Tibiron control arms?

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inverse1216

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ok well i was putting in the h-brace in my car today and since i took everything apart im going to buy some adj. control arms.

now my buddy works at a dealership and had takin out a 2004 hyundia tibiron gt v6 6 speed very nice car. anyway as i was checking out the exhaust i noticed it has 4 adj. control arms :naughty: that look like they would fit. i measured the length of the stock SHO's and the tibirons ours is 26 inches and the tibirons is 24 but you can adjust it out to make up the 2 inches if they come out that much.

so i guess what im asking is does anyone know about this or have done this with these arms? will they work? im going to go ahead and track some down and see if they will work out. is there any other measurements i need to take that would matter?

it would be nice if they work out cause then we have another source for adj. control arms.

thanks

andy
 

LOUDSHO92

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I would wonder if they are good out an extra 2" also you would need to make sure that the hole diameter is right (14mm) and that the widths are correct.
 

luigisho

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2" sounds like alot of difference in this case. You have to undo them all the way to be sure there is enough thread left to be stable. If so, it would be another nice find.
 

SHO Dude

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We still have our Original Aluminum Rear Control Arms. Got 2 sets in stock.
 

inverse1216

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SHO Dude said:
We still have our Original Aluminum Rear Control Arms. Got 2 sets in stock.

shodude, i just took a look at the picture you have on your website, are your pieces adjustable? also is there a mounting bracket of some sort for that little spring looking think that sits on the left hand side control arm? i think its for the ebrake or brake related. thanks

luigisho/loudsho92, i know 2 inches is a big difference and if there isnt enough there i was thinking just replacing it with a longer threaded rod to make up for the difference. i didnt measure the width of the ends where the bolts slide through ill see if i can get it tho. to me it didnt look to small.

andy
 

luigisho

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Where are you going to get a longer threaded rod? Don't you need the ends with the bushings welded on one end of each rod? If you can do that, you can make your own adjustable rear control arms.
 

Yamaha V6

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Doug's arms are top-notch & the beefiest things since Omaha Steaks. They're pricey, but quality usually is. About the only thing I'd suggest they do to make them better is machine a set of flats for a large wrench to make turning them easier, and perhaps some degree marks on the end (ie, 60 degrees or whatever turned on the arm = .5 degree of camber change, etc.).
 

inverse1216

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Yamaha V6 said:
Doug's arms are top-notch & the beefiest things since Omaha Steaks. They're pricey, but quality usually is. About the only thing I'd suggest they do to make them better is machine a set of flats for a large wrench to make turning them easier, and perhaps some degree marks on the end (ie, 60 degrees or whatever turned on the arm = .5 degree of camber change, etc.).

so i take it they are adjustable? i cant tell from the picture.

luigisho, my garage :) i probably dont have the right size but you can buy threaded rod at any hardware store just about anylength. i dont need to weld the ends with bushings on becuase the rest of the control arm has those. i would utilize the ends of the control arms and just insert the lenght of threaded rod i need in the center.
 

luigisho

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inverse1216 said:
luigisho, my garage :) i probably dont have the right size but you can buy threaded rod at any hardware store just about anylength. i dont need to weld the ends with bushings on becuase the rest of the control arm has those. i would utilize the ends of the control arms and just insert the lenght of threaded rod i need in the center.

As long as strength isn't compromised I think you have a winner there.

I would advise against bias plugs for the rears. The only way I would consider messing with the bias valve again is if I had Doug from FPS adjust it. It's too much bias to the rear with the plugs.
 

inverse1216

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luigisho said:
As long as strength isn't compromised I think you have a winner there.

I would advise against bias plugs for the rears. The only way I would consider messing with the bias valve again is if I had Doug from FPS adjust it. It's too much bias to the rear with the plugs.

to be honest im not to sure what those are for? dont they make sure that the same amount of pressure is sent to each side?
 

luigisho

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When working properly they are supposed to crudely regulate the proportion of brake load at the rear wheels. Think of it like a ratio or percentage such as 90% front 10% rear. They adjust a little in some instances such as if there were more weight in the rear of the vehicle for some reason. The stock setting isn't perfect and can be improved upon, but a wide open setting is not a better chioce than stock.
 

inverse1216

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luigisho said:
When working properly they are supposed to crudely regulate the proportion of brake load at the rear wheels. Think of it like a ratio or percentage such as 90% front 10% rear. They adjust a little in some instances such as if there were more weight in the rear of the vehicle for some reason. The stock setting isn't perfect and can be improved upon, but a wide open setting is not a better chioce than stock.

yeah thats along the lines of what i thought they did. isnt more of a track application vs. road driving. what do you think of the control arms at shobrosgarage? i just took a look at thiers and might go with them. that way i know they will work.
 

luigisho

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That price isn't bad. You might be able to get some cheap at the junkyard but for new units the price is good. Also check around on the board because you might have to trim a few threads off each rod to shorten it maybe 1/2"-1". It's been a while since I put these on my car but I think I remember trimming a little.
 

SHO Continental

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luigisho said:
When working properly they are supposed to crudely regulate the proportion of brake load at the rear wheels. Think of it like a ratio or percentage such as 90% front 10% rear. They adjust a little in some instances such as if there were more weight in the rear of the vehicle for some reason. The stock setting isn't perfect and can be improved upon, but a wide open setting is not a better chioce than stock.

The Bias valve just cuts pressure to the rears it doesn't actually change anything on the front.
 

Shoaz

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The purpose of the bias valve is to reduce the effectiveness of the rear brakes under hard braking. When braking hard with substantial weight transfer to the front of the car the rear springs will unload and the rear ride height raise (due to the weight transfer). When this happens the bias valve reduces flow to the rear brakes so that they don't lock up as the rear wheels unload.

It's a very simple and effective system, I like it a lot even at the track. The only real downside is it works differently during right turns than left turns since it's mounted to the left side control arm. Ah, well, I guess optimizing performance under trail braking wasn't a priority for the Taurus engineers. ;)
 

inverse1216

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luigisho said:
That price isn't bad. You might be able to get some cheap at the junkyard but for new units the price is good. Also check around on the board because you might have to trim a few threads off each rod to shorten it maybe 1/2"-1". It's been a while since I put these on my car but I think I remember trimming a little.

yeah i remember reading that also. ill see once they are on the car. ive checked with local yards and from what i understand these control arms came off of 2002 gtp's and the yards around me dont have anything that new.

Another option is to press a second set of essentric bushings in to the control arms.

please explain. where would i get these bushings and what is the benifit?

thanks

andy
 

luigisho

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SHO Continental said:
The Bias valve just cuts pressure to the rears it doesn't actually change anything on the front.

That's correct. However if the rears are doing more or less of the total force applied then the ratio changes.
 

LOUDSHO92

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I dont think the eccentric busings give you what you need in the case of a lowered SHO.
 

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