shifter cable question

[Bruce M]

1990 SHO MTX:

Just did the clutch on this car and I’m getting everything back together now. Everyone knows that these cars have two cables; one that lifts the shifter linkage up and down and another that that moves the linkage in and out (push pull). When I was taking things apart I noticed that the in and out cable was just sitting on the stud on the linkage, very loose with no holding clip. The end of the cable that attaches to the linkage looks like it should have had some kind of bearing, clip or spacer inside the nylon hole. If you look at the push pull cable it has a spoon like shaped at the end that goes on to the linkage. The linkage has a stud about .300” in dia and about an inch high. It’s conical on the top and there is a slot machined in the very end that looks like it is there to hold some type of retaining clip. My cable was just sitting over this stud and because the nylon hole on that end of the cable is about .400” in dia, there is a lot of slop. It was shifting like that before I shut things down and replaced the clutch. I can’t get a good view of this in any manual that I have so I’m not sure what mechanism is used to attach the push pull cable to the transmission linkage.

Can someone explain to me how that comes from Ford or direct me to an illustration or some document.

Thanks!

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

too bad you're so far away i'd give you this extra rod shifter i got.

 

[Lorenr]

Get the rod shifter

Get that rod shifter. You'll never regret it.

They are better, much less complicated and much easier to maintain.

:thankyou:

 

[shonuffmine]

The proper term is banjo fittings, do a quick search for shifter cables and the fixes are explained. The ends just press on and soften over time

 

[sperold]

I have 3 SHO's (89, 90, 95) and I by far, like the cable shifter the best. The 90 has new cables and it shifts with less effort and less hunting than the 95 rod shifter. It may be that my 95 is not set up perfectly, but I'll bet the 90 cable shifter isn't set up perfect either. Fix the cable shifter ends and trust me, the shifter mechanism is not your biggest problem with this setup. That compact tranny is hard to shift no matter what you have running it.

 

[RonPorter]

I agree on the cable shifter. I had one one my '89 for 100K miles before I put in the rod shifter, and there were plusses and minuses to it. Can't say it was better.

Anyway, at this point, folks should keep the cable shifter if you are gonna keep your car. Original condition SHOs will bring the most $$$ in the future, and that includes the cable shifter on most Gen 1s.

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

I agree on the cable shifter. I had one one my '89 for 100K miles before I put in the rod shifter, and there were plusses and minuses to it. Can't say it was better.

Anyway, at this point, folks should keep the cable shifter if you are gonna keep your car. Original condition SHOs will bring the most $$$ in the future, and that includes the cable shifter on most Gen 1s.

*shrugs* both the SHO's i bought (my green 91 and the black 89 that got parted and gutted back in june) had rod shifters. i have one i scored from a junk yard i am friendly with for very little (told em i needed it for the tubing, had a welding project wink wink nudge nudge)

i have never driven a cable shifted SHO. i like the rod shifter in my 91, especially after helicoiling the big bolt.

 

[shobote]

Easy fix; the plastic ball socket is broken off from the cable end, so do a search for mopar clip, as I had posted the part number for another thread a couple months ago. THis repairs the one on the shifter side; a zip tie will hold it in place on the trans side if that socket is also broken off. Mine has been working fine with both fixes for about 6 years. Plusses are the cable weighs 15 lbs less than a rod shifter, will not transmit vibrations from the drivetrain, and does not need the bent resonator exhaust piece.

 

[SHObill]

Chrysler clip part# is 04340118 - cable shifter fix -
I used this last year but had to mod/bend it a bit to fit proper. My stock plastic ball socket had cracked & had looseness. It worked for a while & then the plastic ball socket broke up more. I actually used a valve cover grommet cut down to fit the internal ring on cable end & then used what was left of cap of stock plastic ball socket & then reused the chrysler clip & all is great now. No slop! I also had to make up new bushings for the tranny side=used a rubber hose the right ID/OD for the post & again all is tight.