batchman
SHO Member
Does anyone know if there are bushings or other such to wear out in a rod shifter?
My 93 MTX is getting a little sloppy...
Thanks,
- Jeff
My 93 MTX is getting a little sloppy...
Thanks,
- Jeff
Rod Shifter Q
- Thread starter batchman
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
olympic
SHO Member
Yep, there's a bushing where the shifter pivots and one where the shifter connects to the rod. I believe replacements are available, maybe from SHOnut??
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
Funny you should ask. I just replaced the bushings at the transmission end of the linkage yesterday. After driving another MTX SHO that had far fewer miles on it, I realized how loose my shifter linkage really had become.
There are two pivot pins at the forward end of the shift rod that basically function like a universal joint. The rubber portions of both of these pivots had degraded and allowed significant side-to-side shifter slop. I also heard metal-to-metal noises since the rubber was gone from the linkage on the shifter side of the two (on the right in the photo). A photo of the repaired linkage is shown below.
There is a 10mm nut and bolt that holds the linkage to the transmission shift stub (far left in photo). Remove the bolt and its clasps and slide the shifter arm rearward to let the shift rod fall free at the transmission end. I had to grind off the toe end of the rear pivot pin (where the nut is at far right) to remove the pin. With this pin removed the linkage joint could be removed from under the car. This was easier that also unbolting the shifter box portion and taking out the entire shifter and its rods. You may choose to do that instead.
There is a rubber (could be replaced with nylon for firmer and more durable use) bushing on each side of the 3/8" diameter pivot pin (at the far right in the photo) to dampen noise. I didn't have the exact bushings, so I used a section of nylon tubing of the correct inside and outside diameters that required it to be firmly pressed into place. I also replaced the 3/8" pin with a 3/8" x 2-1/2" long hex head bolt with a smooth barrel and stainless steel nylon lock nut (at far right in photo) to allow easy removal should this joint require service again. I had to drill the toe end of the outer coupling with a 3/8" drill bit to allow the 3/8" bolt to pass through.
The forward pivot (larger diameter joint in the center of the photo) has a softer rubber bushing that is really more like a short section of rubber hose. It too, had softened considerably. I added two 1/2" ID nylon flat washers (from Home Depot) to each end of the pivot pin to limit the twisting play in this joint. The washers appear as the white shims that fill the gaps at the top and bottom of this joint. I had to cut a 1/4" chamfered channel through the washers to allow them to be pressed onto the joint's shaft since this pivot pin is also riveted in place.
After the rework of the joints, the shifter feels MUCH firmer. In fact, I'm having to relearn the shifter's "H" pattern because the side to side motion of the shifter is so much less pronounced. It feels really good again. Let's see, where do I need to go today?
...Oh yeah, to the Yamaha store to order the valve shims thicker than 2.700mm.
Scott
[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 01-16-2002).]
<small>[ December 17, 2003, 02:28 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
There are two pivot pins at the forward end of the shift rod that basically function like a universal joint. The rubber portions of both of these pivots had degraded and allowed significant side-to-side shifter slop. I also heard metal-to-metal noises since the rubber was gone from the linkage on the shifter side of the two (on the right in the photo). A photo of the repaired linkage is shown below.
There is a 10mm nut and bolt that holds the linkage to the transmission shift stub (far left in photo). Remove the bolt and its clasps and slide the shifter arm rearward to let the shift rod fall free at the transmission end. I had to grind off the toe end of the rear pivot pin (where the nut is at far right) to remove the pin. With this pin removed the linkage joint could be removed from under the car. This was easier that also unbolting the shifter box portion and taking out the entire shifter and its rods. You may choose to do that instead.
There is a rubber (could be replaced with nylon for firmer and more durable use) bushing on each side of the 3/8" diameter pivot pin (at the far right in the photo) to dampen noise. I didn't have the exact bushings, so I used a section of nylon tubing of the correct inside and outside diameters that required it to be firmly pressed into place. I also replaced the 3/8" pin with a 3/8" x 2-1/2" long hex head bolt with a smooth barrel and stainless steel nylon lock nut (at far right in photo) to allow easy removal should this joint require service again. I had to drill the toe end of the outer coupling with a 3/8" drill bit to allow the 3/8" bolt to pass through.
The forward pivot (larger diameter joint in the center of the photo) has a softer rubber bushing that is really more like a short section of rubber hose. It too, had softened considerably. I added two 1/2" ID nylon flat washers (from Home Depot) to each end of the pivot pin to limit the twisting play in this joint. The washers appear as the white shims that fill the gaps at the top and bottom of this joint. I had to cut a 1/4" chamfered channel through the washers to allow them to be pressed onto the joint's shaft since this pivot pin is also riveted in place.
