rear brakes

[ericwick19]

Ive never changed the rear pads on the SHO yet so my question is this, i know that after the caliper is removed from the anchor plate the piston has to be turned into the caliper bore, does this requir a special tool? or can i just use a pair of large needle nose pliers or similar tool? Also, how is the parking brake cable attached?

 

[AutoXSHO]

Yes, you'll need the tool. There is a special tool for the job, and there are generic ones. The generic spinner blocks work okay, but they don't quite fit the Ford caliper perfectly.

Go get the tool for Ford discs at Napa, you will be happy.

The parking brake is fed through the bottom of the caliper and secured with a C-clip. The cable actuates the brake via a cam and a return spring.

John V

 

[jcostantino]

Yeah, don't be stupid like me and turn the pistons back in with a pair of channel locks because I didn't know there was a special tool

On the bright side, everyone ****** and moans about the ebrake cable connection but it wasn't a problem for me.

Jeff

 

[bigsho]

I would go buy the tool. You might be able to use a C-clamp. I did and got the piston pushed back just enough to get it back on. It was a pain.

 

[jcostantino]

C-clamp is ONLY for the front brakes. The rear brakes have to be screwed back into the caliper because the piston self-adjusts by "unscrewing" itself.

Jeff

 

[sdpatt]

I use a screwdriver to rotate the parking brake lever to put slack in the cable. The cable end can then be slipped out. You may have to reposition the screwdriver when you see how the cable needs to move. There is a C-clip that hold the parking brake cable to the caliper. Unclip it (don't lose it) and slide the cable out of the hole in the caliper.

Most of the pistons I have turned have taken a large amount of effort to rotate. The tool is essential.

 

[stevetatro]

I mentioned this as part of another thread, but I'll say here, too. I had excellent luck turning rear caliper pistons with almost no effort once I removed the master cylinder cap. It seems relieving pressure on the system (or something) lets the piston retract very nicely.

Oh, and there's absolutely, positively no good reason to use a c-clamp on the rears. If you do somehow get the piston to retract by just using a c-clamp (even one with a spinning "foot") you've probably screwed up your caliper.

Later.