93VantuckySHO
Member
Good evening bulls. Its time for struts! Is it absolutely necessary to pull the axles when doing them? Looks pretty straight forward. Bath in PB Blaster and go for it? Car is a 93 sho atx. Thanks guys!
Struts and LCA
- Thread starter 93VantuckySHO
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
You don't need to pull them from the transmission.
93VantuckySHO
Member
But they do need to be pulled from the knuckle?
Yup
Remove wheel and tire assembly
Remove brake caliper and wire it aside.
Remove brake rotor and tie rod end.
Remove stabilizer bar link nut, then remove link from strut.
Remove lower control arm to steering knuckle pinch nut and bolt, then slightly spread joint and remove lower control arm.
Using suitable hub remover/installer, press axle from hub. Wire axle shaft to body to maintain level position.
Remove strut to steering knuckle pinch bolt, then spread joint slightly and remove steering knuckle and hub assembly.
Remove strut attaching nuts, then remove strut assembly from vehicle.
Remove wheel and tire assembly
Remove brake caliper and wire it aside.
Remove brake rotor and tie rod end.
Remove stabilizer bar link nut, then remove link from strut.
Remove lower control arm to steering knuckle pinch nut and bolt, then slightly spread joint and remove lower control arm.
Using suitable hub remover/installer, press axle from hub. Wire axle shaft to body to maintain level position.
Remove strut to steering knuckle pinch bolt, then spread joint slightly and remove steering knuckle and hub assembly.
Remove strut attaching nuts, then remove strut assembly from vehicle.
luigisho
SHO Member
I don't remove them from the knuckle. I use a floor jack with a piece of 2x4 wedged up under the spring perch an lift it a little if I need some extra clearance from the knuckle. Make sure the nuts at the top of the strut tower are still holding it to the body. This isn't 100% safe but if you are careful it works to get that extra 1" to clear the knuckle without prying down too far on the outer end of the axle.
http://www.wikisho.com/wiki/Strut_Replacement
http://www.wikisho.com/wiki/Strut_Replacement
93VantuckySHO
Member
Holy crap I went at it from 11pm to 1030am today. I finished the passenger front and driver rear. The driver front is 50% done except the bolt holding the Lca to the front IS STUCK!!! The nut came off fine but the bolt just spins. In about 4 hours I was able to get about an inch out. I have tried damn near every trick. Even welding the nut. Going to try a hub-ball joint remover from harbor freight...
All the new parts look really nice on there though. Going to finish tonight cant wait to drive it without blown struts. I was sure to take some pictures I will post up when I am done. Also both axles came right out I very happy to see this. Thanks guys
All the new parts look really nice on there though. Going to finish tonight cant wait to drive it without blown struts. I was sure to take some pictures I will post up when I am done. Also both axles came right out I very happy to see this. Thanks guys
luigisho
SHO Member
try an impact wrench?
93VantuckySHO
Member
The bolt is rusted to the bushing sleve and the bushing has let go of the sleve. The bolt turns but wont go anywhere. I can get it about an inch out. I ended up leaving that lca on, going to let a shop deal with it.
I was on the last corner just about to finish and I broke the bolt on the passenger rear control arm closest to the back bumper. Damn it. Are these hard to get out? I wanted to be done so bad im at 20 hours on this job.
I was on the last corner just about to finish and I broke the bolt on the passenger rear control arm closest to the back bumper. Damn it. Are these hard to get out? I wanted to be done so bad im at 20 hours on this job.
luigisho
SHO Member
Is some of it exposed to get a bite on it? I think I drilled a few out and used easy outs and torches with different results each time.
You are discovering what I had to deal with 2 northern climate SHO's. Salt + time is a pain in the rear to deal with. Especially the undercarriage.
I would advise DIY folks in the rust belt to consider suspension fasteners as maintenance items if you buy used or hold onto cars for chunks of time. Spent weeks wrestling with suspension overhauls with rusted junk. If you have the $ farm it out. If not, you can always try and drill it out and find an appropriate replacement fastener with a nut on the back end if you damage the threads.
You are discovering what I had to deal with 2 northern climate SHO's. Salt + time is a pain in the rear to deal with. Especially the undercarriage.
I would advise DIY folks in the rust belt to consider suspension fasteners as maintenance items if you buy used or hold onto cars for chunks of time. Spent weeks wrestling with suspension overhauls with rusted junk. If you have the $ farm it out. If not, you can always try and drill it out and find an appropriate replacement fastener with a nut on the back end if you damage the threads.
I broke both rear pinch bolts on my 94 so I drilled one out and that was a pain so I took the knuckle and strut assembly off a junk yard car and soaked the knuckle in a bucket of used motor oil for 2 days and the bolt came right out.
93VantuckySHO
Member
It was cake, I was way over estimating after what I went through with the front lca bolt. This is a 99.9% rust free car from WA state, they dont salt here. It would have been so nice to farm the whole job out. I got the broken rear bolt out using PB and a tie rod end remover. I pressed the bushing off the sleve, then used vice grips to break the sleve from the bolt. After that a few good whacks with a rubber mallet and the bolt slid right out. $8 later for bolt, nut, and washer and I was back on the road 
I think the biggest pain was 136k miles of road crap built up on everything. In the future Ill be sure (and recommend) pressure washing everything. The particulate turns to sludge and the PB mixes with it and binds the **** out of the fasteners.
Alls good for now, thanks for all the input! New place doesnt have internet, pics will come soon.
I think the biggest pain was 136k miles of road crap built up on everything. In the future Ill be sure (and recommend) pressure washing everything. The particulate turns to sludge and the PB mixes with it and binds the **** out of the fasteners.
Alls good for now, thanks for all the input! New place doesnt have internet, pics will come soon.
Similar threads