After the rework of the joints, the shifter feels MUCH firmer. In fact, I'm having to relearn the shifter's "H" pattern because the side to side motion of the shifter is so much less pronounced. It feels really good again. Let's see, where do I need to go today?
...Oh yeah, to the Yamaha store to order the valve shims thicker than 2.700mm.
Scott
[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 01-16-2002).]
<small>[ December 17, 2003, 02:28 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
batchman
SHO Member
Way cool!
Scott, I hadn't realized just how sloppy mine had gotten, until I missed a shift (don't tell the wife!). Then it dawned on me that 100k ago, this thing was tight.
Thanks for the info, I'm off to peruse ShoNut's page and/or the hardware store!
Thanks again,
- Jeff
Scott, I hadn't realized just how sloppy mine had gotten, until I missed a shift (don't tell the wife!). Then it dawned on me that 100k ago, this thing was tight.
Thanks for the info, I'm off to peruse ShoNut's page and/or the hardware store!
Thanks again,
- Jeff
philw349
PhilW
Question: Does this get replaced during a clutch job?
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
Not only no....
The 10mm nut and bolt are removed to allow the linkage to slide off the transmission stem, but I'm sure they don't touch any other part of the shift linkage. They certainly don't replace it since it is fixed part of the shifter linkages.
The linkage in the picture is not designed to be serivceable. Both of the pins are fitted like rivets and the smaller "toe" end of the pin must be ground or drilled off to get the pin out. That is why I replaced the one on the right with a smooth barreled bolt and lock nut with nylon insert.
The joint on the right of the photo was the one that was allowing metal to metal contact and a rattling sound at certain revs. One of the two rubber bushings had lost the portion that fit inside the bore of the square block. This was also the worn bushing that caused the greatest play in the shifter handle.
Scott
The 10mm nut and bolt are removed to allow the linkage to slide off the transmission stem, but I'm sure they don't touch any other part of the shift linkage. They certainly don't replace it since it is fixed part of the shifter linkages.
The linkage in the picture is not designed to be serivceable. Both of the pins are fitted like rivets and the smaller "toe" end of the pin must be ground or drilled off to get the pin out. That is why I replaced the one on the right with a smooth barreled bolt and lock nut with nylon insert.
The joint on the right of the photo was the one that was allowing metal to metal contact and a rattling sound at certain revs. One of the two rubber bushings had lost the portion that fit inside the bore of the square block. This was also the worn bushing that caused the greatest play in the shifter handle.
Scott
philw349
PhilW
um ok, I think that answers it.
[This message has been edited by philw349 (edited 01-18-2002).]
[This message has been edited by philw349 (edited 01-18-2002).]
Zap
SHO Member
Well... this sounds like what I may need to be doing if I end up with the SHO I'm looking at. Would this problem also cause difficulty shifting after the car has been driven for a few hours or so?
~Zap
~Zap
Yes another question would be would this problem make for some bad shifting ie. grinding-not going into gear ?
------------------
Ryan
SHOcago Enthusiasts Club President
SHOcago Web site
http://www.SHOcago.com
SHOcago SHOforum.com Board
http://www.SHOforum.com/SHOcago
'94 Opal Frost MTX "Shoman 4"
'91+ Deep Jewel Green Build Date 6/91 with rod shifter
AIM "Shoman594"
To Join SHOCAGO Enthusiast Club, Please Email me
E-Mail mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
[This message has been edited by Shoman594 (edited 01-18-2002).]
------------------
Ryan
SHOcago Enthusiasts Club President
SHOcago Web site
http://www.SHOcago.com
SHOcago SHOforum.com Board
http://www.SHOforum.com/SHOcago
'94 Opal Frost MTX "Shoman 4"
'91+ Deep Jewel Green Build Date 6/91 with rod shifter
AIM "Shoman594"
To Join SHOCAGO Enthusiast Club, Please Email me
E-Mail mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
[This message has been edited by Shoman594 (edited 01-18-2002).]
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
The problems that both of you referred to are caused by either the clutch not completely disengaging, or the synchronizers being worn out or a combination of both. The worn shifter linkage bushings only result in a lot of play in the shifter handle and poorly defined shift gates.
Scott
Scott
ckinart
New Member
i have a rattle in my shifter as well, and have developed a slight rattle in the past month or so... i read the above info on replacing the bushings in the joints at the transmission end of the shifter linkage rod, and hoped that was my problem... however, i had a look under my car last nite, and found that my slop is coming from the back end of the bar, where it enters a "black box" at the base of the shifter... is there a way to replace these bushings as well, or am i looking at replacing the "black box"... i think they're a little pricey... :<
anybody have any input?
------------------
ck
94 MTX, 100k
Stock
anybody have any input?
------------------
ck
94 MTX, 100k
Stock
Similar threads
