jmpSHO
SHO Member
I have a 94 SHO ATX and I was wondering if I bought a FORD unlock/lock remote could it be programmed to work with my car. This car doesn't have the keyless entry option which is my reason for asking.
remote unlock/lock question.
- Thread starter jmpSHO
- Start date
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Looked into this a bit back when I found that my car had some sort of Ford keyless.
Pop the trunk, and look on the drivers side, between the wheel well and seat, mounted against the rear support of the rear seat. If there is a nice, large box mounted there with 20+ wires running in and out of it (not the amp lol), then a keyless remote for any 95 Ford should work.
The programming pin is right by the Fuel Inertia cutoff switch (drivers side trunk, in front of the wheel well). It looks like an area that a fuse might go.
You can plug something metal in there, like a screw driver, and program it that way.
But, going back to the box mounted on the back seat support. If there is a smaller box, with about 5 - 9 wires, then there isn't a factory keyless installed.
But, if yours is like mine, it might have a Ford Dealer Installed keyless system. They usually mount this under the dash, right on the firewall on the drivers side.
Easy to check for this, you can either look under there with a flash light, or pull the rocker panel trim off in the drivers side door and look for the wires. If they are spliced together, then follow those.
If not, just go by one. I have a Viper 150 ESP keyless with remote start.
Kind of a pain, with all the relays that have to be wired in for the reverse polarity locking system, but it works.
Pop the trunk, and look on the drivers side, between the wheel well and seat, mounted against the rear support of the rear seat. If there is a nice, large box mounted there with 20+ wires running in and out of it (not the amp lol), then a keyless remote for any 95 Ford should work.
The programming pin is right by the Fuel Inertia cutoff switch (drivers side trunk, in front of the wheel well). It looks like an area that a fuse might go.
You can plug something metal in there, like a screw driver, and program it that way.
But, going back to the box mounted on the back seat support. If there is a smaller box, with about 5 - 9 wires, then there isn't a factory keyless installed.
But, if yours is like mine, it might have a Ford Dealer Installed keyless system. They usually mount this under the dash, right on the firewall on the drivers side.
Easy to check for this, you can either look under there with a flash light, or pull the rocker panel trim off in the drivers side door and look for the wires. If they are spliced together, then follow those.
If not, just go by one. I have a Viper 150 ESP keyless with remote start.
Kind of a pain, with all the relays that have to be wired in for the reverse polarity locking system, but it works.
jmpSHO
SHO Member
I checked the trunk when i first bought it and noticed that the black box wasn't there. If it has a Ford dealer installed keyless system will the Ford remotes work? I'm going to look under the dash tomorrow to check. I know it has something installed because I have a little black button on the driver kick panel and a red flashing light on my dash. I also have to push the button to start the car.
RickieFrat
La Cosa Nostra
I'm going to say no. Simply because Ford's under the dash is an actual alarm system. I had one in my thunderbird that looked like this ...
What you have installed is a aftermarket "budget minded" alarm that requires no remotes but a button that has to be pushed which closes a relay to allow you to start the car.
Now thanks to Ford for pre-wiring all cars - if you have the wires in your truck just plug this in .......
And get some remotes. Keep in mind that the module can be cross referenced with alot of different Ford and Lincoln cars. You don't need a key pad for this to work. My module from my old SHO is in my Mustang and works great.
If your box looks like the one that RickieFrat posted, then that's the fun Dealer installed one that I had in my car.
Good luck finding a remote. I couldn't find it anywhere. Even went to Ford with the box, and they didn't have anything.
Maybe go junk yard shopping, see if you can find one there. If not, then just go get a new system and re-wire the Ford Module.
Good luck finding a remote. I couldn't find it anywhere. Even went to Ford with the box, and they didn't have anything.
Maybe go junk yard shopping, see if you can find one there. If not, then just go get a new system and re-wire the Ford Module.
jmpSHO
SHO Member
I checked my trunk and there is a black box but it is much smaller than in the post above. It is in the same location though. I was going to take the box from my 95 SHO but the plugs are different unless the plugs are hidden in the trunk some where. I am just trying to avoid spending money on an alarm if I dont need to, I just want to be able to unlock the doors without the key.
RickieFrat
La Cosa Nostra
When all else fails - EBAY !!!!!
The wires should be there because Ford has ALL the cars pre-wired. It might be shoved inside the rear quarter. Keep looking.
jmpSHO
SHO Member
Yess.
jmpSHO
SHO Member
I wanted to crawl in the trunk today but my girlfriend was watching and I think she was waiting for me to get in to lock me in and try to **** me.
RickieFrat
La Cosa Nostra
Is there an antenna lead going into it kinda like the one pictured above???
jmpSHO
SHO Member
No....
RickieFrat
La Cosa Nostra
I wanted to crawl in the trunk today but my girlfriend was watching and I think she was waiting for me to get in to lock me in and try to **** me.
You can't get locked in if you have the auto trunk release in there.
Maybe today you can get a better idea of the wires and try to post some pics.
