Suspension Questions

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ddawson

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Ok I received my BMR rear control arms. I'll be installing them this weekend.

For the guys that have used these do they need to be shortened at all??

I have the plugs for the Brake Brackets and the SHONut GTP kit. I'm also replacing the sway bar bushings/end links while I'm under there.

Any suggestions on alignment setting would be much appreciated. I was thinking for the front
Max caster, -1 camber and 0 toe. For the rear -.5 Camber and 0 toe. Thoughts???
 

shojuan

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ddawson:
Ok I received my BMR rear control arms. I'll be installing them this weekend.

For the guys that have used these do they need to be shortened at all??

I have the plugs for the Brake Brackets and the SHONut GTP kit. I'm also replacing the sway bar bushings/end links while I'm under there.

Any suggestions on alignment setting would be much appreciated. I was thinking for the front
Max caster, -1 camber and 0 toe. For the rear -.5 Camber and 0 toe. Thoughts???
I'm jealous of the BMR arms! Happy for ya! thumb The alignment settings sound good. When I finish my suspension (probably finish sunday and receive my alignment tools monday) I'm going to shoot for -.25 to -.5 Camber at all four corners. Maybe even aiming more towards the -.25 side. If those settings aren't aggressive enough for me then I will increase the negative camber, but I wouldn't go more than -1 on the street. I'm sick of buying tires prematurely. Since I'm doing it myself it's not a big deal. Since you're paying somebody to do it just keep in mind the negative 1.0 setting up front *might* increase your tire wear a noticible amount...How much, I dunno.

The other settings sound exactly like I've been hearing here and that's what I'm going to use: Max caster and 0 toe at all four corners.
 

FAST4DR

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Dan,

No, they do not need to be shortened. I installed mine with the adjuster towards the wheels but I guess you could install them either way. I had the alignment shop put my alignment at -.7 to -.8 front and -.2 to -.3 rear 0 toe all around and the front caster was 4.3 degrees. The car handles great! and tracks perfectly straight. Email me if you want any other pics or questions. Here is some pics of my install. BMR links

Here is my Alignment Sheet

Will
 

ddawson

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One question Will. What's the TQ spec for the suspension points?

Thanks for the info.
 

FAST4DR

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ddawson:
One question Will. What's the TQ spec for the suspension points?

Thanks for the info.
Arm to wheel spindle - (44-59 lb-ft)

Arm to center torque box - (50-68 lb-ft)

For the swaybar it is (25-33 lb-ft) for the bolt(s) to the body. It says (5-7 lb-ft) for the end links. On my end links, I just tightened the bolts the same on both side until they crushed the bushings a little.

Will
 

Shoaz

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My BMRs showed up a few days ago. They're sitting in the garage until some more parts arrive.

I will say, though, that these are very nice pieces. Well constructed, well thought-out and very stout.

Putting the turnbuckles on the wheel end of the arm will make alignments much easier. This is one of the reasons I settled on installing these units.

The FPS arms have a lock nut on each end which requires accessing the torque box to adjust alignment. They also require drilling out the torque box and the spindle to 1/2".

I like the BMR design much better, but we'll see how things go once they're on. Reports from users here have been positive so far.
 

ddawson

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The installation was easy but I found that the two front L&R bushings were squeezing out on the H-Brace because they weren't straight. Adding a washer to the knuckle at all four locations fixed the problem.

Thanks to the forum for that solution. I can't wait to get it aligned so I can go for a ride. I replaced all the sway bar bushings while I was under there. Is it just me or is removing the bottom bolt from the front sway bar bushing difficult??

I had to drop the sub frame about an inch to get an open end on that one.
 

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