Replacing rear strut mounts.

[SHOstuff]

How easy is it to change the strut mounts and what are the procedures? Also if anyone has pics on this procedure, could you post them on here? Thanks.

 

[jon93]

Be more specific in your question. Are the struts on or off the car? You are in Texes so hopefully your car is rust free. I would say you are going to need to put in about a days worth of work your first time. Roughly two hours a corner.

 

[SHOstuff]

This is something I haven't started yet. I'm asking because it's going to be one of the next projects. I'm mechanically inclined so I'm not a total novice.

 

[SHOstuff]

Where can I purchase these mounts at and procedure steps are highly welcomed.

 

[luigisho]

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...e=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=110

 

[doclees]

See my other post...but that pinch bolt is sure easy to snap.

 

[LeddZepp8687]

Beware of that pinch bolt or you'll spend hours drilling and tapping....

Seriously, If you don't already have a mapp gas torch now is the time to invest in one. Make sure that thing is HOT and use lots of penetrating oil. loosening and then re-tightening the bolt will save you. I broke one, once... Its a once only type of mistake.

 

[jmpSHO2nd]

He lives in TX I doubt he will need a torch to remove the pinch bolts.

 

[SHOstuff]

Is it best to enter the trunk or back seat? I am mechanically inclined but i'm not a pro lol.

 

[luigisho]

Unless you have air tools, I would loosen the top nut on the strut in the car to help hold it in place. Don't remove it but break it free a little to make removing it fron the mount easier when it's out of the car. If you have the correct size ratcheting wrenches that makes short work of the 3 strut mount nuts at the strut tower. You can probably do it from the trunk but you may get better angles to work by removing the seat and rear shelf.

 

[doclees]

OK just got though with this project myself. I'll give you my read on this task. This is on a 89. As far as I can tell this was the first time changing struts on this car with 155k on it. So with this car the pinch bolts were rusted and the spindle bushing bolts were rusted. If you car has this potential for rust I suggest the following- Have someone else do it! Because this is what can happen:
1. Pinch bolts rust not at the threaded ends but in the middle and the near unthreaded end.
2. Even with lots of PB blaster the rust doesn't break free and gets bound in the nonthreaded end suddenly binding a free moving bolt causing you to snap the head off..twice.
3. Now you need to drill out the bolt but it is not easy to get at and not soft. Not a problem if you can remove the swaybar link, brake, strut rod and 2 control arm bushing bolts, drop the strut and spindle as a unit and drill on it for the next 2 hours.
4. But...if you are like me the bushing bolts are rusted too. The forward ones rust in the bushing sleeve and the spindle where the rears only rust in the spindle. If you are willing to **** the forward bushing you can use lots of heat and melt the sleeve out of the rubber bushing. If you don't want to **** the bushing you get out your sawsall and spring compressors, compress the springs and cut the strut in 2 above the brake line mount. The oils smell real bad so use lots of paper towels.
5. Now you have room to move the spindle to free it from the forward bushing.
6. Start drilling. I went though many bits. I like bosch the best. I would not recommend using a Craftsman EZ out style bolt remover. 20 lbs of torque and snap!
7. Now you get out the dremel and grind out the EZ out. 2-3 barrel bits will do. If you didn't set it in too far you can drill in from the threaded side and use a long nail to force it out. Back to drilling.
8. Once you get past the strut body you can remove it. Now you can drill out from the other side. Once you get to the larger bits it may grip the threaded section and spin it out. Both of mine did.
9. Now we can put it back together. Oh wait we need to remove the old rusted nuts from the rusted strut tops. Lots of heat helps. Thank-you Mapp and O2!
10. No time right now to order and replace the spindle bolts along with new bushings. Next month.
If my car was up and running I would have gone to my mechanic and had him change the struts. But then I would not have found a control arm installed backwards along with a backwards bushing. Don't know what kept in on.

 

[VortecGT]

Just start spraying the pinch bolt down and every other suspension part back there everyday for the next month and you should be good! BTW i'm not kidding.

