Mr. SHO
New Member
Thanks. That's exactly what I plan to do. I read a how-to on SHOTimes which recommended the use of hose clamps on the boots as well.
I went ahead and ordered new Moog inner and outer tie rod ends for both sides. I also ordered the Lisle #45750 tool ($50), which allows you to remove/install the inner tie rods even if there is an obstruction before the wrench slots (as is the case on most newer Ford inner tie rod ends.) I'll get the tie rod end seperator on loan from AutoZone. All told, I spent under $200 for the parts, and I'm hoping the project will take less than a full day.
I'll update when I get the parts and attempt the swap. Wish me luck!
I went ahead and ordered new Moog inner and outer tie rod ends for both sides. I also ordered the Lisle #45750 tool ($50), which allows you to remove/install the inner tie rods even if there is an obstruction before the wrench slots (as is the case on most newer Ford inner tie rod ends.) I'll get the tie rod end seperator on loan from AutoZone. All told, I spent under $200 for the parts, and I'm hoping the project will take less than a full day.
I'll update when I get the parts and attempt the swap. Wish me luck!
Mr. SHO
New Member
Mission accomplished!
That was easy. Took me a little over two hours. I had to drop the rear subframe a bit to access the inner bellows clamps. Other than that, everything went very smoothly. I can't believe they wanted to charge me $560+ alignment for that!
That was easy. Took me a little over two hours. I had to drop the rear subframe a bit to access the inner bellows clamps. Other than that, everything went very smoothly. I can't believe they wanted to charge me $560+ alignment for that!
TimboSHO
Intermediate
Nice Job! Could the book time be that much if it only took you 2 hours? Wow!
Mr. SHO
New Member
TimboSHO said:
Well, that was the problem... it wasn't the "book time." This was an independent shop that was giving me their estimate based on the pitiful knowledge they have of the SHO. :jpshakeh:
SHOCRUZR
New Member
I've searched the forum for instructions on how to replace the inner tie rods and found this. Basically I am asking if you can do a write up on how to replace the inner tie rods.
The reason I am thinking of replacing the inner tie rod is the jam nut on the passenger side outer tie rod end is frozen. I tried PB Blaster and even torched it and it still wouldn't turn. I have not tried to loosen the driver side yet because of this. There's a little slop in the steering after I replaced the passenger side hub & bearing assembly.
I need help with the instructions on how to do this. I looked at Alldatadiy.com and it doesn't give the instructions.
The reason I am thinking of replacing the inner tie rod is the jam nut on the passenger side outer tie rod end is frozen. I tried PB Blaster and even torched it and it still wouldn't turn. I have not tried to loosen the driver side yet because of this. There's a little slop in the steering after I replaced the passenger side hub & bearing assembly.
I need help with the instructions on how to do this. I looked at Alldatadiy.com and it doesn't give the instructions.
SHOCRUZR
New Member
I've searched the forum for instructions on how to replace the inner tie rods and found this. Basically I am asking if you can do a write up on how to replace the inner tie rods.
The reason I am thinking of replacing the inner tie rod is the jam nut on the passenger side outer tie rod end is frozen. I tried PB Blaster and even torched it and it still wouldn't turn. I have not tried to loosen the driver side yet because of this. There's a little slop in the steering after I replaced the passenger side hub & bearing assembly.
I need help with the instructions on how to do this. I looked at Alldatadiy.com and it doesn't give the instructions.
The reason I am thinking of replacing the inner tie rod is the jam nut on the passenger side outer tie rod end is frozen. I tried PB Blaster and even torched it and it still wouldn't turn. I have not tried to loosen the driver side yet because of this. There's a little slop in the steering after I replaced the passenger side hub & bearing assembly.
I need help with the instructions on how to do this. I looked at Alldatadiy.com and it doesn't give the instructions.
Mr. SHO
New Member
http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...e=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=112
Those instructions are for the lesser SHO (V6) but they will get you through the job with no problems. You will NEED the inner tie rod tool I mentioned above.
