Resurface Rotors?

[N3FOL]

I am about to replace my front pads with PFCM pads tomorrow. I would like to know whether it is really important to have the rotors resurfaced everytime we install brand new brake pads. (I am not sure if the term "Resurfaced" is the correct word or not)

 

[Mr Anonymous]

I'm of the opinion that turning/machining/resurfacing (whatever you want to call it) rotors is a waste of $$$. Most places around me charge ~$12-15 per rotor for machining. For another ~$15/each, you can buy brand new rotors with a warranty from most auto parts stores. With new pads & rotors done at the same time (and proper torquing of the wheels), you can reasonably expect not to have to worry about your brakes for the next year or two and 20K+ miles depending on your driving style. With winter coming, I think it's cheap insurance to know that you've got good brakes under you.

Of course, if your rotors are realtively smooth and not deeply scored or warped, you could forego doing anything to them and still expect a decent lifespan from them. Rotors with a less than perfect surface will tend to wear out your pads faster and be more prone to squealing.

 

[shojuan]

If your rotors aren't warped and if they're giving great performance but it's just that the pads are worn down, just replace the pads. If you're not happy with the braking and a resurface would be indicated, it is better to replace these rotors than resurface. The Gen 1 rotors esp won't hold their temper during a resurface IMHO.

Rick

 

[N3FOL]

Thanks for all the advise. I contacted my local Autozone store here in PA. and a new rotor would cost $29.95 each. Sounds like a good deal. As for my old rotors, they are not warped (knock on wood). Looks like it can go for another 100K. My driving habits tend to be not too aggressive on the brakes. These are my second pair of front pads and I have a total of 106K on the 95 SHO. I will have to look around and find out how much it is to resurface rotors. At the present time, I can just put in new pads and not worry about it for awhile. I will have to decide on that for the next 8 hours or so, because tomorrow is the big day for brakes.

 

[Slo-Sho]

I would never just "pad slap" my SHO. At the very least, get some emery cloth and roughen up the surface of the rotor. Otherwise the pads will take longer to "bed in".

 

[SHOZ123]

In over 500k miles of driving with disc brakes I have not ever had to resurfaced the rotors. If you want to bed in new pads, drive 100 miles then 3 quick stops from 60 mph will do the trick.

<small>[ October 04, 2002, 08:52 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>

 

[pjtoledo]

N3FOL:
I am about to replace my front pads with PFCM pads tomorrow. I would like to know whether it is really important to have the rotors resurfaced everytime we install brand new brake pads. (I am not sure if the term "Resurfaced" is the correct word or not)

If the rotors are not warped, I put a course disk in the rotary grinder/sander, spin the rotor and put the neat swirl marks on both sides of the rotor. Knocks off the hi spots, and removes most of the wear pattern from the previous rotor. Does not take much metal off. I always hit the edge and remove the small outer band of rust.

Perry Toledo,Ohio

 

[N3FOL]

I have a lot to think about now. Emery cloth sounds like a good economical approach. Stopping from 60 mph 3x is not a bad idea either. As for the rotary grinder, I do not have one. There is one thing that bothers me though...the outer band of rust might not come off with just the emery cloth. If the cloth doesn't give satisfactory results, I will have to resort to resurface my two front rotors. I had contacted a local shop and they can resurface the rotors for $20.00/pair.

 

[olympic]

I run a fleet of taxi's and I never replace the rotors unless they're gouged up, warped or visibly worn. If they are damaged, I just buy new ones. Resurfacing them is just a waste of money since they usually warp shortly afterwards.

I just scuff up the surface with 100 grit emery cloth and install new pads. The outer ring of rust doesn't matter since the pads don't come in contact with it. Usually my cars will go through 3 sets of pads before the rotor becomes visibly worn and need replacing.

 

[yamahaSHO]

N3FOL:
I am about to replace my front pads with PFCM pads tomorrow. I would like to know whether it is really important to have the rotors resurfaced everytime we install brand new brake pads. (I am not sure if the term "Resurfaced" is the correct word or not)

If you are going to use the same rotors then you should ALWAYS turn the rotors before putting new brake pads. The reason being is that your old pads wore grooves into the rotors, and you new pads will not fit in the exact grooves. This can cause one pad to get better or worse grip than another and can cause uneven braking.

