Supporting the engine off the oil pan is OK. You just have to use common sense with this, that's all. Get two plywood boards of the same dimensions and as large as you can possibly place under the motor. the wider the space of contact, the less pressure you're putting on the pan in a certain spot. I don't rmeember dimensions, but I've done my mounts & my subframe bushings this way. The bushings are easy to do, but the second you pull that bolt out of the subframe, the subframe WILL shift. This makes the job a tad bit more complicated because you have to slip in the new bushings, align the subframe to get the bolt through, and then work the bolt in, but don't tighten it just yet! Do the same fo the other bushing and then snug them down. Once both are OK and snug, tighten them up and do the other side. So to recap, do two subframe bushings at a time.. I had a tall hydraulic jack and did them side by side (left side first then the right side).. I'd imagine aligning the subframe would possibly be easier if you did front and back, but I'd take extra precaution while doing this and support the unbolted area of the subframe...
As for the motor mounts. Make sure you disconnect both mounts from the subframe as well as the trans mount FIRST so you can lift up the motor easier.. Also, on the front motor mount, I unbolted the upper bolt and loosened the bottom both so the mount and move around. I did this for installing and removing the mount. Why? because when you come around to lowering the motor, you'll see that the bolt that fits into the subframe will be misaligned with the hole. This is because the motor doesn't lift up straight, it tilts back more so then forward when it seats in the subframe. What i did was lowered the motor w/ only the bolt right behind the lower radiator hose installed. Don't tighten it! Just screw it in there so that bolt properly aligns with the motor mount. Then, adjust the mount as needed and guide it into the subframe, watch your fingers..!!! After it's in the subframe, simply stick the bolt through the mounts opening and lift/lower the motor as needed until it slips through and voila! You're done! My motor mount isntall the 2nd time took a mere 35min or so.. the Subframe was a BITCH because my left front subframe nut (that the bolt screws into fro the bushing) snapped.. so i had to pull that one outta there and install my own bolt, washer and nut. Hard stuff, but well worth the ride of the Delrin bushings.. which I'm now assuming are responsible for my torque steer because I was told they should be retightned every 3k-5k miles... I've put roughly 6k on them w/o checking them... The difference in steering response was ungodly! Definitely worth the $$$!!!
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Neno & The '91 Dark SHO
SHOCAGO Enthusiasts Club -
http://www.shocago.com
137K Mi., Black on Black/Mocha Interior, '94 Mark VIII Rims, 225/50VR16 Comp TA VR, Rod Shifter Converted (Broken stabilizer bolt, still sitting in my trans housing!), SHO Nut Reinforced Motor mounts, Coneless, 3.2L larger crossover tube for intake installed (sure did make the intake LOUDER!), Delrin SFBs, Semi-loud exhaust system...
Ready To Install: Subframe Connectors and Intrax springs instead of Eibachs?
Coming Soon?Konis/Poly setup
[This message has been edited by DemonNeno (edited 12-21-2001).]