Ok
If your box in the trunk looks like this
then there is no need to look any further. I have torn my entire trunk apart, that's the only wires you'll see for it, so no need to go searching for another harness.
If this is on a window, then:
Look above here. Pull the fuse box down, and stick your head under there.
Right around these red wires, you'll see a box zip-tied somewhere near the firewall, should look similar to this:
with wires running into it.
If you don't want to stick a ton of money into an alarm, or remote keyless, do what I did and go junk yard shopping. I got 2 keyless systems, both with alarms and remote start, and remotes for $10 a piece at a Pick-Your-Own parts junk yard.
If your box in the trunk looks like this
then there is no need to look any further. I have torn my entire trunk apart, that's the only wires you'll see for it, so no need to go searching for another harness.
If this is on a window, then:
Look above here. Pull the fuse box down, and stick your head under there.
Right around these red wires, you'll see a box zip-tied somewhere near the firewall, should look similar to this:
If you don't want to stick a ton of money into an alarm, or remote keyless, do what I did and go junk yard shopping. I got 2 keyless systems, both with alarms and remote start, and remotes for $10 a piece at a Pick-Your-Own parts junk yard.
jmpSHO
SHO Member
Ok
If your box in the trunk looks like this
then there is no need to look any further. I have torn my entire trunk apart, that's the only wires you'll see for it, so no need to go searching for another harness.
If this is on a window, then:
Look above here. Pull the fuse box down, and stick your head under there.
Right around these red wires, you'll see a box zip-tied somewhere near the firewall, should look similar to this:
with wires running into it.
If you don't want to stick a ton of money into an alarm, or remote keyless, do what I did and go junk yard shopping. I got 2 keyless systems, both with alarms and remote start, and remotes for $10 a piece at a Pick-Your-Own parts junk yard.
Thanks for the pics, everything in your pics is the same as my car. So how did you getb the alarms to work with your vehicle?
jmpSHO
SHO Member
Actually that sticker isn't on my window.
Well, if everything else is the same, I wouldn't worry about the sticker. Could have come off years ago, window may have been replaced ... who knows lol
I got mine working by putting a new system in it's place. The nice part about the dealer installed units are they have the wiring schematics on the back of the control box. It tells you what every wire does, so you don't have to guess.
If you want to bypass the starter immobilizer until you replace the unit (so you don't have to constantly press the valet switch every time you want to start the car), look on the control box. There is a really big wiring harness, then a 2 pin adapter towards the middle of that box. The wires should both be red. That's the ignition wire. If you jumper that wire together, it will bypass the immobilizer and allow you to start the car with just the key, no valet switch needed.
I just replaced mine with the Viper 150 ES, because I couldn't find a remote locally, and was too impatient to go looking on eBay. Especially seeing how I didn't have a clue what the remote looked like.
If you do replace the unit, just remember that Ford has the reverse polarity locking system, so unless you get the adapter, you will need to wire in 5-post relays (30 85 86 87 87a)
http://www.p71interceptor.com/remotestart/
Found this website, which actually worked pretty well for the locks.
Also, here is a wiring diagram for the reverse polarity relays
http://www.joe-skelly.com/sho/reversepolaritylocks.pdf
There is some wiring needed for the trunk release, probably by relays as well. If you get a remote starter unit, you need to run a wire from the coil pack thru the firewall so it can read the Tach.
I got mine working by putting a new system in it's place. The nice part about the dealer installed units are they have the wiring schematics on the back of the control box. It tells you what every wire does, so you don't have to guess.
If you want to bypass the starter immobilizer until you replace the unit (so you don't have to constantly press the valet switch every time you want to start the car), look on the control box. There is a really big wiring harness, then a 2 pin adapter towards the middle of that box. The wires should both be red. That's the ignition wire. If you jumper that wire together, it will bypass the immobilizer and allow you to start the car with just the key, no valet switch needed.
I just replaced mine with the Viper 150 ES, because I couldn't find a remote locally, and was too impatient to go looking on eBay. Especially seeing how I didn't have a clue what the remote looked like.
If you do replace the unit, just remember that Ford has the reverse polarity locking system, so unless you get the adapter, you will need to wire in 5-post relays (30 85 86 87 87a)
http://www.p71interceptor.com/remotestart/
Found this website, which actually worked pretty well for the locks.
Also, here is a wiring diagram for the reverse polarity relays
http://www.joe-skelly.com/sho/reversepolaritylocks.pdf
There is some wiring needed for the trunk release, probably by relays as well. If you get a remote starter unit, you need to run a wire from the coil pack thru the firewall so it can read the Tach.
IM Buddy8
Active Member
I wanted to crawl in the trunk today but my girlfriend was watching and I think she was waiting for me to get in to lock me in and try to **** me.
If the safety thing wasn't glowing anymore due to age you could just take your keys out and hit your remote entry to pop trunk DUH!
jmpSHO
SHO Member
2 things - safety pulls weren't standard equipment on our model SHO's, and the whole purpose of this post is about the fact that he doesn't have the remote ... so it wouldn't do him a lot of a good.
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