Replacing Front Wheel Hubs: Difficult?

[redSHO96]

Heyy guys, I had my car into a shop for brakes and tyres when I purchased it. I brought the car back to this same shop a few weeks ago to have them check out a noise when I braked and it turned out to be the brake pads, not a biggie. However they told me that I should replace my front hubs since they are starting to make a bit of noise and will need replacing in a few thousand miles.

I would prefer to do a job myself or with the help of my father and wanted to know if you guys could tell me about how hard this would be to do. I dont have a lift or anything like that, this would be a driveway-up on jack stands job.

Thanx

EDIT: I read over what was posted on V8SHO.com and its not really clear. I understand there are three bolts that are to be removed, but it also mentions needing to replace a ball joint and front knuckles? If someone could just clear that up for me it would be great.

 

[SHOCRUZR]

Skip the ball joint part. The front knuckles is where the wheel hub bearing is located. If you can purchase a front knuckle it will save you a lot of time installing a wheel hub bearing.

 

[redSHO96]

okay so I should buy front knuckles and the wheel hubs then?

 

[me6894]

ok heres what you need

an axle nut socket (not sure on size)

bigass breaker bar (an impact would work alot better)

bigass hammer


first you gotta bust off the axle nut, this can usually be done on the ground, but i do believe the SHO wheels prohibit this, so youll have to have someone sit in the car with their foot on the brake while you attempt to break it loose

once that is off, you can loosen the 3 bolts that are located on the inside (facing the engine) of the knuckle, attaching the wheel-bearing to it

once those are loose the hub (wheel bearing, different word for same thing) will most likely be stuck/rusted/molded on. this is where the hammer comees in handy. pretty much just beat the **** out of it until you break it loose, then put the new one on and do the steps in reverse

 

[SHOCRUZR]

just buy the wheel hub bearing. (cheaper... should be less than $50. OTOH, the front knuckle will cost you several hundreds of $$$)

axle nut is 30 mm.

I don't remember using a Hammer.

 

[redSHO96]

okay thanx allot guys. doesnt sound like that big a job and i could probably do it all in one day assuming i dont run into any issues.

The reason I was asking is b/c the job estimate was $567 parts & labor, i thought that sounded a bit high and wanted to run it by you guys.

now that I have the cam welding service getting taken care of I wanna line up new things.

 

[3.8Lwagon]

doing the front hubs on a gen3/4 are not a big deal. if you can do your own brakes, the hubs are about as hard.

 

[redSHO96]

yeah, i usually do my own brakes I only had it in a shop b/c i wanted the car checked out since I had just bought it. the lady at the shop just made it out to be a huge deal.

 

[naval-avi8or]

By the book. I replaced mine just a few months back and its not that difficult. Just be carefull with the ball joint boot or you will tear ut and have to replace it as well. Replacing the ball joint with out the ball joint press adapter (speacial for this car) can be done but it's a PAIN IN THE A$$.

Removal

1. Turn ignition switch to the OFF position and place the steering column in the unlock position.

2. Remove front axle wheel hub retainer.

3. Raise vehicle on hoist.

4. Note: Make sure steering column is in the unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.

Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.

5. Using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter T81P-3504-W, remove tie rod end from front wheel knuckle.

6. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to remove the nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Loosen the nut first, then remove nut from stud using the hex hold feature.

For SHO vehicles, remove vinyl cover from upper link stud.

Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front shock absorber (18124).

7. Remove disc brake caliper (2B120) and support with wire to obtain working space. Do not allow disc brake caliper to separate from the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) to prevent contamination of the disc brake guide pin journals. Do not allow disc brake caliper to hang from front brake hose (2078). Remove front disc brake rotor (1125). Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) by pulling it off the lug bolt (1107). If front disc brake rotor is difficult to remove from front wheel knuckle, strike front disc brake rotor sharply between lug bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer.

If front disc brake rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to inboard and outboard rotor/hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller D80L-1013-A or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check front disc brake rotor for lateral runout prior to installation. Refer to «Section 06-00».

Lateral runout must be checked with lug nuts (1012) clamping hat section of front disc brake rotor. Refer to «Section 06-03».

8. Remove anti-lock brake sensor mounting bolt and front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204).

9. Remove and discard lower ball joint nut. Using Ball Joint Remover T96P-3010-A, separate lower ball joint from front suspension lower arm (3078).

10. Using Rotunda Spring Compressor 164-R3571 or equivalent, compress front coil spring (5310) until lower ball joint clears front suspension lower arm.

11. Using Front Hub Remover/Replacer T81P-1104-C, Two Stud Adapter T86P-1104-A1, Metric Hub Remover Adapter T83P-1104-BH and Front Hub Installer T81P-1104-A, press front wheel driveshaft joint (3B414) from wheel hub. Wire front wheel driveshaft joint to body to maintain a level position.


