Eastcoast SHO
SHO
i bought a 24mm sway bar and want to install it, can someone direct me in the proper procedure for installation thanks
sway bar installation
- Thread starter Eastcoast SHO
- Start date
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St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
Remove rear subframe bolts. Remove sway bar links. Lower subframe about
2" remove 4 13mm bolts. Persuade swaybar to come out. Re-install in reverse order
2" remove 4 13mm bolts. Persuade swaybar to come out. Re-install in reverse order
Eastcoast SHO
SHO
do i need anything special(brackets, bushings etc.) well i have bushings but should it just fit right in?
JEM
SHO Member
Make sure you have working room to either side of the car as you've got to pull the bar out to the side.
Personally, I think a 24mm front bar is too much unless you've got a Quaife, and even then a 22mm front bar is usually better, but to each their own.
Eastcoast SHO
SHO
will the original brackets for the bushings fit the bigger bar or do i have to buy new ones?
Ishodu
SHO Member
New ones that fit the bar will be required
Eastcoast SHO
SHO
does anyone know where i can get those brackets?
johndallara
Active Member
24mm front sway bar upgrade
I think that the upgrade to 24mm front swaybar will only require the new bushings. The stock bracket should be fine.
Trick with this is to have a little patience. I have done this twice on the front end. Most bang for the buck is to support the frame of the car, and lower the rear of the subframe a little to get the bar out and to make better access to the swaybar brackets and bolts.
First you need to disconnect the front swaybar end links from the bar so it can rotate.
What I did was use a bottle jack x2 to lower the rear of the subframe. Once you have the subframe supported, loosen the 24mm nuts connecting the power steering rack to the subframe. This will allow the subframe to lower when you next loosen the rear subframe bolts.
You may need to loosen the front subframe bolts a little to give the play you need. Once this is done, and the rear of the subframe is lowered a little, the bar is a cinch.
Be sure to ****/grease the new bushings well, and torque them to spec. -- don't break the bolts on the swaybar bracket, or you are dead.
While you are there, replacing the end-links is a good idea. Also I would use TPR if you can afford it -- RCM has them
http://home.earthlink.net/~rcm_automotive/index.html
also check out these posts:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=70382
PM or post back if you have any trouble with this project. Like most suspension jobs, well worth the time.
JD
I think that the upgrade to 24mm front swaybar will only require the new bushings. The stock bracket should be fine.
Trick with this is to have a little patience. I have done this twice on the front end. Most bang for the buck is to support the frame of the car, and lower the rear of the subframe a little to get the bar out and to make better access to the swaybar brackets and bolts.
First you need to disconnect the front swaybar end links from the bar so it can rotate.
What I did was use a bottle jack x2 to lower the rear of the subframe. Once you have the subframe supported, loosen the 24mm nuts connecting the power steering rack to the subframe. This will allow the subframe to lower when you next loosen the rear subframe bolts.
You may need to loosen the front subframe bolts a little to give the play you need. Once this is done, and the rear of the subframe is lowered a little, the bar is a cinch.
Be sure to ****/grease the new bushings well, and torque them to spec. -- don't break the bolts on the swaybar bracket, or you are dead.
While you are there, replacing the end-links is a good idea. Also I would use TPR if you can afford it -- RCM has them
http://home.earthlink.net/~rcm_automotive/index.html
also check out these posts:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=70382
PM or post back if you have any trouble with this project. Like most suspension jobs, well worth the time.
JD
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