Rod nut stuck...what's going on? How?

[TYSHO]

So, my SHO has been on jackstands for coming up on 2 weeks and the other with a bad starter and hole in the tranny.

Problem: After finishing the first front four bearing sets, I go to loosen the nut on the next cylinder and it spins and spins. So, I skipped it and moved on to the last cylinder and everything goes good. I go to put it back together and when tightning the nut on, it pops back like an oil bottle cap. So, I tried to back out and the same crap happens...spin spin spin. I even tried backing out with the 1/2" impact and it didn't help. headbang

Any solutions, reasonings, or anything that can explain why it's popping back like an oil bottle cap? Is there anything I can do to fix this with out going into major labor?

Thanks!

OBTW, cylinders 4 & 5 had copper ALL around and the others had copper on both bottoms and tops. Gotta' wait and see what 6 is holding for me as it wasn't even tightned all the way when I tried to loosen it and came up on the first stuck nut.

137k on an ol' green 93 ATX awaiting to blow.

<small>[ November 27, 2003, 11:53 PM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[CheckerSHO]

How bad was it knocking? my 93 was knocking pretty bad and when i went to take the rod bearing out closest to the trans, the cap was already loose and the studs had been knocked loose from the knocking around. My bearings also got progressively worse shape as i went from the front of the motor to the back. see my "spun bearing" thread if this sounds like what yours did

 

[Off Road SHO]

Well, That doesn't sound good at all. Might have to get a dremel tool with lots of cut-off wheels and go to town on it. But that is definitely a last resort type of action.

The rod bolt and nut are toast anyway so this might be a thing to try. Get a pair of needle nose vise grips. With the rod bolt in question at bottom center of its' stroke grab onto it very tightly with the vise crips.

While pulling down on the vise grips, start to unscrew the nut. It will take a lot of downward force to get the nut past the damaged threads and onto undamaged threads. Be careful because the vise grips will slip off of the nut easily.

If you do end up having to use a dremel or die grinder, stuff water soaked rags everywhere to catch the particles and really flush out the inside with mineral spirits or diesel fuel or kerosene. The grit from the wheel is extremely abrasive.

Good luck.

Tom

 

[SHODWN]

I forgoet it the studs go all the way through or not, but Id just change out the rod if it were me.

 

[TYSHO]

Well if you can pull it down over the bad thread, can you push it over to tighten. shrug Would heat help or just flame things up?

Another thing is that before I started to tighten the other that got stuck, the threads looked good. shrug

Checker SHO, I hardly if I did even hear knocking. I just had the gut feeling to change em'. Two showing copper and black all around and the other three showing copper on tops and bottoms. The two stuck nuts are the two closer to the trans.

<small>[ November 27, 2003, 11:23 PM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[Off Road SHO]

So did the bolt come loose from the rod, or is the nut just spinning on a tight bolt?

Tom

 

[MeShoHorny]

The bolts go straight through, they have splines on them that grip the rod. If the splines are stripped then the bolt will turn when you wrench on the nut.

I would dremel it out as stated above and get a new stud and nut. It shouldn't be too hard of a job, though laying on your back with metal shavings falling in your face is never fun.

I have a few extra bolts and nuts if you need them.

 

[TYSHO]

Well are the 3.0 & 3.2 bolts & nuts the same or differ? If differ, I'm working with the 3.2. So how much for 2 sets?

Tom, it seems as what Jason said is occuring. The threads were fine, but it's spinning still.

Thanks for all the replies guys. wink

BTW can I just place a center punch on the nut and break it off with a hammer (by snapping the bolt) and then punch out the bolt? I don't like the deal of all the shavings on the lower end.

<small>[ November 27, 2003, 11:33 PM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[SHODWN]

why would you drill out and insert a new stud? It would be much eaiser just changeing the rod. and alot safer.

 

[MeShoHorny]

Either way he has to get the rod cap off the crank. There is no way it is easier to replace the rod--you would have to pull the piston/rod down so the rod can be changed. There is not enough clearance to get the rod past the crank shrug

Though Kirk makes a good point that the rod might be toast due to the fact that the rod bolt hole might have elongated.

I have some rod bolts and nuts I would send you for the cost of shipping.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Okay, here the deal. You can't take a piston out the bottom, period. To put a new rod on a piston, you must have it out of the engine, so that you can remove the wrist pin that connects the rod to the piston. The heads must come off to remove the pistons and that is a lot of work.

DO NOT HAMMER on anything that is near or could possibly touch your crank or rods. If you don't like the idea of using a dremel tool, you might be able to find what is called a nut splitter small enough yet strong enough to split the rod nuts.

You might also try to keep the defective rod bolt from turning by using vise grips or a screwdriver tip wedged in against the rod bolt head.

Good luck.

Tom

 

[MeShoHorny]

A nut cracker as saved me time and grief on more then one occasion. You can get onc at Sears, P/N: 00904772000

I can't confirm that you will have enough room to get it in and bust a nut wink , but for the money (14 bucks or so) it is a good tool to have in your box.
Here is a pic:

 

[TYSHO]

Thanks guys! If I run into any problems or have any questions on the process, I'll be sure to post it. I'm going to see if I can get it in and bust a nut.