12. Remove and discard three hub and bearing retainer bolts from front wheel knuckle.

13. Note: Wheel hub is not pressed into front wheel knuckle. Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub. Do not strike back of inner bearing race. Use of these methods will damage bearing internal parts.

Note: If bearing carrier is corroded to front wheel knuckle, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to the inboard and outboard wheel hub/knuckle mating surface and allow to soak.

Remove wheel hub from front wheel knuckle.
Installation

1. Note: If wheel hub is damaged or if any end play is detectable, replace wheel hub. End play is not adjustable. If wheel hub is disassembled, the assembly must be replaced.

Remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore for correct seating of new wheel hub.

2. Lightly lubricate mating surfaces of bearing corner and front wheel knuckle.

3. CAUTION: Knuckle bore must be clean enough to allow wheel hub to be completely seated by hand. Do not press or draw wheel hub into place.

Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle. Install three new hub and bearing retaining bolts. Tighten to 83-107 N-m (61-78 lb-ft).

4. Push front wheel driveshaft joint into wheel hub. Hand start front wheel hub retainer.

5. Slowly release Rotunda Spring Compressor 164-R3571 or equivalent while guiding lower ball joint into front suspension lower arm.

6. Install new lower ball joint nut. Tighten to 68-92 N-m (50-67 lb-ft).

7. Install tie rod end into front wheel knuckle. Install new slotted nut and tighten to 47-63 N-m (35-46 lb-ft). If necessary advance nut to install a new cotter pin.

8. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.

Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber. Install stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 N-m (57-75 lb-ft). For SHO vehicles, install stud cover.

9. Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper. Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 N-m (65-87 lb-ft).

10. Install front axle wheel hub retainer. Tighten to 230-275 N-m (170-203 lb-ft).

11. Install wheel and tire. Tighten lug nuts to 115-142 N-m (85-104 lb-ft).

12. Lower vehicle.

13. Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.

 

[redSHO96]

thanks very much for the break down step by step. Im gonna have to be careful with all those cautions!! Im likely to damage the most expensive thing possible.

 

[1995mtxsho]

Just did it on a 99 SLO,
The procedure below is alot easier than the one in the manual(s)!
There is also no real reason to disassemble the tie rod or ball joint.

1. Remove the Wheel.
2. Break loose axel nut and remove (nut on mine was 29mm).
3. Remove caliper/bracket and support it.
4. Remove rotor.
5. Compress CV joints CAREFULLY with a FWD axel puller (P/N: 27037) from autozone, this is to give access to the 3 hub bolts.
6. Use a combo of 3/8ths drive standard length sockets and a 3" and 6" extensions, 3" for the lower 2 hub bolts, 6" for the upper (you will see why).
7. Use a chisel to separate the bearing hub from knuckle, it will be corroded in the knuckle.
8. Use a wire brush to clean the knuckle mating surface (inside the hole).

Reassembly is straight-forward after that. Just remember to torque your bolts!

Took me just over 2 hours taking my time in my work's parking lot to complete.

 

[redSHO96]

that sounds allot easier and straight forward to me lol. thanx guys

 

[me6894]

theres no real reason to compress the CV joint either, you can just knock the old hub off then push hard when you put the new one on

as far as getting to the bolts, you can access them on most cars with a short socket and a few inch extension or so

 

[redSHO96]

i have plenty of tools so Im sure that I can find something or a mix of extensions and such to get to those bolts. Im more worried about all those things Im told to be careful of.

 

[me6894]

theres not really much to be careful of except dont damage the new hub

also, you dont need to chisel off the old hub, you can just beat the **** out of it with a hammer... youre not gonna use it again anyways

 

[naval-avi8or]

theres not really much to be careful of except dont damage the new hub

also, you dont need to chisel off the old hub, you can just beat the **** out of it with a hammer... youre not gonna use it again anyways

I posted the procedure from the book and as we all know there are many short cuts to be had. One of them is there is no need to chisle off the hub or whack it with a hammer it should just seperate on its own or with a slight amount of pressure by hand.

 

[redSHO96]

I posted the procedure from the book and as we all know there are many short cuts to be had. One of them is there is no need to chisle off the hub or whack it with a hammer it should just seperate on its own or with a slight amount of pressure by hand.

I appreciate the exact breakdown of what the book says, I like to keep that on hand as well as people's personal experience.

Im actually going to have the hubs replaced while my car is in getting the cams welded, the guy is gonna charge me very little since the subframe is out of the car. thanks for the info though

 

[SHOZ123]

I use Chris's method of removing the tie rod ends. Loosens the nut then using two big hammers strike both sides of the TRE at the same time. A couple of half hearted blows and the end will come right out.

IIRC I tried once to get to the three bolts holding the hub on. I could only get to two of them.

FIWI just did all this with the engine out of the car and the axles/hubs still attached. Only thing that was a PITA was the ball joints.

If you place a bar on the lug studs you can get the axle nut off easily with an air wrench.