Replaced Front Lower Control Arms

[dstig1]

Just finished doing the LCAs myself. I will also add my thanks, Scott, for a nice write-up. I've had this all apart before, so I wasn't expecting many issues, but I ran into a couple problem spots. First, Scott, your point #7 is not optional:

Optionally remove top or bottom sway bar link nut for clearance.

I got the pinch bolt, the LCA-subframe bolt loose, and eventually - with 10 min or so on the impact wrench - got the aft tension strut nut off. Unfortunately, I am not in Texas so rust is a big issue. Anyways, the LCA end at the subframe would not clear the lower sway bar link. I still have the original steel/iron ones, and the stud at the ends sticks way out and wouldn't let the LCA past. Once I removed the upper sway bar link (remember to do both sides or you won't be able to move the sway bar!), then it was easy to get the LCA out by pushing the sway bar out of the way. Last time I had this apart in a major way was a few years back when I did 96 brakes and Konis, so it was FULLY apart. That may explain why I wasn't expecting the interference with the sway bar link.

I had no trouble reassembling the drivers side, but the passenger side I had trouble getting the LCA-subframe end into the bracket. The bushing was slightly larger than the opening. Enough pounding and prying made it fit. Dunno why it wasn't fitting. I wish I had read the installation part of your write-up as I had big trouble getting the LCA-subframe bolt back in. Eventually forced it, but it was painful. Had I torqued the tension strut nut first, it might have helped a lot. Note that Helms doesn't give you that tip - they tell you to put the LCA-subframe bolt in first.

Ah well, it's all back together and working fine.

Has anybody ever figured out an easy way to get the ball joint out of the knuckle? My best shot at it is a 2-step: 1. take small pry bar and push the ball joint down by levering against the hub or whatever that part is right above the ball joint. Doesn't take much force, so I don't worry about it. This gets it flush with the top of the knuckle's ball joint opening. 2. Get the big-honkin' 3' pry bar and vainly attempt to free the ball joint the rest of the way. The best angle seems to be starting from the front of the wheel, slide the pry bar over the LCA right near the ball joint aiming almost straight back of the car. Then pry against the sheet metal lip at the bottom rear of the wheel well (underbody). Eventually it just decides to pop loose for no apparent reason. No matter how many time you try the same thing, all of a sudden it comes free on one try that was no different than the previous ones. Any tips? Maybe I just need a bigger pry bar.

-Dave
'92 5spd, 140k (Minne-sconsin miles...)

 

[oh_SHO]

Slighty off topic but Eastwood sells a good chasis black paint. I used it on some of the head light assembly on my Cougar and it seems to hold up pretty well...

Since the suspension parts on my Mom's SHO got trashed in the accident my Father and I decieded to replace most of the bushings. What are everyone's feelings on going with stock replacment types versus TPR? Think it is worth the extra $$ or since the car is a cruiser the extra $$ isn't needed? The only time the car gets 'driven' is when I take it and merging...

BTW nice directions Scott. I will keep them handy when we get the parts and start reassembing her car.

 

[shojuan]

Just finished doing the LCAs myself. I will also add my thanks, Scott, for a nice write-up. I've had this all apart before, so I wasn't expecting many issues, but I ran into a couple problem spots. First, Scott, your point #7 is not optional:

Optionally remove top or bottom sway bar link nut for clearance.

I had my driver's side lower control arm completely off a little over a month ago. I didn't have to remove any sway bar link nuts. In fact I don't even recall the swaybar link being in my way. Optional for some, not for others?

Has anybody ever figured out an easy way to get the ball joint out of the knuckle?

I never have problems using a big long steel rod (about 3' long) for a prybar. The right sized end puller can be used and would actually be the preferable tool as long as you can fit the grabbing ears on there without damaging the balljoint dust boot. A BFH should be the last choice. I wouldn't want to use one if I wasn't replacing my arms or planning on replacing them. I can see using the hammer if the arms are so old and worn that I just don't respect them anymore. AND figure I'll get around to replacing them eventually. That must be what's going through Rob's head.