 

[N3FOL]

I had taken off my caliper at this time as we speak. I just cannot take off the rotor since I do not have the correct deep socket to remove the bolt holding the rotor.

What is the correct size deep socket to remove the rotor? I will have to run to the nearest autoshop and purchase the socket individually. Hope to hear from you guys soon.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

There isn't a bolt holding on the rotor -- it's a 'floating' type. You do have to remove the caliper brackets (two 15mm bolts hold the bracket to the knuckle from behind). If the rotor doesn't come free with some wiggling, give it a few taps with a rubber mallet.

 

[N3FOL]

Again thanks for all the input. YamahaSHO and ShOOO are right...no bolts to take off on the rotors just two washers on the lug nuts. I almost took off the center bolt, thank God I didn't.

Anyway, I was able to inspect my pads on the front and they all look pretty thick. They do not need to be replaced at this time. As for the condition of the rotors...no bad grooves or anything that showed bad wear. The rear pads and rotors are likewise in good shape. Come Spring or Summer, I will have to check them again.

I had a ball taking off the caliper from the rotor and taking off the pads as well. I thought that mechanics can only do this thing, but I was wrong. I now feel confident that the next time I inspect my pads and rotors...it will be all a breeze. As for my consolation prize...peace of mind that pads and rotors are in good shape. And for my PFCM pads, they will have to sit in the garage until next year. At least they have a lifetime warranty from Autozone anyway. wink

 

[SHOZ123]

I have never turned my rotors when I get new pads. Your new pads will wear to the rotor very quickly.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

olympic:
I run a fleet of taxi's and I never replace the rotors unless they're gouged up, warped or visibly worn. If they are damaged, I just buy new ones. Resurfacing them is just a waste of money since they usually warp shortly afterwards.

I just scuff up the surface with 100 grit emery cloth and install new pads. The outer ring of rust doesn't matter since the pads don't come in contact with it. Usually my cars will go through 3 sets of pads before the rotor becomes visibly worn and need replacing.

Why put brakes on a taxi? I don't think taxi drivers know they have em

 

[snowwind1990]

Over these many years, the only really bad OEM performance in brakes has been that of the calipers..my bad! .they should have been periodically removed and lubed for long wear.
The OEM rotors are excellent and can be turned. The outer rust edge is always there....The OEM pads have very little dust after the first 100 mile break in. I have only had one warped rotor in over 300K and it was due to failing caliper, the left rear. Only 3 sets of OEM pads, 1 rotor is original, the left front, the caliper is original there too.
Ma Ma M

 

[sdpatt]

Marlene,

I must drive my SHO a little harder than you push Snowwind. I am on my 7th set of Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads following 2 sets of the expensive and not necessarily high performance OEM pads. I have three sets of rotors that I put in service and have resurfaced (for $6 at O'Reilly Auto Parts) when they are finished with their turn on the hub. I'll bet I have been through at least 6 or 7 different sets of front rotors. Some were expensive, "performance" rotors that didn't last very long before warping and cracking from the heat stress. The "cheapie" $18 AIMCO rotors from AutoZone has lasted longer and warped and cracked less than the expensive ones. Even than the OEM rotors.

The rears are only on their second set of rotors and third set of pads. I had to replace the rotors because the originals had worn so deeply that they were less than the minimum thickness to be reused after turning.

 

[Jr's Sho]

Thanks for backing me up Scott, $20 pads from Autozone are no worse than $50 high-performance pads. And they have a lifetime replacement!

 

[Toolman]

Randy, I am not sure that was what Scott was referring to. Pay the extra for PF at least. There is an amazing difference in threshold braking for the PFCM vs some cheap Albany's. A difference you don't want to find out on a 160 degree 30mph turn after a 100mph straight!

 

[SHOZ123]

When you get paads form Ford make sure they are Ford pads and not Motorcraft. Ford pads on the Gen3s are hard to beat.