SHO vs. SLO LCA have some questions

[1993MTXSHO]

I know the SLO control arm is weaker (read: smaller) then the SHO/Police LCA, but is there really a difference in handling and durability of the SLO arm if I were to run it on my SHO? I plan on auto crossing my car and giving it the beating a SHO is built for, but really need the clearance the SLO arm offers.

Also does anyone know how thick the metal is on a SHO vs. SLO arm on the outside ball joint part that faces the rotor? I have to grind mine as per the baer brake kit instructions but don't like the idea of grinding 2-3mm off the outsides of my LCA. The SLO arm offers more clearance which is why I was thinking of running them vs a ground to **** SHO arm.

I ran 3mm spaces for about 100 miles and that fixed my issues I had, but I do not like having spacers behind my brake rotors as it stressed the studs more, and also doesn't give my brake caliper the movement it should have. I have been fighting this kit for a while now and am getting tired of not being able to drive my car (it's been 3 years) so want to finally do something that I am comfortable with, and hopefully make it to the convention with her this year.

 

[somedude_001]

when I was replacing mine on my turbo car just for ***** me and my buddy at napa pulled 3 different SLO arms and 2 SHO arms (the onec I ordered) and we measured them to be EXACTLY the same. maybe the factory ford ones were different but the napa ones were identical. They were moog.

 

[jon93]

Looking at the pictures on Rockauto I really don't see a difference. Different part numbers but who knows. I mean I am sure Ford upgraded them for a reason but I don't see why they would affect you. People drive the **** out of SLO's too...damn crazy grandma's!! Just think if it breaks..then it can up on the wall hahaha

 

[somedude_001]

Looking at the pictures on Rockauto I really don't see a difference. Different part numbers but who knows. I mean I am sure Ford upgraded them for a reason but I don't see why they would affect you. People drive the **** out of SLO's too...damn crazy grandma's!! Just think if it breaks..then it can up on the wall hahaha

from a manufacturing aspect for a aftermarket parts supplier it does not make sense to use 2 different castings for a stronger arm. maybe just the balljoint is different... or maybe it is the same unit they just milk up for more money who knows.

either way I have never herd of one failing from stress on here or on TCCA

 

[jon93]

Yea I agree somedude 001, you dont have to worry about them breaking, even though anything is possible. I think he just has alot of concern because of the amount of time and money he has into it.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

Well I measured the arms that came off of the car this kit was on (those arms were trashed from use so no I cannot use them) and they were MUCH smaller. They measured .8" wide where it bolts to the subframe, and the ones on my 93 now measure 1", they measured about .6 in the middle somewhere where as the ones on my 93 were .8", and the ball joint end on the SLO was .9" where as the one on my 93 was 1"

I am looking more for concrete evidence then speculation because as jon93 said I have a lot of time and effort into this car, and to have it end up in a wall because of something stupid I did would really not be a good day for me.

 

[firebat45]

I know you don't want speculation, but I just want to add my $0.02. The arms are engineered to take crashes/curbs/potholes as well as they can. Any sudden movement like that is a ton more stress than driving, or autocrossing. I'd feel perfectly comfortable with the SLO arms, with any kind of driving.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

regular slo arms yes, but I have to GRIND AWAY some material from the arm, and I have no idea how thick the walls are or how much it would take before it broke the ball joint right out of the arm.

 

[rudedog]

You couldn't space out the rotor from behind(between the wheel mounting ****** and the rotor hat), and the caliper bracket?? Sounds a little safer than grinding the ball joint. If you're that concerned with putting regular Taurus parts on your Taurus. Also of all the genI/II lower arms I've replaced, I've never noticed any difference. I like the MOOG problemsolver line personally.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

You couldn't space out the rotor from behind(between the wheel mounting ****** and the rotor hat), and the caliper bracket?? Sounds a little safer than grinding the ball joint. If you're that concerned with putting regular Taurus parts on your Taurus. Also of all the genI/II lower arms I've replaced, I've never noticed any difference. I like the MOOG problemsolver line personally.

The SHO is not a "taurus" IMO it's a high performance version made to take a beating and probably had those parts on it for a reason which is why I was worried. I know I wouldn't put a 6 cylinder mustang suspension part on a gt500. Also as I said in my first post I had a spacer behind my rotor already and I do not like the fact that it stresses the studs more, and I also don't want my wheels sticking out that far as they already stick out far enough. Also by doing that it doesn't give the caliper the movement it should have, as it smashes it almost completely toward the outside edge. I don't know what arm was on the car this kit came from but it is certainly different then the SHO arms I have.

I think I am going to go and see if I can find some different offset hats and use them. This will solve my problems and then I won't have to worry about anything apart from the caliper bolts being a little more stressed. But I would rather my caliper snap off then have my LCA fall apart on me.