WRT the jam nut, I have heard of this problem many times. My solution is to put the outer end back into the hub/knuckle and tighten the castle nut snugly. Then go to it--using the hub/knuckle allows you to get both hands on the wrench and break the jam nut free. Theoretically, this is a no-no, but I don't think you'll damage the knuckle.
Also, the "pickle fork" (tie rod seperator) didn't fit over the stem on the outer tie rod. I had to break the rules again and whack the outer tie rod end loose from underneath with a BFH (big ___-ing hammer).
Those instructions are for the lesser SHO (V6) but they will get you through the job with no problems. You will NEED the inner tie rod tool I mentioned above.
WRT the jam nut, I have heard of this problem many times. My solution is to put the outer end back into the hub/knuckle and tighten the castle nut snugly. Then go to it--using the hub/knuckle allows you to get both hands on the wrench and break the jam nut free. Theoretically, this is a no-no, but I don't think you'll damage the knuckle.
Also, the "pickle fork" (tie rod seperator) didn't fit over the stem on the outer tie rod. I had to break the rules again and whack the outer tie rod end loose from underneath with a BFH (big ___-ing hammer).
SHO Squall
New Member
Book time depends on which book you look at. AllDataDIY shows .9 hours for both ends (or .5 for one), and to add .3 hours per inner. Doesn't include alignment.
Book time according to the stealer is over 6 hours, because they "have to drop the steering rack". The only reason I called them is because I couldn't get the end to budge on the passenger side, and the locknut was frozen on the driver's side.
I asked one of my co-workers, whose father owns a used car lot, who to go to for tie rods. I called that guy up, he quoted me just under 2 hours. I took my own parts there (Federal Mogul/TRW/Moog), they installed in about an hour and 45 minutes, good as new. He showed me the old rods and ends. The ungreasable original ends were shot, pretty loose, and the inners were completely hosed up. The nut end was flopping all over the place like it was its job to do so. Absolutely no pre-tension left whatsoever (I found this same thing when I got one of the ends from the knucle a few weeks earlier).
Oh, and they couldn't get the passenger side end loose, either. They had to cut it off (not that it mattered, since they were replacing the whole assembly, but I think they wanted to be able to work on the inners without the end flopping around).
Bottom line, if you're doing the work yourself, get the tool, and replace all 4 "pieces" while you're in there. If you're planning on buying new tires in a few months (but not right away), get a "quickie" alignment to get the toe re-set, and then get a full alignment when you get your new tires. Otherwise, get a full alignment after you're done replacing the tierods.
Book time according to the stealer is over 6 hours, because they "have to drop the steering rack". The only reason I called them is because I couldn't get the end to budge on the passenger side, and the locknut was frozen on the driver's side.
I asked one of my co-workers, whose father owns a used car lot, who to go to for tie rods. I called that guy up, he quoted me just under 2 hours. I took my own parts there (Federal Mogul/TRW/Moog), they installed in about an hour and 45 minutes, good as new. He showed me the old rods and ends. The ungreasable original ends were shot, pretty loose, and the inners were completely hosed up. The nut end was flopping all over the place like it was its job to do so. Absolutely no pre-tension left whatsoever (I found this same thing when I got one of the ends from the knucle a few weeks earlier).
Oh, and they couldn't get the passenger side end loose, either. They had to cut it off (not that it mattered, since they were replacing the whole assembly, but I think they wanted to be able to work on the inners without the end flopping around).
Bottom line, if you're doing the work yourself, get the tool, and replace all 4 "pieces" while you're in there. If you're planning on buying new tires in a few months (but not right away), get a "quickie" alignment to get the toe re-set, and then get a full alignment when you get your new tires. Otherwise, get a full alignment after you're done replacing the tierods.
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Mr. SHO said:
Tip on both the V6 and V8 cars in order to get the tie rod end to pop out of the knuckle: the trick is to hit the knuckle with a 6 lb. sledge on the side of the tie rod end boss. It should only take 2 or 3 good whacks, and the tie rod end should pop loose nicely.
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