 

[luigisho]

If you have a car that's been in Texas or thereabouts most of its life, you don't have to worry as much about all the extra work with corrosion of fasteners.

 

[shobote]

Unless you have air tools, I would loosen the top nut on the strut in the car to help hold it in place. Don't remove it but break it free a little to make removing it fron the mount easier when it's out of the car. If you have the correct size ratcheting wrenches that makes short work of the 3 strut mount nuts at the strut tower. You can probably do it from the trunk but you may get better angles to work by removing the seat and rear shelf.

Sound advice to heed; the ratcheting wrench is well worth purchasing for this as it saves a lot of time. Mine is also a tX car and no problem with any fasteners, and did not even use any spray.

 

[SHOstuff]

OK just got though with this project myself. I'll give you my read on this task. This is on a 89. As far as I can tell this was the first time changing struts on this car with 155k on it. So with this car the pinch bolts were rusted and the spindle bushing bolts were rusted. If you car has this potential for rust I suggest the following- Have someone else do it! Because this is what can happen:
1. Pinch bolts rust not at the threaded ends but in the middle and the near unthreaded end.
2. Even with lots of PB blaster the rust doesn't break free and gets bound in the nonthreaded end suddenly binding a free moving bolt causing you to snap the head off..twice.
3. Now you need to drill out the bolt but it is not easy to get at and not soft. Not a problem if you can remove the swaybar link, brake, strut rod and 2 control arm bushing bolts, drop the strut and spindle as a unit and drill on it for the next 2 hours.
4. But...if you are like me the bushing bolts are rusted too. The forward ones rust in the bushing sleeve and the spindle where the rears only rust in the spindle. If you are willing to **** the forward bushing you can use lots of heat and melt the sleeve out of the rubber bushing. If you don't want to **** the bushing you get out your sawsall and spring compressors, compress the springs and cut the strut in 2 above the brake line mount. The oils smell real bad so use lots of paper towels.
5. Now you have room to move the spindle to free it from the forward bushing.
6. Start drilling. I went though many bits. I like bosch the best. I would not recommend using a Craftsman EZ out style bolt remover. 20 lbs of torque and snap!
7. Now you get out the dremel and grind out the EZ out. 2-3 barrel bits will do. If you didn't set it in too far you can drill in from the threaded side and use a long nail to force it out. Back to drilling.
8. Once you get past the strut body you can remove it. Now you can drill out from the other side. Once you get to the larger bits it may grip the threaded section and spin it out. Both of mine did.
9. Now we can put it back together. Oh wait we need to remove the old rusted nuts from the rusted strut tops. Lots of heat helps. Thank-you Mapp and O2!
10. No time right now to order and replace the spindle bolts along with new bushings. Next month.
If my car was up and running I would have gone to my mechanic and had him change the struts. But then I would not have found a control arm installed backwards along with a backwards bushing. Don't know what kept in on.

So did you go thru the trunk or backseat?

 

[luigisho]

Pull the seat and the parcel shelf. It doesn't take much time and gives you the most room to work.

 

[doclees]

through the trunk. It is a pain getting to the outer most nut with the speaker in the way. Can't get a ratchet on it of the socket or box type. Next time will invest in the Craftsman open end ratcheting type.

 

[the4biddendonut]

I used an old crappy box end wrench that I ground down to make it more flat so it would fit into the space between the strut tower nuts and deck lid.

 

[luigisho]

If you come in from the top with the rear shelf removed you can get a socket with extentions on everything and zip those things off. Again, I would get a crows foot on the large nut that holds the strut to the mount while thing is secured in the car to crack it loose.

 

[Rubix]

If you come in from the top with the rear shelf removed you can get a socket with extentions on everything and zip those things off. Again, I would get a crows foot on the large nut that holds the strut to the mount while thing is secured in the car to crack it loose.

I agree, go in through the rear shelf. However, I have dealt with the rear suspension without touching the strut rod nut until the entire assembly is out of the car. I use properly sized open-ended oxygen sensor sockets and spray the nut down a few times beforehand.