A light coating of grease on those LCA studs and they'll pop out easier next time. They did for me at least.

 

[dstig1]

Ball joint: I've never felt you could get any sort of a puller in there as there just isn't much space between the ball joint and the hub (or whatever it is) right above it.

In any case, it doesn't appear to be a rust issue for me. Like I said, I can always pop it free initially with little effort but actually getting it al the way out seems to require ritual sacfrices or something. I stick a small prybar in above the ball joint tip and <toink> it pops loose with almost no effort. Getting it to actually come all the way our of the knuckle, is however, a major struggle. I'll pull and pry at it the same couple of ways a dozen times (there's only so many directions you can attack it from), and suddenly it just pops free for no apparent reason after one try (same as the other tries). Keep in mind I've pulled a ball joint out of the knuckle probably 12+ times on this car (indiviudally, per side) over the 12 years I have owned it, so I'm not exactly new to this, but yet it is never easy or predictable. About the only thing I have tried that seems to help a bit is to loosen the LCA to subframe nut a bit. I know it is a "bad thing" as the nut is one of Ford's crimped locking nuts, but I've done it nonetheless. Seems the extra freedom in the pivot helps. I don't see hammering as helping, and wouldn't recommend it, as it isn't frozen, it just won't pull all the way out.

I watched a mechanic in Mike Courtney's SHO garage (Minneapolis) take a 6'+ pry bar to a stubborn ball joint and you'd swear the bar was going to snap before that damn joint pulled free - again it was not frozen in with rust, just wouldn't come all the way out.

Just pondering lifes (ball joint) inequities and wondering if someone found the Philosopher's Stone of changing "ball joint in knuckle" to "free".

And on the sway bar end link - there was NO WAY that thing was coming out without getting the sway bar out of the way. Trust me. Again, I have the original forged sway bar links, which may make a difference. Never really seen the plastic ones up close. You may be right - if it is in the way for you, then you need to free up the sway bar. Others may not have an issue. My SHO experience is heavily limited to "my car".

Party on!

-Dave

'92 5 spd with some mods
Turned 140k!!!

 

[rangerj]

To get the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle try this.

After the pinch bolt has been removed place a small bottle jack on the LCA where it connects to the stabilizer(Strut). Place the jack cylinder "ram" (the top end) on the inner fender well lip. Use a small piece of wood to protect the LCA and the inner fender well lip.

As you pump up the jack the LCA is pushed downward and the ball joint stud is extracted from the steering knuckle. When the stud clears the steering knuckle pull the strut away and release the pressure in the jack and get it out of your way. When you are ready to reinstall the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle do the same thing, i.e. use the jack to press down on the LCA and then line up the stud and release the jack pressure (slowly).

You will find that this method does not take as much effort and is less likely to result in damage to the ball joint boot. rangerj
PS What's a "ROBOT"?

 

[qiksho]

I did something today that I now wish I had done a long time ago. The changes in the driving feel as a result of replacing the lower control arms (LCA) and strut rod bushings far exceeded any expectations I may have had. The bushings on the old LCAs and strut rods just did not look that bad. Apparently they were.

The SHO has a newfound sense of straight ahead and a great deal more on-center feel. The car no longer lunges as it crosses lane separations. It no longer bangs over sharp bumps in the road. The play in the steering wheel decreased by more than 50%. Driving my SHO didn't exactly feel bad before the upgrade, but it feels much better afterward. A significant change.

The parts I used were all Moog pieces that I purchased through a local O'Reilly Auto Parts versus the less expensive RockAuto.com. The prices were about $9.00 more per LCA and about $3.00 more for the strut rod bushings, but I wanted the convenience of the fast, local pickup and the lifetime warranty on the LCAs. I needed them for installation this weekend.

I also ordered front and rear sway bar frame bushings and I wanted to see the parts before I bought them. Both sets were a hard, blue thermoplastic resin and I deemed them good enough for the $12 and $16 additions. I previously had red TPR bushings front and rear. but they have worn a bit and were a maintenance issue with groaning when they dried out. Anti seize grease did tend to keep them quiet for a long time though.

