Suspension reassembly

[Markus]

I have the entire suspension sytem off the car and I'm just about to install new struts, springs, strut mounts and bearings, sway bar end links and bushings, lower control arms, strut rod bushings, subframe bushings, and engine and transmission mounts. I did inner and outer tie rod ends 3 months ago. And now for the questions:


1) I have new OEM end links and it appears (from reading this forum) that they do not always have enough grease inside them. Should I remove one of the rubber boot clips and add grease to make the links last longer? I have a hypodermic like fitting for my gease gun but I really don't want to pierce a hole in the boot.

2) When installing the new nuts and bolts, which ones (if any) should I use loctite on? To which ones, before assembly, should I apply anti sieze? After torquing the fasteners, should I apply anti sieze to the exposed bolt threads?

3) Should I lubricate bushings will silicon grease? I'm pretty sure I should not grease the subframe bushings.

4) Are there any tips/tricks you can pass my way?


Thanks

 

[93redATX]

I would definately NOT use loctite, as you will hate yourself when it comes time to get the bolts back out again. The rust will take care of the bolts just fine, it doesn't need any help

As for anti-seize, I'd use a little bit on all of the bolts. Like I said before, rust will make sure you don't have to worry about anything coming loose. The last vehicle I did suspension work on was originally a Florida car, and had only been in WI two years. The rust on the nuts and bolts made doing the suspension a real chore.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Do not use locktite or antisieze on any of the bolts.
A torque wrench does have a purpose.

I used TPR bushings throughout in my suspension overhaul, and I geased up every one with a synthetic wheel bearing grease.

 

[FAST4DR]

I put anti-seize on every single nut/bolt on the car except the brake bolts. I use blue locktight on those. Anti-seize is the best. I don't know what notsoslowsho is saying about a torque wrench? I torque every important bolt on the car to specs and Anti-seize provides a lubricant and lets you smoothly reach a torque value, instead of possibly getting an erroneous torque value because of some rust or something. I also used synthetic grease on all the tpr bushings and also liberaly coated the metal that they touch and is inside a bushing that might get water into it. Like the strut locating links.

Long live Anti-seize................

Will

 

[NJSHO]

I did remove the rubber boots on the end links and added more grease. On the design of end link I had there was a o-ring holding the boot to the plastic part. I carefully removed the o-ring, pried part of the boot back (couldn’t get it off completely,) jammed a grease gun in there and filled the entire boot with grease. I don’t know if this is going to help the end links but I figured it couldn't hurt them.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

The only place I use anti-seize is the manifold to y-pipe bolts.
Simply because the hot/cold cycle "freezes" metal joints.

If you are getting an erroneous torque value because of rust, then clean the rust off! Wire wheels work wonders.

Why would you want anti-seize on something that you WANT to stay put?
Antiseze coats every facit of the threads, a type of lubrication. You dont want lubrocated suspension bolts. You need a metal on metal connection.

You dont need to take the suspension apart every 5k miles, and you sure as heck dont want it coming apart on you on the highway!