Still Clunking after Strut Rod Repair

[danohall]

Ok Guy's,

Replaced the lower control arms and strut rods with new and also installed the Moog K8737 problem solvers to try and get rid of my clunking. It's still there!!!!

I'm about ready to shoot myself.

The clunk is mostly from the passenger side and happens on speed bumps and other occasional road bumps. Doesn't do it all the time though is the funny thing.

I've had two separate shops do a front end inspection and they can't find anything loose. There's only so much I can do laying on my back on the garage floor.

I'm open for any suggestions!!!!

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Do you get any clunking during steering?

 

[danohall]

Re: Clunking

I used to get a pop in the steering wheel when turning the wheel to the left but it disappeared as quick as it showed up. This was a few months ago and it would show up randomly/for no reason but I haven't had it happen lately.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

I am think it could be the axle but you would get the popping sound wile turning.

 

[LeddZepp8687]

Strut mount or bearing would be my guess?

Like matt said it could also be the axle but those usually Pop alot more frequently and without a torn boot they usually dont fail and any shop that does a front end check looks for that.

****, whats the history of the subframe bushings? I battled a clunking sound on a Dodge Intrepid at work that turned out to be the subframe bushings. One of the fronts had a tear in it and during certain conditions it would barley bump the "frame"/Body thus resulting in a loud audible clunk.

 

[danohall]

Re: Clunking

Struts are perhaps a year old and I even changed out the strut mounts a couple of months ago just in case.

CV shafts are about 6 months old.

At this point the subframe bushings are probably the only thing on the front end I haven't changed in the past year or so besides the tie rods/steering rack. Externally the SFB's all look good but ya never know.

 

[LeddZepp8687]

Id swap them out anyhow. Like you said, its basically the only thing left to change. If its not that then I havent got any idea what it would be.

 

[SHObill]

Swaybar End Links?

 

[itwonder]

Long shot but might try raising that side with a floor jack and dropping it to see if it will clunk in the garage. Were the rubber strut bumpers OK when you installed new struts? Maybe rear subframe bolts loose after installation of recall?

 

[danohall]

Re: Clunking

The endlinks are the Moog steel ones. I did check the torque on the subframe bolts and they were all good.

The only thing I can remotely think may be causing this is it seems the inner CV bearing seems to have a fair amount of play in them....although I don't know what is considered normal as I don't have another SHO to compare this to. They are new Cardone CV shafts.

I'll take another look around tomorrow and quadruple check everything again. Thanks everybody for the input so far.

 

[Wavemagnet]

Just had strut rod 'receivers' welded in place. A couple of pops here and there but better than before. Thought those Moogs parts a little pricey and as you know, no guarantee. Suspension has been inspected by a couple of shops and deemed sound. I think thats as good as it gets with an aging SHO!

 

[tulsa sho]

Did you check the sway bar to frame bushings?

 

[Racer X]

Did you check the sway bar to frame bushings?

Ding!

Also, check where the swaybar sits in the bushings... if it's worn over time, there will be a thin section of bar that will not allow the bar to sit firmly in the bushing, and it will make noise.

Ask me how I know.

 

[danohall]

Clunking Problem Solved

Hey Everybody,

Finally fixed the clunking noise. Turns out it was the hub/knuckle bearing. Replaced the hub/bearing assy with new ones and the noise is now gone.

Just another thing to keep in mind if you have a phantom noise in the front. God knows how much time I spent chasing this!!!!

 

[tracy_s_1993_atx]

I have the same weird clunking noise even after completely rebuilding the entire front suspension including welding strut receivers, installing the newer version of the SFB and changing the motor mounts.

So you just changed the bearings and hub on the front?
Is this all you changed? And the clunking stopped?

I should also ask what is involved in changing the assembly? Can I do this myself?

Thanks,
Michael

 

[danohall]

Re: Still clunking

Hey Tracy & Michael,

Yup, that's all I changed...the parts you have in the pic. After all was said and done I could recommend a couple of things.

The quickest way to check if it may be the bearing would be to take the caliper & rotor off and loosen the CV shaft nut maybe half way. You should then be able to check for any up & down or side to side movement of the hub. My passenger side bearing wasn't totally thrashed but you also couldn't feel anything until you loosened up the CV shaft nut. The play in the bearing was then fairly obvious. Driver side had very minimal play but it was occasionally clunking so I replaced it too.

Definitely need a press. I have a Harbor freight press and it took a little while to jury rig and get the knuckle/hub squared up to press everything out and put back in. I used one of the old bearings as a backer when pressing in the new bearing and then the hub. First time took awhile (and was a "learning" experience) but second one was a piece of cake. If you put in a new bearing/hub assy there should be no side to side movement when everything is pressed back in.

Hope this helps. Give me a yell if you need any more info.

Dan

 

[tracy_s_1993_atx]

Dan,
Thanks for the response...

I guess that you are saying that I have to remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle to be able to press in the new bearing? Just want to make sure I fully understand the process before I try. I am more familiar with RWD vehicles, but I am learning as I go along with this SHO. So I would guess that I need to separate the steering knuckle from the bottom of the strut and from the lower ball joint as well as remove the outer Tie-rod end?

BTW, I perform all my maintenance and repairs with the help of this forum.

Thanks,
Michael

Keeping another SHO on the road!!!

 

[danohall]

Michael,

That's indeed what you need to remove, along with the CV shaft nut. You do have to take the knuckle out of the car to press in new bearings and hub. I found it easier to just drop the strut/knuckle out as a unit rather that try to separate it on the car. Same when I reinstalled it.

I'd recommend changing the hub and bearing assembly with new. A co-worker used to own a SHO and he changed out just the hub bearing and ended up taking it right back apart as the hub was also worn. It's $53, per side, from Rockauto (Timken 520100) so it wasn't that big a deal to me.