The parts that were purchased to refresh the suspension were as follows:

1. Lower control arm, SHO specific, front, left, included strut rod bushing, new frame attachment bolt and nut, new strut rod nut, new knuckle pinch bolt and nut, grease fitting and an instruction sheet, Moog K8577, $67.99 (RockAuto.com $58.79)

2. Lower control arm, SHO specific, front, right, included strut rod bushing, new frame attachment bolt and nut, new strut rod nut, new knuckle pinch bolt and nut, grease fitting and an instruction sheet, Moog K8579, $67.99 (RockAuto.com $58.79)

3. Strut rod bushing set, strut rod to subframe, red thermoplastic on bushing aft of frame, black rubber on front (same as OEM), 2 sets, Moog K8516, $23.99 (RockAuto.com $20.79)

4. Sway bar to frame bushing set, front, 24mm bar, blue thermoplastic, 2 each, Moog K80018, $11.49 (NOTE: Not yet installed - ran out of time)

5. Sway bar to frame bushing set, rear, 26mm bar, blue thermoplastic, 2 each, Moog K8761, $15.99 (RockAuto.com $13.08)

The job was fairly straightforward and took about 1.25 hours per side. The instruction sheet that came with the LCAs was helpful and provided the torque range for reinstalling all of the bolting. Thanks Moog.

Sdpatt do the Moog LCA's you have listed have the balljoint integrated in them too? I am in need of a drivers side balljoint and since I can't find the balljoint seperate and my LCA bushings are shot anyway if I should just get this unit??

Thanks,
Brandyn

 

[rangerj]

Replacement LCAs come with the ball joint and the inner bushings. Aftermarket LCAs are made by MOOG, Dana, and TRW (TRWs aftermarket car parts are owned by someone else now but I do not remember who bought them).

Make sure you get aftermarket LCAs with a greasable ball joint, and you should replace both sides at the same time. The stabilizer bar bushings should also be replaced. The LCAs are SHO specific and are thicker and heavier than regular Taurus/Sable LCAs. Compare what you have to what you buy to be sure that you get LCAs for a SHO.

Note that the pinch bolt and nut, the axel nut, and the stabilizer bar nut are "lock" type nuts and should be replaced. An alignment should also be done whenever ball joints are replaced. Closely inspect any nuts and/or bolts for damage due to corrosion and/or hard driving. Replace any questionable fasteners.

Torque all fasteners to the specified amount. It would also be a good time to replace the cotter pin in the tie-rod end if it is rusted.

Scott, do you want to add anything?
rangerj

 

[Lance Cheney]

Replacement LCAs come with the ball joint and the inner bushings. Aftermarket LCAs are made by MOOG, Dana, and TRW (TRWs aftermarket car parts are owned by someone else now but I do not remember who bought them).

Make sure you get aftermarket LCAs with a greasable ball joint, and you should replace both sides at the same time. The stabilizer bar bushings should also be replaced. The LCAs are SHO specific and are thicker and heavier than regular Taurus/Sable LCAs. Compare what you have to what you buy to be sure that you get LCAs for a SHO.

Parts-America sells Sho-specific McQuay-Norris arms for a decent price.

I should note that after comparing the Ford, Moog, and McQuay-Norris parts side-by-side, the McQuay ones are significantly (20-30% cross-sectional area in the weakest areas) bigger than either the Moog or Ford SHO-specific parts. And those are a good 50% bigger already than a stock SLO Taurus part.

Not that I think it would matter for most cars (happens to be a little extra insurance for one that sees track use though)

-Lance

 

[SHOMurph]

Just had Texan Tony replace mine on ThunderSHO.

WOW....I would say these are very important to change especially if you do any track driving or hard twisties.

With new front wheel bearings and LCAs ThunderSHO handles tight as a _____________ (insert your own punchline here.)