Replacement Wheel Studs

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

RI-SHO

B to the BANNED
Joined
Feb 3, 2001
Messages
1,485
Reaction score
1
Location
Pawt., RI
What do you guys use as replacement when you brake wheel stud.

I went to a local tire shop and to make a long story short they over TQed one stud and it ended up snapping.

Now i'm thinking ok there just old original studs that broke, and I go to buy one at AutoZone/Pep Boys/Ford Dealer and no one has one. Autozone and Pep Boys both have the right thread pitch/length but the end part is too thick compared to my OEM broken one.

Now the Ford dealer tells me the SHO has the same p/n as a 95 Windstar so I call around for this and it is still the thicker wheel stud not the same as the one on my SHO.

Now where do I go to buy this? Ford has it wrong, and no one else has the one.
 

olympic

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2000
Messages
1,471
Reaction score
2
Location
Saskatchewan, Canada
Get a junkyard hub, then you'll have 4 spares! thumbs_u Seriously though, I can't believe Ford didn't have one. It's a Taurus for crying out loud! There are several million of these things on the streets all needing parts at one time or another.
 

LaTechSHO

New Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2002
Messages
546
Reaction score
1
Location
Louisiana
Dorman numbers are as follows


90-92 - 610-306
93-95 - 610-365

those are front studs

rear 93-95 - 610-376

i forgot to get the number for the rear of the 90-92
 

Joe RedCloud

New Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2003
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Location
Chadron, NE
I've had some experiences with over torq but the NAPA guy always had the parts I needed. It took him a while to locate them but he had 'em. If your local NAPA guy says he doesn't have 'em, he's just not looking. I'm all the way out in western nebraska so your guy really doesn't have an excuse. Good luck.
 

RI-SHO

B to the BANNED
Joined
Feb 3, 2001
Messages
1,485
Reaction score
1
Location
Pawt., RI
philallemang:
Ri-Sho, email me your address and i will send you one free!!! I know i have a few setting around.
That offer still up in the air?
 

Shoaz

Studly dood
Joined
Mar 25, 2003
Messages
4,637
Reaction score
593
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
I just replaced a couple front wheel studs myself. NAPA had replacements for a couple of bucks each, so I bought several.

Lug nuts are a different problem, I'm having trouble finding some. NAPA had some selections, but none were really the same thing.

Cheers.
 

NA SHO kid

Got traction?
Joined
Jan 2, 2003
Messages
313
Reaction score
1
Location
North Attleboro, MA
my friend just got 2 at autozone on rt1 in north attleboro 2 weeks ago. they should still have some left if they dont they can usualy get one for you within a day or two
 

RI-SHO

B to the BANNED
Joined
Feb 3, 2001
Messages
1,485
Reaction score
1
Location
Pawt., RI
Ok I believe I have found the right stud, any write-ups on how to replace them? Do I need a rent-a-tool from AZ or does the hub need to come out etc?
 

Shoaz

Studly dood
Joined
Mar 25, 2003
Messages
4,637
Reaction score
593
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
They're fairly straightforward to change, although your mileage may vary, of course.

With the car on stands and the wheel off, get yourself and a light source on the inside of the wheel so that you can see the backside of the studs. You'll notice that there are a few places where the wheel can be rotated to a position where there's enough clearance that the stud can be pushed out the back without hitting anything. On my car (a 95) the edge of the caliper toward the rear of the car was convenient.

Depending on how much of the old stud is left and how badly it's stuck, you may not need to remove the brake rotor. A good steel punch and a heavy mallet can be used to push the stud out the back of the hub. On my car I removed the brake rotor (you have to remove the caliper and caliper bracket) to get a better shot at the stud without damaging anything else.

One of mine was fairly stubborn and I used a propane torch to heat the hub around the stud. It didn't take much in my case, and take care to heat the hub on either side of the stud and not the stud itself. Also be careful to not get too much heat in the hub itself. The idea is just to expand the metal around the stud enough to free it up better.

After I did this it only took a couple of light smacks with the mallet and it came right out. The second one didn't even need to be heated: smacked it with the mallet and it popped out.

Use a lug nut to pull the new stud into the hub. I bought a funky little short lug nut at NAPA that doesn't have the ****** that the regular nuts have. This allowed me to turn it backwards so that the flat face of the nut was against the brake rotor. I also put a washer between the nut and the rotor to keep from galling the rotor with the nut. Be very careful to make sure the stud has been drawn all the way into the hub. You can inspect this from behind to make sure the stud is flush against the hub.

Hope that helps. Best of luck with this.

Cheers.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,093
Messages
1,181,338
Members
16,157
Latest member
poffffd

Members online

Back
Top