TCE SHOstopper brake kit

[92inPA]

Is anyone still using Todd's BSL brake setup? This is the kit that uses the 12.19" x .810" rotors and Billet Superlite calipers? Just wondering how many of these kits are still in use.

 

[jlandes]

TCE brakes

I'm currently running the 13x.81" set up. In the next couple of months, I will be going up to a 13x1.25" set up with new FSL calipers. I do about 20 track days a year and really need the extra thermal capacity. They really are the absolute best brakes you can buy, quiet and low dust free with street pads and in 5 minutes you can swap to race pads to out stop the sports cars on the track with no fade. I highly recommend Todd's stuff. Jess

 

[BlackonBlack89]

I am not using these right now but I got them off ebay at a ridiculously cheap price for what they went when new.

Here a pic of what they look like. They are the TCE sho stopper Jr kit. I am pretty sure these were the cheaper pair. (when offered)

 

[SinisterSHO]

My old roommate had a TCE kit on his red 89. I'm not sure if it was the BSL or the forged caliper off the top of my head. He has had them probably for 3 or 4 years.

 

[Lance Cheney]

I am not using these right now but I got them off ebay at a ridiculously cheap price for what they went when new.

Here a pic of what they look like. They are the TCE sho stopper Jr kit. I am pretty sure these were the cheaper pair. (when offered)

I didn't realize Todd ever sold any kits with those little calipers (radial mount... interesting).

I have parts for a 13x0.81" kit sitting here as well -- old BSL calipers, 'slicer-clearance' extra-thick hats, brand new directional rotors, etc. I would agree that the thermal mass on the ***x0.81" kits can be marginal for the track but at least the 13" ones are directional-vaned, which helps. I'm piecing together a FSL 12.2/13x1.25" upgrade right now instead though, as I was having problems with the old 12x1.05" Mustang rotors + PBR calipers. The big advantage with the old kit is the weight -- especially with the old BSL calipers, which weigh almost nothing. I wouldn't be surprised if for drag strip use the 2-piece 12.2"x0.81" rotor setup is lighter than even an 11" kit with the lightweight PBR calipers, while providing better braking.

-Lance

 

[Toolman]

I have a TCE 13x0.81 kit right now. What all do I need to upgrade to the 1.10 setup? New hats? Different calipers? I am sure they will be fine for a while, but I want the extra capacity of the 1.10. Thanks!

 

[Lance Cheney]

Recommendation from Todd (and I'd second this...) would be to get a new set of FSLs in the 1.10" width. You'll probably need new hats, depending on the existing offset of the hats you have, but if they were the 'slicer-optimized' kit then any width you add to the rotor is going to push it right into the ball joint, so you need a lower-offset hat replacement. Figure on new rotors + hats costing around $500. It's not a cheap upgrade but if you're going from the old flexi-flyer billet superlites to the forged ones it should be a noticeable pedal-feel difference in addition to an obvious major increase in thermal capacity.

I got a pair of new 1.25" wide FSLs off of Ebay for under $300 shipped. I got a set of low-offset hats from Todd and some 13.375" x 1.32" wide rotors -- the air gap alone is almost 95% as wide as those 0.81" rotors you're using now, they have thick walls, and minimal extra weight -- in fact they are noticeably lighter than the 11.6" rotors I had since they only have material in the 'fire ring' where the pad contacts, and they mount to the hat on a 12 x 8.375" bolt circle... Just have to cut the brackets and put them on the car. With good pads this should be a setup fit for a 600hp car, so I just need to post up pics now (maybe when I get home ).

-Lance

 

[Toolman]

Hmm, any chance you want to sell it?

 

[Lance Cheney]

Nope, the car has been sitting in the garage for 3 months while work has taken most of my time, and I finally decided what I was going to do and now I have all the parts... It's going back together! (in 2 weeks, when I get back from my business trip to Israel...)

Rotors, from top to bottom (the centers align so you can see the diameter difference as well as the thickness): 11.6" 96+ brakes, 12.2"x0.81" Wilwood ring, 13.0 x 0.81" directional-vaned ring, 13.375 x 1.32" directional-vaned ring.

You pay about $80 for the privilege of going to >1.25" width and >13.1" diameter, and about $60 or so to get the larger hats (12x8.375" vs. 8x7.625"), so just the rotors alone were almost $700 with shipping. I just don't want to ever have to replace them again or have issues at the track with them.

-Lance

 

[Shoaz]

Holy crap! That top pic is pretty revealing.

Lance will be the prime suspect if any manhole covers go missing in Davis the next time he needs a rotor replacement.

 

[K-Dawg]

I think those fall under the definition of "pimpin".

 

[gmorrell]

Boy, I had a twinge of rotor-envy there...

Are there any pills I can get off the internet to fix that?

 

[Shoaz]

I suspect the gyroscopic forces are going to prevent him from turning.

 

[kmetros]

Tim,

Once you upgrade, don't forget to recycle your old parts. Here's what I did with the BSL calipers I pulled off my car!

The setup is mounted on a rear hub so the whole assembly spins. My 3 year old son loves it.....it's in his room. For some reason, my wife didn't want it in our room??

 

[DeaconBlue]

Dang! And I though my 13" x 1.25" rotor setup from Todd for the C5/C6 pin drive PBR calipers was over the top. "Not any more!"

 

[somedude_001]

that is a big rotor. So do you have the only SHO in existance that can't fade its brakes?

 

[gmorrell]

For some reason, my wife didn't want it in our room??

Maybe because you wanted to mount it over the bed?

 

[Todd TCE]

Product update:

Have not produced a kit for this car in well over a year. A call recently but so far it went nowhere.

"Classic SHOstoppers" were 12.2 x .81 strictly for the need to fit 16" Slicer wheels.
"SHOstopper 13s" were a larger 13 x. .81 for those wanting to go larger for 17" wheels.
"New SHOstoppers" are 13 x 1.10 the preferred spec for aftermarket 17s.

The older 12.2 could be fit with 13s and keep the caliper.
The older hats (mondo wheel spacer built in) can be turned and thinned to fit any wheel.
The New kits share nothing with the older kits- new hats, rotors, calipers.

You cannot go from any .81 kit to any wider product without changing all the related items. The fit of 1.25 or wider is also the same deal; new hats calipers etc. As the rotor width increase the hat offset must be reduced to keep the total package the same or it hits the ball joint. When doing this the caliper needs to spec the rotor and the rotor centerline is now changed and needs to move outward also.

The Jr. kit was a good plan years ago but never really took off. By todays cost it was a good deal but back then it was considered costly. And the caliper of choice was not really the ideal piston area. Today if we did this again I'd use the DP caliper for a number of reasons. Goal here was to slap on a multi piston caliper to the late model rotor. Today that means about zip given sub 12" rotors are so yesterday...

 

[ManySHOs]

Interesting timing with this thread. I was just searching my old emails with Todd to find the rotor and bracket pricing to go from my 12.2x1.1 up to a 13x1.1.

I was interested in 13x1.25 until you mentioned $700 for a pair of rotors.

I'm still trying to figure out a radial mount solution for the gen3 spindles if I step up to a gen3 subframe but I need new front rotors like yesterday.

If you're still running 12.2 x .81 with BSL's, you need to step up to 1.1 with FSL's. The difference is night and day.

Ian

 

[Todd TCE]

He's talking rotors and hats. Rings alone are about $225 but you need a different hat offset when you change rotor width.